Alright, now that I’ve worked out the kinks in my photo posting technique, I decided to start the thread over again from the top…
For those that missed the original version, I’ve decided to take a page from Mike Smith’s book and keep a running photo journal of current jobs.
Now, I’m a young guy, and I’m sure that I will be opening myself up to criticism from the pros – but I am fully aware of that. I’m very strong in some areas of carpentry and building, others I’m much weaker.
But I don’t carry much of an ego, and I love learning better ways to do things. Who knows, maybe somebody will even learn a few things from this thread?
Either way, I think it will be fun and educational – so I’m just going for it.
(photos to begin in post #2
Justin Fink – FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Replies
First off, a brief description of the job:
The unfinished basement is roughly 1400 sq. ft., and the finished portion is to be +/-940 when all is said and done.
It's a walkout basement, and one wall of the poured concrete foundation is shared by the neighboring house (it's sort of a retirement community of small, but nicely built two-level homes).
Here is a sketchup version of the floorplan - some of these measurements are off a bit, but it was good enough to get me through the building inspector...more on that later.
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Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Edited 10/10/2006 10:03 am ET by JFink
Edited 10/10/2006 10:04 am ET by JFink
Day 2: (First day I didn't have my camera...)
My lumber delivery didn't show up Saturday morning, apparently I forgot to put a signature on one of the credit forms, and rather than calling me to tell me the problem, they just never showed up. Now I'm not an angry person, and I actually really don't like being pissed off, but that made me mad.
The lumber yard I deal with is really top notch, so this was truly a fluke as far as I'm concerned.
So I went the HD on Saturday afternoon and loaded up roughly 50 studs and various PT plates (2x4s, 2x6s, etc) to at least get me through the afternoon. No pictures of this day, because like I said, I had no camera with me.
Sunday rolls around, and obviously the lumberyard won't be open, so it's back to the HD to (over)load my truck with studs and rigid foam insulation...
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The old girl handled the full load like a dream - I was very pleased!
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...and here we are about an hour (and two sore shoulders) later - all the sticks stacked on horses. By the way, these are a pair of Trojan sawhorses I'm testing for the T&M section of FHB - so far I'm really liking them alot. Impossibly sturdy, fold up and fit easily into tight spaces for storage, and you can change out the top support piece for whatever size of lumber you want depending on the task at hand. I don't think you can see it in this pic, but I also took a page out of Boss Hog's book (at least I think it was Boss) and put 2x4 joist hangers on each of the 2x6 top pieces to hold a 7 or 8 ft. cross piece for when I'm cutting sheets of plywood. Really great idea. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Sure is handy to have the lumberyard deliver that load to the driveway. Don't have to drive to HD/Lowes, don't have to pick the wood & load on cart, don't have to transfer load from cart to truck...and then truck to driveway. You really do appreciate the lumberyard.
But then you realize it is Saturday after noon and the lumberyard is closed. Oh well. :)
Wooooweeee, $60 for A sawhorse?! $123 for a pair?! They better be good for that price, but I don't think my budget would cover 'em.
What is the general plan for the basement? foamboard, studs, drywall for the walls? What are you going to do on the floors? jt8
"Most of the shadows of this life are caused by our standing in our own sunshine." -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
John,
The general plan is EPs rigid foam on the walls, studs after that, then drywall to finish it off. The flooring is still under negotiations (customer is thinking over options) but it will most likely be a floating cork floor laid right over the slab. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
but it will most likely be a floating cork floor laid right over the slab.
Justin - "most likely"? how likely? i.e. have they looked into those product lines yet and picked anything out yet? if so, what product line?
Reason I ask: I'm sitting here with various flooring samples I picked up this weekend, and 3 are cork - all made by "Natural CORK" but I've not yet discerned what kinda rep they have!DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
My wishy washy language reminds me of a favorite simpsons quote:
"I can't promise to try Lisa, but I'll try to try"
...anyway, I'm pretty sure that it will be cork, and I will only get floating as I don't want to mess with glue down. That said, this will be my first experience with cork, so I can't speak about brands with any confidence. Did you check out ifloor.com and look at their article section? The CEO of that company usually does a great job with honestly profiling different brands of flooring - at least he did with laminate. I assume he might have something similar if he carries your brand of cork.
