blistering while painting with latex primer?!?!? help please (again)
netrate
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I just don’t get this. I used the CGC drywall compound over a few cracks and spots. One of them I had to level out, so I used about 2 inches on either side of the crack, I let it dry over night, sanded and then used the compound again. Let it dry, sanded and feathered it – and today, I tried painting over it with Latex Primer – and it started to blister! After a few rolls with the roller, the paint started peel away like skin (ew, but it is the only way I can really describe it). I figure it is the compound coming away from the wall with the paint, but the question is why oh why the heck is it doing this?!?!??! It has been drying overnight, so I don’t get it.
Replies
Try This
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Is your primer a no VOC product? I've had a lot of problems with blistering and peeling with them.
Try a shelac primer over the raw mud. The water-based primers soak into the new mud and soften it.
Here is what I am using :
Zinnser Bulls Eye 123 Latex Primer
I thought it might be the CGC drywall compound was too old or something. It was really disheartening. It doesn't really affect small spots, but with larger areas of the drywall filler, it seems to pull apart like a halloween latex or something. I sanded it all down again last night and Iam going to buy some new CGC dry wall filler and see if that helps. If not, I am going to have to try something different.
Keep in mind it takes several days for a thick coat of regular drywall compound to set. Even though it seem dry it may not be fully cured.
You mention sanding between coats of mud, which I NEVER do. I suspect you left dust residue that caused poor bonding
Maybe I will try to vacuum it out completely and let it dry longer next time. Thanks for the tips
Your problem is that you've put the primer on too thick over a non-setting drywall compound - has nothing to do with surface prep and you're area can be bone dry and it will still happen.
What's happening is a layer of primer adds moisture to the joint compound - in thicker patches, or new construction this moisture is not a problem and is simply obsorbed, while a feathered out section over a painted surface doesn't give the moisture anywhere to go so if your primer is too thick you essentially rehydrate the joint compound and your primer blisters every time.
To prevent this roll the primer on in a few very light coats followed by a normal one. The first coat should be so thin that it doesn't fully cover - the second slightly thicker and the final can be a normal coat. There's nothing wrong with this method, it's just slow. For faster patches I use a spray shelac based primer - since it's not water based it doesn't soften the patch.
Thank you again, I will try this tonight.
Let us know how it works out :)
Let us know how it works out :)
Well, it didn't really work, but it seems better than before. I am still getting porous holes in the dry wall compound when I put the primer on - very lightly. I am using a roller, so maybe I should have used a brush instead. I am going to wait for it to dry and then sand down the problem spots and try again. What a world, huh?
If any of the drywall compound is coming off you're using too much primer - as I said when you roll it on it shouldn't even fully cover the area - half the area should remain essentially dry.
I have the feeling we aren't on the same page.
Ok, well I tried using the roller on another part of the wall first so that it wasn't really that much left and then I went over the spot. But maybe I will try it really really dry next time and see what happens.
Like I said, use a shelac-based primer first.
ug!
netrate wrote:
...maybe I will try it really really dry next time and see what happens.
I honestly don't know how I could have said more clearly the importance of the paint being VERY thin - to the point where it doesn't completely cover the surface!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sand using a wet painters rag for a dust free smooth finish.
First, never sand drywall patches. Your just creating unneccesary dust. Take a tip from hospital grade construction and use a damp painters rag to smooth and feather the compound, as well as remove any unneccesary compound. I started out years ago doing warranty work for a retirement community and we had hospital level dust policies. I urge you to try this you will find it works even better for your drywall patch and drywall repairs. I certainly wouldn't use it on a whole room or house, but it's unbeatable for repairs. Takes a bit more elbow grease, but no clean up and it works really great. You might also try a drywall sealer if it's becoming a problem, but I never have a problem with Kilz 2 or sherwin williams Pro-Block. Not too familiar with pro-block but I would stay away from shellac or oil based primers if your going to paint latex on top as a rule. Hope this helps.
Robert Griffin, Owner
Katy Custom Kitchen and Bath
http://katycustom.com
Robert
but I would stay away from shellac or oil based primers if your going to paint latex on top as a rule. Hope this helps.
Why? have a bad experience using the original Kilz? That is unusual, after you get past the noxious fumes, it's the go to primer for stain killing, no matter the covering paints base.
My main bad experiences have come from using the spray can Kilz. I also haven't had any problems using Kilz 2 to cover up stains at all. It might take a coat or 2, but it dries much faster than Kilz so you still come out ahead. I was also always taught by the old painter who taught me so many things that latex just won't ever bond as well (if at all, certainly it will bond to primer) to an oil based product. You can paint oil over latex for days, but I never paint latex over oil. Also why would you ever use oil when you didn't have to?
Robert Griffin, Owner
Katy Custom Kitchen and Bath
http://www.katycustom.com/
A shelac primer like the shelac Kilz is not "oil".
I don't use Kilz, I prefer Kilz 2. I just find it's easier and doesn't produce the shiners that I have seen with the spray can Kilz. The liquid Kilz is fine I just don't have any call for it. We don't have basements in Tx, and I find Kilz 2 does every job I have asked of it and is very easy to use. I'm sure it has many great uses, but again I almost exclusively do kitchens and bathrooms and Kilz 2 works for me.
Robert Griffin, Owner
Katy Custom Kitchen and Bath
http://www.katycustom.com
Here's my hint.
Net-
Hire it out.
This much time, expense and aggravation is going to make an old man (or woman) out of you.
Over the years in the trades I've come to realize on finishing drywall or plaster-some got it and some won't.
Best of luck.
Heh, I see your point, but I started out as a drywall ninja and it's not a bad way to pick up a grand in a couple short days. Use hot mud and a heat gun and you can knock out a $500 patch in 3 hours if you are able to use the can texture (this is a skill all to itself.) Just my $0.02. I would certainly sub out a large job, but quick repairs are easy money. Though I do see what you mean by some have it and some don't. Here in Tx we use a ton of different textures and that can be even harder for many to learn. I often go into a home for a room or two paint job and tell them "I'll fix that old drywall patch over there for you too." They always ask what's wrong with it, and the answer is always the same. You can see it. A good patch is invisible, and in the south that means a great texture match. Although I'm not sure what you mean on the expense, in my experience Drywall is one of the lowest material cost remodels.
Also in response to the above comment, knocking it down and smoothing it out certainly helps a ton, and putting the mud on smooth with a skilled hand helps too. Doing these steps makes the rag finish a breeze. You will also find this works even better when working with 20 minute mud and then going back just before the patch is fully cured. I don't do this alone however because feathering is just so important. It's just too hard to go backwards on a patch. If it's not perfect before texture and paint, It's not going to miraculously get better.
Robert Griffin
Katy Custom Kitchen and Bath
http://www.katycustom.com/
My "point" was .........
That this original poster has been working on this room for quite a while. He's come here to ask about laying on the compound, adhering it to the plaster, etc and the problems he's had as a result. These have been explained in a couple of threads over the last couple weeks.
So, my suggestion is to just take the hit and hire it out-albeit, a bit more of a job now to correct the correction...............
Are you telling me you don't LOVE going behind do-it-yourselfers and doing three times the work? :)
Robert Griffin, Owner
Katy Custom Kitchen and Bath
http://www.katycustom.com
Well............
I know if you call me now I'm happy. Call me to resurrect jesus and I'm not so happy.
No offense to jesus meant or implied.
But believe me, this poor guy has struggled through everything this side of deciding to do something to repair a crack.
Admirable that he wants to try, but probably be better off if he just made the call.