Hi All
I’m about to replace some of the siding on my house and thought this might work, please comment if it looks like I’m missing anything.
Cut anywhere from 12 to 16 inches off bottom of siding, depending on highest point of rot. It will be the same height all the way around house. Attach 5/8 inch plywood to sill plate and wall studs, nail and glue. Cover with tar paper slipping 4-6″ under existing siding. Nail up 1×12 untreated pine. Do some molding at bottom of battens and again at bottom edge of 1×12. What do you think?
Thanks
Kevin
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I bet if you repost that as a jpeg...
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Sorry Piff, I had it labeled as small but it wasn't, see Sphere beat me to it.Kevin
Just an opinion - what you plamn would work fine.
What I would consider its to make the cut at a level with the top of the window sills, insert tarpaper and flashing up under the B&B, but for the space that is geting replaced, use clpboards and rainscreen. Trim the transition with a watertable molding that is similar to the sills, giging you a continupous horizontal band and the lower horizontal lines of the claps to 'anchor' the building visually and make it look less tall.
That is a taste thing. The waterproofing details would be similar either way
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I like the idea but don't see it working for me. Couple of points, The windows are not level although the picture doesn't show it. So I'd have to decide which window sash I line up with and with one not level the eye would pick it up. The studs are very widely spaced say 6 feet in a balloon frame so I'd have to do more framing work, might have to anyway with my idea but the sill would be a good attachment point, and the house is only 1 1/2 stories high, I'll find a picture with the house down on the foundation, doesn't appear that tall in person. Some foundation planting and a climbing rose plant will soften the look. Missed the flashing in my original post, good point, Maybe cut the existing siding at a slight bevel up as well.
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will do
some picture of the house set down on new foundation.
Something else you said just kicked in with the brain cells here.Studs 6'OCA lot of the time, with old places like this, the verticle siding is a structural element to some degree. Cutting too much off above the sill *could* let things settle down from above a little...Obviously, I can't see it allfrom here, but just a word to the wise - sit and scratch your chin awhile as you look thaat subject over befor e whacking away.
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Good point, I didn't know they were structural. What if I just cut the battens, leave the boards and nail a 1x12 on boards through to new sill behind, catching what studs and cross members, if any, I can. Maybe bevel the board on the tablesaw prior to putting on house.
Not saying they definitely are, and you don't get much snow load, but just something to be aware of. I can't comment too much on details without being there
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How soon can you get here? :)
What might look better is a man made stone fascade up to a water table.Not much more expensive than siding and a good way to hide the new foundation.
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Plan on doing some sort of stone facade for founfation but that doesn't fix the bad siding issue. Unless you mean extend the stone up past the top of the foundation onto the house?
That is what I meant. Pick a height that covers most of the bad boards remove the batten and boards to that height slide in a flashing behind the boards then add plywood to replace cutoff boards double layer 30lb felt then lathe down to bottom of foundation. Then add a watertable big enough to project over the stone and start laying in the stone.
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Got it!
good idea!
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I have a similar situation. Its been a PITA, but I've been working on cutting the boards on a 45 degree angle. Circular saw blade is set just shy of penetrating all the way through the wood and cutting the vapor barrier. After the cut, I snap off the board and clean the edge with a knife or chisel. I then fit a 1x10 cut on a 45 degree angle under the board and batten. Then to finish it off, a ripped down 1x10 cut on 45 in the shape of a triangle tucks under the batten and is nailed on top of the 1x10 horizontal board.
When necessary, I slip a piece of flashing bent on angle up behind the boards and out onto the 1x10 on the 45.
"I then fit a 1x10 cut on a 45 degree angle under the board and batten"
You doing this 8 or so feet at a time?
Depending on the length of the wall. I use 8' and 10' 1x10s cut with a 45 miter to overlap the intersection.
you sneaking into my head. With the exception of the vapor barrier, my house has none, what your doing is exactly what I planned. Post some pictures if you haven't already.Kevin