I may get mine from lumber liquidators, simply because they are local. I was tentatively looking at these from a company called Lisbon: http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/thumbnail.jsp?parentCategoryId=2&categoryId=10&nonFlooring=1&PIPELINE_SESSION_ID=34ad5628c0a86b6542fe056d5df513fbJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Well I thought...yup I "thought" I was going for an engineered HW floor on the slab in my living room. Then I brought home some flooring samples from my trip this weekend...and invited some friends, neighbors, coworkers over tonite to check them out and give me their impressions.
Being in central AR, I was unsure if going with a cork floor for a living room, would be too "out there" for this geographic area's normal aesthetic. But all the gals AND guys gravitated toward the NaturalCork sample I have, in a pattern called Cleopatra.
My dilemma right now is this: in prior research, I had made note that density of cork flooring is what determines its durability, and the wear layer of cork needs to be a minimum of 4mm. Welllllllllllllllllll - the NaturalCork product I've mentioned above, has a density of 34 (anything over 28 is reportedly preferable) but its wear layer is 3mm.
SO I'm currently going Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
I checked out Lumber Liquidator's in Memphis last weekend. Wasn't too impressed; don't recall seeing the Lisbon cork flooring product you mention!?
I'm still looking. Seems that Wicanders and Globus Cork product lines are quite the high end...and Durodesign (sp?) and NaturalCork are more upper middle or lower high end product lines. Lumber Liquidators website says they carry (1) APC Cork, (2) BHK and (3) Eurocork and I've not seen much about those YET. But I'll certainly note more about them as my researching continues.
Big difference for us Justin is you're talking basement location and I'm looking to do a show location room - i.e. my living room. But at the rate I'm going, it'll be 2007 before I get ANYTHING installed in there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So hurry up and do yours and I'll read along to see how well ya like it, how easy was it to install, etc etc etc.DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
Cleopatra and Lisbon look to just be different colors of the same thing:
http://www.fastfloors.com/lp_10412,0,3503/Natural-Cork-Cork-Flooring/_/Parquet-Tiles-Lisbon/product.htm#NAV
I've never done a cork floor and would probably have to see one before I'd consider installing one, because I can't seem to shake the image in my head of those 1/2" thick (or so) cork adhesive squares from the 1970s/80's that people would put on walls and use as bulletin boards... and how after a few years the cork would start to crumble off...
jt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
Edited 10/10/2006 10:55 pm by JohnT8
I'm with you. I am leaning towards cork in a kitchen I am remodeling but I can't shake the image of cork bulletin boards on the floor. The web pics on the various sites look nice, but so does the Hummer I'm not driving!
I've never done a cork floor...
Ditto. But after seeing samples at stores (versus viewing items online) while I was looking primarily at engineered HW flooring, I found myself a bit more intrigued with cork than I'd previously thought myself susceptible to. SO anyway - let's see if Justin ends up installing cork in this basement? and if so, what product and installation steps are required - since there's quite a few steps involved if one uses NaturalCork's website instructions as any kinda indicaiton! DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
Do you happen to know if cork flooring can be stained using hardwood floor stain?
Thanks! Lisa
Never tried it myself, but I have heard of stained cork used. Not sure what the method is, though - sorry to not be of much help.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
How is the basement coming along? All done?
Yea what's going on here? You walk out on the job or get canned?
Pardon my fat fingers.
http://www.hay98.com/
No, I just ran out of motivation to take photos. In fact, the drywall guys are there today doing their 'thang. I will snap some photos after they are done, but before the cork floor goes in.
...alright, let's see if I can't get myself motivated again here!!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
YOU CAN DO IT!
Pardon my fat fingers.
http://www.hay98.com/
Hey Justin,Project looks great. Few people have questioned your idea of a cork floor and I can tell you we love the one I put down in the basement. Project was similar to yours and is almost done now. We've been using it anyway for a while. I got my cork from BlackRiver flooring on the web. Service was great, I was a bit leary having to get it shipped but there was little or no problem there. One box was crushed by the pallet jack and they sent out a replacement for it no ridiculous questions. Not exactly sure which floor we ended up with but I believe this is the one http://blackriverfloors.com/cork-detail/l-fc-13.htm . I wasn't as thorough as you and only looked at the wear specs after reading your post. Can't find a density reading (only thing they report is 500Kg/m3 and the wear layer is 3mm).The cork floor gets great comments from everyone that comes downstairs and it is great for the little ones because it is kind of soft and gives a bit. You can see from the pics the room was designed as a playroom for the kidsAs for how I put it down in case anyone is interested. The basement was bone dry in all my tests (as long as I run a dehumidifier in the summer), but just to be safe I put down a layer of Delta-FL then used a layer of poly with a thin foam layer on it. According to the manufacturer none of this was necessary but I figured better safe than sorry. Floor wasn't perfectly level so I first used a self leveler to bring up the low spots then the Delta FL in double layers (almost like mini shims) for a few spots that still weren't perfect. Bathroom I put the Delta FL, then some tongue and groove plywood followed by just peel and stick tiles.Feel free to ask any questions. I'm almost done but you can see a few areas that aren't quite there yet. (I took pictures of virtually everything as I went). I've posted a few pics from before I started, some of the floor installation and where it all is now.
I gotta ask a favor: when you do your concrete moisture test before installing any ultimate floor covering you choose - please share what you did and/or used for your testing. Specifically, I'm eager to learn if you'll do a calcium chloride test conforming to ASTM F 1869 method?
TIA!
DUM SPIRO SPERO: "While I breathe I hope"
justin.... thanks for sharing.. don't forget to come out of the basement every once in a while ....no mole people here
i like you saw rig too !
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
JUSTIN
I had a set of those very same sawhorse legs that I purchased at a yard in Dallas TX back in the mid 80's. I used them for years loved them, easy to store both the legs and the tops in the van. Sturdy as all get go, I was never able to overload them no matter how I tried. Unfortunately I loaned them out and never saw them again.Where can I purchase a set.
steve
P.S. Why did my typeface change after the first sentence?
It was me who talked about the sawhorses with the 2X6s between them. Then you asked me to take some pictures and send them to you, as you might use them in the magazine. But since I didn't hear back, I assume that's not gonna happen?
Love may be blind, but marriage is a real eye-opener.
I'm not sure boss - I asked you for those so that I could hand them to our Tips and Techniques guy. It's ultimately his call, but I think there were some other horses running right about the time that I handed him those, so he likely shelved them for awhile.
didn't stop me from stealing your idea though!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Justin, which wall is the shared party wall?Also, it looks like the space to the left of the stairway will be unfinished (utility room?) Also to the left of the 12x12 room?At right center, what is the reason for the bump-in (of 2'4")Does the stairway turn at what appears to be a landing? What do the different colors/textures mean in the picture? I assume brown/tan is stud wall, what about the solid black and cross-hatched portions (cross-hatched also protrudes into the interior)?That enough questions for you?Thanks,Eric
Eric,
Here are some much needed labels that will hopefully clear up the confusion (by the way, the wall on the right hand side is the shared wall:
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...but I still don't know what you mean when you are talking about the stairs? They go straight up, but there is a short landing at the top.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
ah, lunchtime - I can put up some more pics...let's take a brief tour of the site:
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....Here you can see the shared wall on the right hand side (the walkout is directly behind me). That lump under the drop cloth is a bohemith pool table that will eventually need to be moved to a new position so that it fits comfortably with the new design (the pool table guys will handle taht for me, and I will probably install the floor up to the legs and cut it to fit).
Beyond the pool table is where the office will be, cordoned off with french doors, and you can see the waste pipes that will require me to bump out the walls a bit. Because there is now window in the back sectino of the basement, the building inspector says I need a bath vent running to daylight. I plan to leave the doors off until after the final inspection, and we'll just call it an archway with no doors - our little secret guys...
A light turn to the left and you can see a bit of the framing has already begun (the day I didn't have a camera). I also cut back the wall of the stairs to open up an otherwise tight entry area. Better pics of this to follow. Obviously the furnace is part to blame for the tight entry, it was located in a pretty inconvenient spot in terms of remodeling...
