Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 08, 1999 07:03am | #1

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   If this is like the stuff that currently resides in my attic, come and get it because I don't want it any more. I wish I could find the guy who covered the batts in my attic (to practice my neck wringing technique).

   He covered all the light boxes so, what else, they fried the drywall and charred some ceiling joists. Besides, ever try to trace a wire covered with this stuff?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 08, 1999 07:25am | #2

   *Hi Dave:Today I watched a crew blowing cellulose onto walls here in Virginia in new construction. They mix water with the cellulose to make it stick to the walls, which in this case were 2x4 studs with the outside sheeting being a mix of OSB board and 1/2" foam board. They had a neat tool, an electric motor driving two rollers with a total width greater than 16" so the rollers were guided by the studs to shave the cellulose so the drywall could be installed. I assume a vapor barrier will be installed before the drywall goes up, I'll check back. The installer talked only briefly and said the newest piece of equipment he had saves the most time: a vacuum (4"hose) that a helper uses to suck up all the oversprayed and shaved material and deposits it back into the hopper to be re-used. All this equipment was now mounted in a large truck with a diesel generator for power and storage area for the cellulose. The packages were marked Cocoon Loose Fill Cellulose. He said before they purchased the vacuum, they sat the blower in the house so the helper could shovel the scrap back into the hopper.I guess when the water evaporates there might be some shrinkage. How do I dense pack cellulose into a new wall when I need to insulate before the drywall to pass my insulation/energy inspection?There were some areas that had fiberglass batts already installed, like around a return duct. Where there was no outside sheating, like the wall between the living area and the garage, they installed a netting on the "outside" of the studs and sprayed the cellulose onto that. He did mention they had tried netting both sides of the studs and packing the cellulose in the top, but the drywallers complained the cellulose would not compact enough, and the drywall bowed, so they stopped doing it that way.This crewe is the cellulose sub contractor for a large insulation contractor in the area, so he wouldn't give his direct telephone number.Hope this helps and not confuses,Frank

2. 
   Dave_Lofholm | Jan 08, 1999 08:58am | #3

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   Fred, Just to clarify..On a new home do you just drill a hole in the outer sheeting after the drywall is up and then blow it in? Where do you locate the hole and what size nozzle do you use? Thanks again!

1. 
   Brian_W | Jan 08, 1999 04:45pm | #4

   *Try :www.cellulose.orgThey have lots of info.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 08, 1999 04:59pm | #5

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   On the last 4 homes I've completed, including my own, I used string reinforced poly streached tight over the face of the studs and dry blew cellulose into the cavities. I can recommend that system. I'm a builder, not an insulater. First and second houses I had someone else do the process. Then the price skyrocketed. In an effort to stay on budget I met with an insulation materials supplier who loaned me a medium grade blower and delivered the materials to the job.

   I made up a poly streacher in a hour or so and after a little practice streaching and blowing we made better than average $ .

   Since you already have the blower all you'll need is a 1" crown roofing stapler to staple the plastic to the wall. I ripped up sheets of 1/8" masonite 1 1/2" wide to staple over the plastic at each stud and the plates.

   The "brand name" of the system is 'ParPac' but you can probably get the generic string poly from your insulation supplier.

   I haven't let anyone try damp spraying cellulose on any of my homes yet. There's only one installer equiped in my state and the one house he priced was too high. Plus he said I'd have to put up a vapor retarder because he didn't recommend one.

   I have no opinion myself on the process - only the conflicting opinions I've gathered from FHB, JLC and EDU (energy design update).

   Before you purchase the pump and spray equipment give dry blowing a try. You can always upgrade later.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 09, 1999 03:46am | #6

   *Wet spray cellulose insulation for standard 2x4 studded walls - how long must it dry prior to installing the drywall? OK - you say it depends on the environment - let's say, a temperature of 85 degrees (f) and 85% relative humidity. Exterior sheathing would be 1/2" OSB or 1/2" polystyrene foam board.TIA

4. 
   Dave_Lofholm | Jan 09, 1999 07:29pm | #7

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   Thanks to all of you who tried to help!! Dave

5. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 1999 11:19pm | #8

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   Matt G.:

   Here in VA the house I saw with wet spray cellulose insulation was drywalled in 3 days after insulation, and it is around freezing, more 35 dF days than 85 dF you mentioned.

   Frank

6. 
   matt_edmunds | Jan 17, 1999 08:14pm | #9

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   dear dave,
   I know this is kind of cheating. I have no information for you, but a question. I am looking at maybe building a double wall addition on my house. What can you tell me about blowing cellulose in walls after the rock and sheeting is on. The walls are going to be about 12" thick. Will celulose compress too much in this application or do I need to use the dence pack, glue laden stuff, before the rock goes on? Any information would be appriciated. I may not be far from you, here in NW Wisconsin. Thanks dave

7. 
   Dave_Lofholm | Jan 17, 1999 08:26pm | #10

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   Part of our business includes blowing cellulose into attics and through holes in existing walls. I would like to offer new homebuilders the service of blowing cellulose into wall cavities in new construction, using the technique where it is blown or sprayed in using a binder and then shaved off even with the studs.

   I would really appreciate hearing opinions pro or con about this method of insulating.

   I would also like to know more about the equipment needed to do this. We already own the blowers. Do we use these along with additional spray equipment or what?? I really don't know where to start asking these kinds of questions, so I would appreciate ANY information on this system that I could get.

   Is this a franchise type operation or can we purchase this equipment on the market? We are in Northern Michigan. Any commercial vendors can e-mail me directly. Thank you for all replys!

8. 
   Guest_ | Jan 17, 1999 08:26pm | #11

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   Matt - Gene Leger responde to a similar question of mine over in "R values".