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My 51 year old basement wall is buckling. The wall is 8″ unreinforced concrete masonry 9 blocks high with earth practically up to the top. There are two horizontal cracks about mid-way up and the wall is bowing inward about 2 inches.
I’d like to stabilize the wall without excavation. I am not concerned about the waterproofing at this time. Does anyone have any suggestions along these lines?
Regards,
Eric
Replies
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I know it's a bit late, but my best suggestion is to use concrete block for nothing more complicated than garden edging.
My second best is to get a copy of the most recent edition of Epoxyworks, the house publication of the Gougeon Brothers, manufacturers of the WEST System epoxy products. It has a short piece dealing with this very problem. The author suggested fastening 2x4's vertically to the wall with thickened epoxy. The 2x4's will have dados full length along their centre lines deep enough to insert rebar and epoxy that in place. The rebar is now a tension member suspended an inch or so away from the block wall.
If this sounds interesting to you and you can't find the artical, email me.
Ron
*Also, take a look at this thread: Ann Berg "Foundation badly cracked - HELP!!" 4/10/01 7:41pm
*Hi Eric, Once the structural integrity has been comprimised you have to appreciate that it will only get worse.Your foundation is only 6 feet deep, so it may be feasible to hand excavate the damaged area and do a proper repair.Most damage that you describe is on the driveway side of the house. On some occasions can be caused by frost or a combination of both.Regardless, this is the time to restore as opposed to bandaids.Gabe
*This isn't a cheap fix but you can do it from inside. Stack ICFs on the inside face of the entire wall. You'll have to work with short pieces of rebar and work your way up. Get as close to the underside of the joists as you can and still get a concrete pump hose in. If you have tall joist bays then you should be able to get within 2". Just enough of a 'mudsill'. Install an extra wide mudsill go lock the top of the new wall to the joists.
*Mike, did this guy do something to you in the past that you would want to do harm in this way?You can't be serious.Gabe
*A reinforced concete retaining wall cast inside, assuming it was 6' high, would require at least a 3' wide toe to it to resist turning forces and IMO would cost more than excavating and re-building.It isn't a minor problem.
*Gabe is right about this. There is only one good way and that is too redo. It is the best option. You will thank him later or if you choose another route, I believe you'll regret it later. Your choice though. Just my $.02Billy
*Had a friend who went through this last year. He hired a guy who excavated around the foundation enough so he could push it back into place. On the inside he installed 6" deep "I" beams every 8 ft on center. He chipped away a small hole in the basement slab to fit the "I" beam in place. On the top he notched a 2"x10" into the bottom of the floor joists. Then using the 2"x10" as a base he jacked the top of the beam out until the wall was straightened. He then blocked the top of the beam in place and grouted the bottom. He did this every 8 ft on center. Backfilled around the foundation. He paid about $2000.00. Took him about 4 days start to finish.
*What is this guy's number? I want him working for me. If he can excavate around entire foundation and perform the work stated in four days by himself I want four of him and a good set of golf clubs. I would jack and remove and replace.
*b WBA At Your ServiceRip it out.Shore it, dig it to footer, rip it out, and replace it. Only this time do it right. Vertical rebar drilled into the footer to the top of the wall every 24" to 32" with cores filled with grout or concrete. Allow to cure and carefully backfill. Make sure surface water combined with bad grading wasn't the original cause for this problem. Please. Rip it out.
*I disagree with the "there is one way to do it" type answers.There are a lot of damaged basements in my area because of the soil, and several approaches to repairs. Each situation has a "best" approach, depending on all of the factors.Regardless of the solution you choose, be sure exterior water control is part of it: positive grading around the house and good downspout extensions.
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My 51 year old basement wall is buckling. The wall is 8" unreinforced concrete masonry 9 blocks high with earth practically up to the top. There are two horizontal cracks about mid-way up and the wall is bowing inward about 2 inches.
I'd like to stabilize the wall without excavation. I am not concerned about the waterproofing at this time. Does anyone have any suggestions along these lines?
Regards,
Eric