I have to make some simple cabinet doors, standard rail-and-stile. I’m trying to decide between buying a biscuit joiner kit (Ryobi for $99), or a Kreg Pocket screw kit for $80 (although I’ll need a box of screws, too for $16).
I’m seeking opinions on which is the more useful tool to have for general remodeling. I’m leaning toword the Kreg simply because I’m running out of space for tools, and biscuit joiners are big.
Thanks
Learn how the pros keep their hand tools sharp without breaking the bank.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
For simple cabinet doors I'd use a router table with a tonge and groove bit set or cope and stick set. Wth biscuits or pocket holes you are still going to have to cut a groove for the panel.
Ditto what PPG said. Cope and stick bit set.
Otherwise mortise and tongue.
Pocket screws could be used if your going to add a 1/4" panel to the back covering the holes. But this gives you a door that's 1" thick. This isn't an issue depending on the look your going for.
I think you meant to address that to the OP.
Thanks for the replies- I guess I should have given more info- the cab. doors will be painted, and only require a rabbet, for shoji screen like panels.Don't care if the pocket holes are visible on the rear of the doors (filled and painted is fine).Aside from these doors, which tool do you think is more generally useful?Thanksps- I know I misspelled "biscuits" in the header- apparently this can't be edited.
Edited 5/24/2007 3:30 pm ET by PGproject
If the doors are going to have a square profile on the interior edge along the panel you can also make a mortise and tenon joint with the groove for a panel on a table saw pretty easily.
It's essentially a cope and stick profile/joint with out using a router.
You'll need a decent table saw and if there are a lot of doors a dado set would be handy but not really necessary.
First off, I'm not disagreeing with the others about about using a router table or using toungue and groove. Both are the best way to complete a door.
That being said, of the two you mention, I would go with biscuits. Short learning curve, doors will be strong enough for general use, no holes to fill when you're done, cheap equipment to buy. Whatever you go with, make sure you have some good clamps to hold it together. I've made at least 40 doors with biscuits and not one of them has failed yet (knocking on wood as I type).
“The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..†– Hume
I thought one of the advantages of the Pocket screws was no clamps. This is a BIG advantage, no? being able to handle them right away sure would save a lot of time.
I can't belive nobody has recommended the Domino yet! It is only like $700 It is actually a great tool but probably more than you need.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28038
But seriously if you wan't to do it quick and dirty then go with the Kreg. The Ryobi is a waste of $ IMO. And biscuits wont give you a very durable joint for that application.
I've got a biscuit joiner and a kreg jig. Since I got the kreg I havent looked back.
half lap.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
order of preference
1 router cope and stick
2 mortise and tenon
3 kreg or half lap (tie)
4 biscuits
5 butt
6 order from a door shop
Jeff,Excellent answer!http://joes-stuff1960.blogspot.com/
half lap is what I usually end up with on quick site build-in's and such ...
usually the table saw is already there set up ...
and if not ... it's right inside the truck door ... so it's usually the path of least resistance ... cut the slots ... cut the laps ...
glue and tack.
done.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It all depends if theyre paint grade Ive been known to pocket hole them .fill the holes and paint.
but for me other than pocket holing in that circumstance..mached rail/stile bitdowledtongue and grove using the table saw.I dont usually use biskets I got the type 1 PC jpinter ..its a good one before dewalt sued them for stealing their fence design
But I just dont use biskets very much                  "We fight not to enslave ,but to set free"Thomas Paine
Edited 5/24/2007 11:41 pm by Sancho
don't tell no one ...
but last set of doors I made ...
little guys ...
were butt joined ... glued ... and shot down thru with the finish gun.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Of the two you mentioned, I think the pocket screw jig is the most useful. You can use it for other items after you've finished the doors. Joining rails and stiles with biscuits doesn't make for strong joint, that is the reason so many folks are suggesting alternatives.
Thanks- this is the way I was leaning, so now that I have the answer I wanted, I'm happy: )Bill
I would go with some kind of stick and cope or mortise/tennon or maybe even half lap as my first choices.
Having said that, it's your project and you have it laid out to your satisfaction already.
My only caution would be about the Ryobi. The lowest quality plate joiner I would spend money on would be a Dewalt (maybe $160 if you shop hard). The difference in quality will make you wonder why Ryobi even bothers.
Who fixed the header? I had mispelled "Biscuits" in my original post's header- now it's fixed- Whodunnit and how?Bill
dude, I use both and it depends on your skill level. Pocket is pretty close to fool proof. (unless you is a fool. lol) Biscuits require a certain amount of attention to detail. If you dont have the time or inclination to learn that stick with the Kreg. I like it and make my own dowel filler for the holes, however kreg sells that too.
-worth exactly 2 cents!
What is your set up to make the plugs from dowels? Side note: saw a tip regarding the Kreg plugs. They stand a bit proud when shoved into the hole. Move the stop collar up the bit about an 1/8" so the hole is a bit deeper. Thus letting the screw sit deeper and allowing the plug sit flush. I wouldn't do it on 1/2 material though.Another little tip: the Mini Kreg Jig (little single hole thing) has a recess on the bottom that facilitates setting the plugs. Works pretty well.TFB (Bill)
I have the bosch flush cut saw. I put the dowel in the hole and cut it flushish and sand. I like the colored plugs kreg sells.-worth exactly 2 cents!
Seems easy enough and cheap too.Thanks
TFB (Bill)
I kind of go back and forth between them. I like the speed of the Kreg, but hate the "gouge" in the back.
I have done several kitchens with this door detail; maple sticks and walnut scrap. I like it because it's just one setup on the table saw for all the slots - maybe a bevel on the rails for pretty. I register off the front of all pieces, and use the 1/8" stiff blade from my dado stack. Hollow-chisel mortiser for the false peg.
View Image
Forrest
Edited 5/25/2007 6:11 am by McDesign
Put that over in FWW.
Let the flogging begin... ;-)
Looks like FWW to me. That group is able to get their collective panties in a bunch over some silly stuff. They currently have an entire thread about someones feeling getting hurt. Guess that's why i hang out over here more.
As to the door, it looks like good, simple design, that would be easy to execute and long lasting.
Looks good to me too. I have made a lot of mirror and picture frames using walnut or paduk splines on maple or oak sticks. Never did any doors. I always have trouble getting splines to a consistent thickness until I made a rig for my DP with a drum sander. No prob now.
The subject doors aside (for which I would probably not use either choice presented), a pocket screw jig would be more useful in "general remodeling", IMHO.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA