Replies

1. 
   calvin | Apr 22, 2008 03:56am | #1

   You cut the blocks (2x in this case) the length of the space between the studs (just under 16'' or 24'', depending on your centers).  Cut all the blocks. 

   You'll notice the rolled edge on the stud where it turns back on itself. 

   .....we've done a couple things. 

               Cut a shallow groove with a circ saw set high an inch to inch and a qtr from the end.  This will fit in the stud rolled edge.

                Or, snip the edge of the stud's roll-let it flatten out when you screw through the face.

                Or,  Don't worry about the rolled edge.

   You'll start with this end  > ]  Screw through the steel and into the edge of the block.

   Go to the other stud and screw through the face of the metal and into the block.  

   Continue on.

    

   We've done it with 3/4 ply, but for the most part-2x is easier.

    

   What are you hanging off the blocking?

   A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   Quester | Apr 22, 2008 04:04am | #2

   I am hanging upper cupboards and attaching lower cabinets through the drywall. I can picture what you are suggesting and believe that the saw kerf treatment will help me get the board flush with the front of the stud.

1. 
   calvin | Apr 22, 2008 04:44am | #4

   Not cutting or kerfing was ok for full coverage cabinetry.  When were blocking for toilet partitions or small fixtures you needed full backing w/o and air space so the rock didn't cave in.

   Another tip-cutting to length-don't make it too long (and 7/8's) or the spacing will grow and piss off the drywaller.  I'm thinking we cut them 15-3/4  /   23-3/4.  You'll pull it tight with the end screwing-let the other end "float" a bit short and face screw.

   Have fun.

   Eddie's idea on blocking width is a good one.

   And make sure you are not required to use Non Combustible wood.  In some assemblies that's all we used.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   Jim_Allen | Apr 22, 2008 05:13am | #5

   We used to laugh and say that the only thing combustible in the offices was the firestopping. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07

1. 
   calvin | Apr 22, 2008 12:28pm | #7

   A friend of mine used to bug me with his requests for "kindling''.

   On one of our mall jobs I saved him a bucket of cutoffs.

   Took him 2 sunday editions of the paper to ''try'' to get that fire started.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   FastEddie | Apr 22, 2008 04:26am | #3

   Ditto calvin, except we never cut the stud flange, always set the fence on the table saw and run a shallow groove.  And we typically use 2x6 or 2x8 to sallow lots of wiggle room to get it placed right.  2x4 is just a bit oo narrow."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   Howard_Burt | Apr 22, 2008 08:38am | #6

   Quester,

   It's possible this is a regional thing, but on the west coast, for steel stud construction, 6" wide by 10' long strips of 16 guage sheet metal, screwed to the face of the studs  is the most common form of "blocking".  Check with your drywall/steel stud supplier.

   You can use 2x stock, but it takes more time, and depending on the type of building you are in, it  might have  to be fire treated.

1. 
   mclaren | Apr 22, 2008 12:59pm | #8

   Used it here in the Mid Atlantic too.Guys used to order "kitchen metal".

   6" or 8" 16ga flat metal screwed to face of studs.

   Mclaren

   Edited 4/22/2008 5:59 am ET by mclaren

1. 
   Robrehm | Apr 22, 2008 02:13pm | #9

   I don't like the flat metal for blocking. It's too easy for it to strip out. IF it's a wall with ceramic tile and the partition hangger strips that hole you are screwed. With wood you can always go back & add a toothpick etc to the hole to get a bite for the threads.

1. 
   bjr | Apr 22, 2008 04:59pm | #10

    

   "I don't like the flat metal for blocking. It's too easy for it to strip out. IF it's a wall with ceramic tile and the partition hangger strips that hole you are screwed. With wood you can always go back & add a toothpick etc to the hole to get a bite for the threads."

   I agree. I've seen heavy cabinets that have pulled out of the sheet metal backing. Especially if it's a comercial office where they use the uppers to store reams of legal paper. To the occupants it's just convient storage and never think if the cabinet will stay up. Use fire treated 2x blocking as described earlier.

   BjR

3. 
   jonblakemore | Apr 22, 2008 07:22pm | #11

   I like to cut 2x6 or 2x8 blocks at slightly less than 16" and use a miter gage on table saw to make a saw kerf for the flange of the stud to fit in.

   It would probably be a good idea to use FRT (fire retardant treated) lumber as well. You may not be required to, but it's cheap insurance.

   *edit* I just noticed that the combustible wood issue has been dealt with already. I must have had this thread open from last night and forgot to refresh.

   Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com

   Fredericksburg, VA

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/22/2008 12:24 pm ET by JonBlakemore

1. 
   Quester | Apr 23, 2008 04:27am | #12

   Thank you all! We started with the blocking today and it is working well (using 2 x 6 with the saw kerf) I just needed a kick-start to get the design of what I needed and Breaktime and you guys have admirably come to the rescue! Thank you again.