Hi.
I’ve got a 12″ Bosch slider. I’m currently using a Freud Ultra fine cutoff blade, but it wobbles or deflects a little and produces a little unevenness in my miters.
I’ve heard others have had a similar problem. I’m tired of messing with it.
What other blades would people recommend?
Thanks.
Use these assembly techniques when installing crown risers and molding to minimize visible gaps and nail holes.
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Replies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YBWB/qid=1153867004/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/104-5512295-3053516?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
The amazon people who wrote in gripe, but I think they're a minority. My absolute favorite, smoothest blades.
"Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton
it says it is not currently available."The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a governmental program" -Ronald Reagan
maybe not from amazon but it is lots of other places . . ."Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton
got it. Just was responding to the link...that's all."The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a governmental program" -Ronald Reagan
Whatever you get, make sure the teeth have a negative hook angle. Five degree is the most common. For stability, you'll want a thicker sawblade than a thin-kerf.
Amana, CMT, and Forrest are all good blades, with the Forrest the highest cost one.
The gold colored Rigid line is really nice. I've got the 10" on my CMS. They are made by freud and you can get them at HD.
Get a blade stabilizer or a thicker blade. I use Forrest Woodmaster series
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
You find they're really worth the extra bucks, huh? I've been looking at those blades for what seems like 5 years now but always talk myself out of it.View Image
" I've been looking at those blades for what seems like 5 years now but always talk myself out of it."
Stop doing that. You never get what you wanted....then what? Regret? Your dying breath is "Wish I had gotten the (fill in the blank). Ahhh..."
Forrest Chopmaster. Just do it.
lol... if my only regret in life is not buying a better saw blade then I guess I will have done pretty dang good. Next time I need one, I'll do the deed and take yous up on it though.View Image
Well, I thought about the Forrest blades, but I'm in Western Canada and nobody stocks it locally. I could've ordered one but wanted to buy local.
I got the CMT Miter and Radial Arm Saw blade. I hope it works better for me.
Bye Bye Freud.
I'm in Western Canada and nobody stocks it locally.
Try Lee Valley. Canadian local, anyway.View Image
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I look at it like this -
I'd pay 85-90 at the local yards for a frued or simmilar which is not a bad blade, but for a bit over a hundred - I think - I get a blade that does the job better and lasts 20% longer...but now for you - what you use this for? Fascia.I usually put in a cheaper or older re-sharpened blade for framing anyway.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
No, we don't use the slider for framing unless there's a load of exterior trim... crown, dentil, koyne, etc. Sometimes they let me work with the 'little wood' too. :)View Image
Doesn't the stabilizer affect the depth of cut?May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
I like the Diablo blades myself and use them for everything.. framing, trim, and whatever else needs to be cut. I have two or three of the Dewalt blades that are absolute crap.. can't even pawn them off to the help.. I got those with the saws new and didn't even bother putting them on... worst blade ever made in my opinion!
The blades that come with the DW saws are not very good, they are the bottom grade 20 series blades.
On the other hand, DeWalt does make some excellent 60 series blades but they are special order where I'm from. The carbide in the 60 series blades is very hard, I know some hardwood guys who swear by them, but they don't come cheap. Probably a bit too pricey for framing, but if you are cutting hardwood all day, the 60 series are beautiful blades.May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
don't know
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"Doesn't the stabilizer affect the depth of cut?"
Yes, definately does. Around 2" IIRC. I stopped using mine - I couldn't tell the difference with and without using a Forrest Chopmaster 12" - it's a pretty stiff blade.
It seems that through the years whenever FHB or FWW compares saw blades Forrest is always at the top.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VX/sr=1-31/qid=1154200474/ref=sr_1_31/103-9785193-5595812?ie=UTF8&s=hi
BTW, http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/ seems to have REALLY good prices on the blades.
Man, the longer I'm here... the more Kool Aid I swallow.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Edited 8/25/2006 7:15 pm ET by xxPaulCPxx
I only use Forrest blades. Do yourself a favor, spend the extra money and get the Forrest Chopmaster. I've had mine since 2002 and have yet to send it to be sharpened! Just keeping it clean does wonders.
As for the thin-kerf blades: they're a waste of money. 1) the amount of material they save is moot and 2) the thinner blade results in more vibration which means poorer cuts.
just my two cents...
