Replies

1. 
   piffin_ | Sep 13, 2001 01:39am | #1

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   the only blocking code I'm aware of is for fire blocking if wall is over eight feet. You should ask your inspector about this detail. It's even possible that you are misreading it. Just politely ash for his interpretation.

1. 
   George_Roberts | Sep 13, 2001 01:56am | #2

   *I believe that all free edges need to be "blocked" to some extent.Plywood clips will work. So will 2x stock on edge with nails.

1. 
   d_j_k | Sep 13, 2001 04:05am | #3

   *TJ,Was that a code book or a construction ref book?On 2x6 walls we use 2x4 laying flat to cover those seems, not aware of it being code (though it might be), we do it to help keep the walls flat. If you don't do it you may have one of them edges bow a little and telegraph it on the siding.

1. 
   Thomas_Moen | Sep 13, 2001 08:30am | #4

   *Around here, you need fire blocking every 10 feet, so kill two birds with one stone and use 2x6 on edge for both fire blocking and edge blocking.Tom

1. 
   nathan_wegemer | Sep 13, 2001 11:51pm | #5

   *flat or on edge.. I put them in on edge like Thomas, and use the studs as a guide for the cutting. The end of the blocking stock is bumped against a stud (to the left or right of the saw), held parallel with the top plate, and the next stud is a visual reference for the saw (either the blade or the fence) to make the cut. Slide, bump, visualize, cut, slide, bump, visualize, cut....

2. 
   Steve_G | Sep 18, 2001 01:32am | #6

   *2x4 flat to the sheathing is fine. You shouldn't need any fire blocking in walls that are filled with insulation, but you will need it in your interior walls.steve

3. 
   david_thodal | Sep 19, 2001 11:06pm | #7

   *TJ, Blocking is required for sheathing to provide better shear in seismic and maybe other considerations. Around here city code requires it on all seams of sheathing , 8feet from each corner. I usually use a let-in 1x4, cut in while the wall is still on the ground. I find that is quick and easy. You can use blocking between studs, on edge is fine. Make sure you follow the applicable nailing pattern for your sheathing.Fire blocking in walls is a different creature. It is designed to control air flow in the stud cavity "the chimney effect" and needs to be tight and flat. Different locales sometimes called for blocks at no more than 8feet height, others called for 10feet. I think will platform framing it is superfluous, but in balloon-framed walls it is more important. Cellulose and Air-krete are the only insulations I am aware of that will act as a fire-block in a wall cavity. walk gooddavid

4. 
   Don_Schloeder | Sep 25, 2001 09:02am | #8

   *i JUMPIN' IN HEREIs this also recommended for gyp board?

5. 
   Darrell_Hambley_PE | Sep 25, 2001 08:15pm | #9

   *TJ,If it's designated to be a shear wall on your plans, blocking is required. On edge will solve the 10 ft fire rule. 2x4 flat will be easier to nail (A friend of mine who is an inspector put his blocking in flat for that reason, but it was only 8ft). but you still need to lok at your fire code. DH

2. 
   -TJ | Sep 25, 2001 08:15pm | #10

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   My code book indicates that sheathing that doesn't bear on a plate or header must be blocked. Since I didn't order 12' sheathing & the sheathing is enclosing the rim joist down to the mudsill, I'm a'gonna be putting blocking in almost every stud cavity.

   My question is one of orientation: My walls are 2x6 - do the blocks have to be edge-on 2x6 (e.g. same orientation as the studs), or can they be flat 2x6 or 2x4?

   thanks,
   -TJ