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Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
A little farther to the left and we are back at the sawhorses and lumber. Beyond the wood, there will be a halfwall that comes out into the room (under the beam), with sewing table, craft table, etc in the space beyond.
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To the left is the existing 2x4 exterior walls, and the footing bumpout (not seen) that will be solved by building a half wall directly above - which we discussed in other threads.
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...Here's a better pic of the stair wall that was cut back, I wonder if a festool or EZ smart would have been applicable to this kind of situation? maybe fasten it to the wall to get a nice straight cut right where you want it?
The dangling switches will be re-routed so they fall on the opposite stair wall, the one that is still floor to ceiling. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
What kinda headroom you got walking under that lally supported beam?
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Are you going to put post covers on the lallies?
Looks like a nice space. Would be a shame not to fully utilize it.
jt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
Justin,
Thanks for starting this thread. I intend to do my own basement and will be following this closely.
A couple questions. From looking at your floorplan it looks like you are sacrificing 2',4" for the sake of the drain pipes on the right hand wall, is this right? Why is that much needed? I, and I suspect almost anyone with a basement have several walls with drainpipes, I'd hate to give up that much space. Is your plan to apply the foam on this wall to the backside of the 2X4s (instead of the foundation wall) and you need the full 2',4" for working room to do that?
From looking at the photos it appears the drain pipes continue, taking a 90 along the adjacent wall (18',9" horizontally oriented wall in your floorplan, at top). Your floorplan doesn't show the new 11' wall being bumped out 2',4" for the pipes in this location. Why is that? Just haven't revised it or perhaps you're dealing with it differently there?
Thanks for any information.
Nice article on batteries by the way.
Hi Nov,
First of all, you are correct to note that the waste line around the back wall doesn't show up on the plans - the plans aren't concrete. There will be a space there - I will get some pics for you asap on that.
The plan is to put the rigid foam right onto the wall. I need to box out that couple of feet to get around both the waste lines and some ductwork and copper pipes. You can see them in the upper right corner of one of the photos. I will try to get better shots to capture all of that. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Don't forget that you want to leave some kind of access to those cleanouts.Maybe a "cabinet door" on the end of the bumpout to access the two.And a plubming access trap door on the one on the other wall.
Justin,
There is one thing that I had been wondering about the use of the rigid foam insulation that you can probably answer. My impression is that either because of its flammability and/or toxic gasses given off when it burns that a 1/2" covering, typically drywall is required. I'm sure you know more about this than me.
So my question is in the large unfinished area to the left (electrical service, furnace contained in area over 29' long) if you put the foam on the concrete wall and have nothing directly on top of it (looks like this is your plan), is that going to be code acceptable? I realize that you have a drywalled wall several feet away from it but that's not directly on top. Perhaps it is OK because the large unfinished area that foam is exposed within is not living area, is that the explanation?
Reasons I ask are I am about to put a bunch of rigid foam on the inside of a kneewall hidden area which will have a small access door and I wonder if technically / according to a building inspector that I have to have dwall on it, if it's an area people can get to / walk around in. Also I'm sure some day I'll be doing my basement and may need to have the stud/dwall wall built out from the foam covered concrete like what you're doing.
Thanks for your previous reply and any further information.
You've done your research Nov, you are right that you need a 1/2-in. layer over rigid foam. On the lefthand side of the floorplan, you mention the partition wall that is a few feet out from the electrical service. I'm goign to use batts of unfaced fiberglass insulation in these walls - the rigid is only being used where the walls will be right up to the concrete foundation.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
I just wrote up a long explanation, but it somehow got lost. Here is the short version:
- can't remember exact headroom, but I think it's somewhere in the 'hood of 6'8" or so.
- most of the lallys will be within a 2x6 wall (outside wall of closet). 2x6 because the columns aren't in a straight line, and I needed some wiggle room to keep them all within the same wall, without the wall being out of square with the rest of the room.
- the other lallys will fall within a 40" half wall (also 2x6s) and the top half of the columns will be boxed in with some sort of trimwork to be determined down the line. Probably just a simple box shape with top and bottom molding.