UBC
I've got to put in another vote for the gold ridgid blades. We run two 12" sliders almost every day.
Cuts 5/4 x 8" hickry and maple at a 45° bevel with no burning...great price, and one's never more than 5 miles away<G>
Most of those who are convinced that $140 Forrest blades are better than everything else, will be embarassed if they ever try a Ridgid. They cut as good or better for far less $.I'm with you on recommending Ridgid. I recently did a 4-layer built-up crown job with easily 50 miters...all joints fit perfectly the first time (except the returns that ran into out-of-plumb walls). No putty required at all--polished, perfect cuts.http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Titanium-Coated-Saw-Blades/index.htmhttp://cgi.ebay.com/Ridgid-12in-100T-Ultim-Polished-Finish-Saw-Blade-R12100_W0QQitemZ140012674781QQihZ004QQcategoryZ20797QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I don't know if I ever thanked you for turning me on to them...so, thanks! I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
I'm glad you like them...I couldn't be more impressed.So do you think the $40.00 100-tooth Ti blades on E-bay are hot?How can they do that?
So do you think the $40.00 100-tooth Ti blades on E-bay are hot?Wow, That price makes me hot...got a link? I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
You missed it in my post above, here it is again...pay attention! ; > )http://cgi.ebay.com/Ridgid-12in-100T-Ultim-Polished-Finish-Saw-Blade-R12100_W0QQitemZ140012674781QQihZ004QQcategoryZ20797QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem$35.00 for the blade $13 or $14 for shipping
Edited 8/4/2006 8:37 pm ET by basswood
Thanks for the link (the first one since I was paying attention). I just ordered one.
-Don
Let me know if you like it or if you think I'm full of it. I wish I were getting a commision 8 > {
So I got that 12" 100-tooth Ridgid blade and I am certainly impressed. Nice clean cuts with no noticeable blade deflection. Of course, it does cut a little slower than the 44-tooth Freud Diablo that it replaced, but that's to be expected. The Freud also made very clean cuts (if you made it a point to cut slowly) but it was prone to deflection.
The Ridgid was about $44.00 with shipping. Well worth it. It doesn't seem to be available at that price anymore.
-Don
Glad you like it. I was telling someone about my "gold blade" at the job today. I have a 10" 50 tooth Ridgid ripping blade in my table saw too. Made some "flat crown" with it today.both pics are the same...dern double clickin'
pay attention, yeah right...I need to be hit over the head before anything sinks in, ha, ha, ha...But I am going to get one of those blades, got a link? <G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Go for a walk in the Forrest. It's a religious experiment that works
I have a DeWalt 12" slider and use the Ridgid gold colored blade. 100 tooth. Works great for me in trin carpentry.
Gary Lundgren
General Contractor
Minneapolis MN
http://www.Handy-Werks.com
Mbr: BBB
Gary,Are you going to JLC live in your fine city next month?http://www.jlclive.com/JLCMW06/public/Content.aspx?ID=7051&Nav=1&left=1
Yes, I am.Gary LundgrenGeneral ContractorMinneapolis MNhttp://www.Handy-Werks.comMbr: BBB
I started a thread in the Fest Folder yesterday to see if we could get some BT folks together:77035.1
I'll have to look at it. What are BT folks?Gary LundgrenGeneral ContractorMinneapolis MNhttp://www.Handy-Werks.comMbr: BBB
BT folks=Breaktime people hear on this forum...you, me and all these other yahoos.
OK. I should have figured that one out.Gary LundgrenGeneral ContractorMinneapolis MNhttp://www.Handy-Werks.comMbr: BBB
I am kind of surprised that no one has yet to blame your saw. You should go over to the knots forum to get more opinions. I bought a saw once and out of the box no matter what blade we used and we had all the high end blades it still wobbled. We decided the wobble was in the arbor of the saw. We sent it back. I use the De Walt SCMS
I am a Forrest Chopmaster man myself. I have felt the cuts of many many blades and the Forrest was by far the smoothest. Cut some hardwood with your blade and make a light pass on the end grain with your razor sharp block plane to open up the pores and look. The Forrest blades take the least amount of shaving to remove the tool marks in my experience.