Replies

1. 
   MSA1 | Dec 05, 2006 03:58am | #1

   I just recently read (dont ask me where cause I cant remember) but the recomendation was solid blocking and to not offset it run it straight across and toenail it in. 

1. 
   cyb | Dec 05, 2006 04:18am | #2

   (dont ask me where cause I cant remember)

   you're kidding right?

1. 
   MSA1 | Dec 05, 2006 07:01am | #6

   Nope! I have a short attention span sometimes. I've been busy lately and I cant remember where I read it.

   I do remember that the solid, non staggered blocking was the preferred method though.

1. 
   Omah | Dec 05, 2006 10:02am | #7

   I would definatly agree with the other guys. Don't touch the job unless your willing to demo out to the joists and start fresh .

1. 
   MSA1 | Dec 06, 2006 03:31am | #15

   You guys are probably right but the question was about which style of of blocking was most effective, not if the joists should be sistered.

   Depending on whats running through the joists, it may not be practical to sister the joists.

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 05, 2006 05:07am | #3

   well, that gives a third of the needed info about what exists currently to be able to give good advice.

   but I'm too tired right now to dream up any bad advice...

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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1. 
   redfox45 | Dec 05, 2006 01:41pm | #8

   whats better bridge blocking or full blocking ?why do you need the span or anything else

1. 
   MikeSmith | Dec 05, 2006 01:46pm | #9

   full blocking is better in terms of adding rigidity... BUT the increase is very small

   it will probably NOT solve  the popping tile problemMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   rez | Dec 05, 2006 06:30pm | #12

   The idea was solving the initial problem of the tiles popping instead of attempting a blanket statement over the pros and cons of various blocking methods.

   Similar to the previous poster's......  

   Before starting this procedure, make sure it wasn't moisture or poor quality adhesive that caused the problem in the first place and not a bouncy floor.

   Read #8 again.

   Cheers

    

    

    

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 05, 2006 10:29pm | #14

   Very well stated! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Dec 05, 2006 10:23pm | #13

   solid blocking does more than bridging is the simple answer for simple situations.but when you have 2x8 floor flraing, it implies that the whole thing is only adequate fro a vinyl floor and no wheres near stiff enough for tile floor, which is why there is a problem.and with that mch of a problem, there is not a blessed thing that solid blocking can do for him. As a matter of fact, odds are good that if he puts them in tight as he should, the pounding and hammering will be enough to break another one or two tiles loose.Sop the simple answer is not the solution to the problem. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   rez | Dec 06, 2006 03:45am | #16

   If you are going to go ahead with the blocking for strength bang them in with such a friction fit it takes a goodly number of wallops to seat them.

   In the BT archive search tab, upper left, you may be able to find various threads on tightening floors.

   One technique several found gainful deals with securing lumber across the bottoms of the floor joists.

   cheers

    

    

3. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 05, 2006 05:21am | #4

   Oh boy, 2x8 joists. I hope they are spanning about 7 feet. Honestly, I wouldn't touch it. Do not tell him you can block the joists and make any improvement.

4. 
   JDRHI | Dec 05, 2006 06:48am | #5

   If you have access to add blocking, I'm thinking (NOT ASSUMING DAMMIT) that you may have access to sister the existing joists.

   I agree with previous poster....blocking isn't going to give you the desired results.

   Oh how they pound, raising the sound,
   o'er hill and dale, telling their tale,

   Gaily they ring while people sing
   songs of good cheer, Christmas is here....
   

5. 
   CarpentrySpecialist | Dec 05, 2006 02:51pm | #10

   I know this one. The solution isn't just one fix but two. I've haven't had a call back on the dozen or so houses I've done this on so far. 

   1. 2x4 spring brace under center of span 2 joist at a time. Not too much pressure or you'll pop more tiles. Just enough to make the 2x4 twang like a loose base string. You're only going for a 1/8" rise or so in the joist.
   2. Rip 1/2" CDX 7" wide.
   3. Install ply on both sides with an aggressive nail pattern.
   4. When notching around wires to get the ply in, cut a filler piece that fits above the wire almost too tight. Use yellow glue. The pressure will hold it till dry. If not, make a new tighter piece.
   5. Install solid blocking between them.
   6. Start in the center and work outward.
   7. When done, go upstairs and reinstall tie.
   8. Before starting this procedure, make sure it wasn't moisture or poor quality adhesive that caused the problem in the first place and not a bouncy floor.
   9. Read #8 again.

   Good luck with it.

    

   Some people say I know too much.

    

6. 
   zift | Dec 05, 2006 04:53pm | #11

   take a look in the current issue of FHB, there's an article on it