Here's a quick and crude model to show the half wall and columns...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
whoops...
View ImageJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
That reminds me a bit of that thread Mike had a few months back.
View Imagejt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
My general tendency is to try and make a 2' wasted space used for something. Just throwing wild ideas out, but is there any way to incorporate a built-in shelf unit where those waste lines are located? Maybe with doors across the top to conceal the cleanouts (while still allowing access to them)?
View Imagejt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
I love your idea John, and I would love to do the same. But that's a bit of a budget upgrade. The client felt that she would like to just center the french doors between the two bumpouts (one for furnace, the other for waste pipes) and think of it as a little hallway of sorts.
It may still be on the table for discussion, not sure. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Foam going up in the back corner - I back buttered the 2" thick foam with expanding foam, then held them in place with 2x4s (later will be used to make the walls). Andy Engel showed the use of long rips of plywood in his project, but I found it easier to use the 2xs because I could pin point certain areas of the rigid foam that tended to pop out from the wall during drying.
View ImageJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
To mark out where the front wall of the office will land, I borrowed a laser line from one of fellow eds (Thanks Chris), then used a chalk line to duplicate where the laser fell...
View ImageJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Here's one for you justin.
I cannot remember if you were drywalling the ceiling (as this step is a good one for those using drop ceilings) but I use this procedure on all jobs and come time for tile (floor or ceiling) I'm always glad I did.
I start the job with two control lines and build off of them. They are square to each other. They may be in a corner a foot or two off the ext. wall or right smack dab in the middle of the building area. Think about where you want them and won't cover them with walls/material or whatever. I'll often plan according to a known opening and run one through there to be able to get at it after walls are up. All walls, soffits, cabinet runs.......everything are pulled off these two lines.
To keep the chalked lines in place for the duration I spray clear lacquer or any clear non waterbased sealer over them. Of course you wouldn't do this to a finished floor, but on a sub or bsmnt concrete that'll be covered later, it's the #### 's.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I did something very similar in this job Calvin - squared up the wall under the load bearing beam first, then worked my way off of that. Your idea of lacquer over the chalk line is interesting, but why not just use permanent red chalk instead?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Unless I used an ink line I don't think the red chalk, tho permanent, stays crisp as I would like. That's all.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Keep the thread going, looks good so far ;)
and forget what I said about the Festool...
use that money towards a real truck!
You know, I went out shopping for a new truck maybe a month or two back - but after several weeks of consideration, I decided to just run the ranger to the end and then make a decision.
The Ford's weren't very impressive for the money, the Toyota's were very impressive, but the money was very high, and on and on...
...I also just signed a new mortgage, so lots of my money is going there for awhile. You know how it goes.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
around here anyway, now's a good time with end of the year deals.
I was out looking at new trucks with a buddy a few weeks ago, Ford & Chevy had deals for around 14k for 06 1/2 tons. They were stripped down pretty bare, but a trucks a truck for the most part as long as it has A/C it's good to go in my book...
Nevermind the fact I bought a 150 XLT with almost every option box I could check ;)
The only thing I do not like about my ford is the gas milage blows.
Justin,
Here's one way to get some extra out of that truck:
http://www.hitchestogo.com/Roadmaster.htm
I've got them on my '90 Toyota 1/2 ton and have safely (and slowly!) hauled 1,700# loads.
Wayne
Remember that chalkline from the previous post? Well that line became the front wall (and rough opening) for the french door to the office area - as seen here:
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Notice that I didn't put in the cripples above the door yet, that's because I couldn't raise the complete wall without that copper pipe getting in the way... Next pic shows how I built the crips to go around the pipe -View Image
By the way, I haven't yet mentioned that this house has residential fire sprinklers, basement included. As I mentioned before, it's a retirement type of community (I think age 55+ ?) and since the houses are so close together, they had to put in sprinklers.
When I submitted the plans for code approval, I was told I needed to re-route the sprinkler system so that it worked with the new partition walls. Otherwise the spray patterns wouldn't work correctly, and some areas of the basement would be susceptible to fire. do you have any idea the headache it is to find somebody who designs fire sprinkler systems? can't even get a return phone call...
Photos of the stair wall to come tonight or tomorrow, I haven't taken them off my camera yet.
I've got one photo shoot for the magazine this saturday, but I hope to make some nice progress before I have to leave again on sunday for a second photo shoot...jam packed!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Justin, the job looks great so far. Love to follow the pics. I have to say also that I am impressed by a guy who keeps his dumbbells handy for those opportune times when you can squeeze in a few curls! Good job my man!
Nice workaround on the pipe.
If you have a 'dramatic' spot to take a pic from, keep feeding us the series of 'em as work progresses and I'll Flash 'em.
jt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
On the wall where you put the insulation, it appears that you have a small area next to/behind the waste pipe that is not covered. Are my eyes deceiving me? Are you planning to spray some sort of foam (great stuff) to cover that area?
If I'm thinking of the same spot as you are - then yes, I will be filling those gaps with expansion foam.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
So what's the plan with the copper pipe that you framed around? Isn't that going to be below the ceiling? Or are you putting in a dropped ceiling?
Just curious.
So how's the basement job coming? Hope you haven't given up on the blog.
I'm also curious to know what you're going to do with that copper line.
********************************************************************So what's the plan with the copper pipe that you framed around? Isn't that going to be below the ceiling? Or are you putting in a dropped ceiling?
Just curious.
Don't worry haven't given up on the blog - unfortunately I haven't had time to sit at the computer lately - extremely busy with Taunton work, lots of photos and travelling.
I might be able to get some more photos up here tonight, if not tonight - by mid week. Thanks for the interest.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
glad to see you haven't given up... nothing like an insider ( you ) psoting these pics to test the system....
at least you know how time consuming it isMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Holy cow, I have a newfound appreciation for the time it takes to post pictures on Breaktime while trying to run a remodeling project...sorry for the lag, let's try to play catchup here...
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Following along with interest but;
Holy cow, I have a newfound appreciation for the time it takes to post pictures on Breaktime while....
You have all that office time for God sake, who's going to know what your up to, they'll think your busy doing Taunton stuff! And technically you are.
Doug
Remember the footing to be turned into halfwall? Here are the PT plates laid out and ready for Ramset-ing.
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and here is the same wall with notched studs in place...
View ImageJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Sorry for the huge pictures, I resized them 50% but they are still pretty large...here are some more appropriately sized shots from different angles...
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and a zoomed out shot of an extremely messy, and trip-hazardous work area...
View ImageJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Electricians are in day two of their work right now, I will try to snap some shots of that tonight when I swing by the site. Also, got some of the soffits started, but left open for the wiring to be run, and because I'm sure the inspector will make me open them up for the rough inspection anyhow.
...also, a word of caution for you basement remodelers. Make sure to include fireblocking before you put up the walls. Unless of course, like me, you prefer to learn things the hard way :)
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Justin, I've learned a few hard lessons about fireblocking in basements myself.
Where are the fireblocks required in your basement?
blueOur Skytrak is for sale. It has 500 hrs on it. We want 50k (you pay the freight) and we'll finance it. Drop me an email; it's a good buy.
They have to be applied to all soffits that join against stud walls, and any spaces left between the existing concrete foundation and the plumbed up stud walls. The foam between the new stud walls and existing foundation is flammable, so it needs to have something above it to keep the flame from spreading up into the floor joists. Really, really, would have made sense to do it ahead of time. Lesson learned!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
I think this one was supposed to be aimed at you, not me.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=79834.61
jt8
"Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my apple tree." -- Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.
Oops, I should have gone back and looked at the plan. Didn't realize it was a hallway.jt8
"All the knowledge I possess everyone else can acquire, but my heart is all my own." -- Goethe
No poker room?
Justin, in Sketchup, use the FILE>EXPORT>2D GRAPHIC sequence to send a .jpg to a folder, then use Irfanview doing IMAGE>RESIZE/RESAMPLE and check the 480 x 640 size. Then do FILE>SAVE and you will have a nicely sized .jpg of just the image portion of your SU model. No control bars anywhere.