Replies

1. 
   abw12 | Jul 23, 2003 01:41am | #1

   I could also lower the deck several inches and bolt it to the foundation, but that sounded like more of a pain to me. I will gladly accept any advice.

   Thanks.

1. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 23, 2003 07:11am | #9

   Personally, I'd bolt the ledger to the foundation wall; it's not that big a deal. If you don't have a big hammer drill, rent one and have fun. It won't take you long. You can use expansion anchors and bolt the ledger in place, or lead anchors and lag bolts. Leads and lags cost less. 3/8" lags on 16" centers should be sufficiently big unless you're planning on mega dance parties on the deck....

   I prefer setting the joists on top of the ledger rather than toenailing them to the face of it or using joist hangers. This gives me solid 1½"-wide support (or 3", if I run a double ledger for some reason), and saves me the cost and trouble of metal hangers. If you do it this way, cut solid blocking from scrap joist stock to fit between the joists at the house end to prevent them twisting.

   Protect the tops of your ledger, joists, and outboard beam with 90# felt before you nail on the decking, especially if the deck is unroofed. If your beam is built-up from 2x's, use a galvanized flashing bedded in pitch instead of the 90#.

   Dinosaur

   'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?

   
2. 
   Piffin | Jul 23, 2003 03:24am | #2

   What you are needing to be doing is to get plenty of those lags into solid framing. Doesn't matter if it is rim joist or sills. The idea is that you don't want to just be hitting plywood sheething and siding with that steel.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   abw12 | Jul 23, 2003 03:44am | #3

   Thanks for the helpful info.

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 23, 2003 03:55am | #4

   Come on back again. There's more laying around here someplace.

   Or just sit and listen. No telling what you might learn.

   ;).

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   ProDek | Jul 23, 2003 04:29am | #5

   Hi abw12- I would recommend you don't just run your bolts through the siding but remove the siding then place some metal drip edge under the row of siding just above the ledger. Install felt paper on the rim joist and try to work it  just under the drip edge. Now install your treated ledger with some 5/8x 4" galv lag bolts - two every 16" should be fine, one top and one bottom.

   there would only be 1 1/2" of wood above the bolt on the deck ledger board?

   I don't quite understand what you are saying here?

   A 5' radius is real sharp. How do you plan on bending the fascia that tight?

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

1. 
   abw12 | Jul 23, 2003 04:53am | #6

   I don't have enough room to install one bolt on top and one on the bottom due to the low placement of the ledger on the house...I can put one towards the middle though. Don't worry about that 1 1/2" bussiness, that's only if i were to try and get a bolt into the rim joist, i was going to put the bolts into the mud sill instead, which would place the bolt in the middle of my ledger. Wouldn't one bolt every 16" be enough? (On our porch they put one bolt every 32" about.)

   For that fascia, I'm going to rip 2x lumber into 1/8" strips. And it's going to be done in mahogany, so i might have to build a steamer (finally gives me an excuse to build a steamer...maybe i'll finally attempt some good chairs). There was a artical on curved decks a little while ago.

   Edited 7/22/2003 9:58:39 PM ET by abw12

1. 
   ProDek | Jul 23, 2003 06:25am | #7

   One bolt would be probably be OK but the reason for two is so the ledger won't cup which can loosen the joist hangers. It is also done to eliminate a large live load from pulling the deck from the house. 

   You could drill some holes into the foundation and put some striker bolts in then hold the ledger on with nuts to hold the bottom in place."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

1. 
   abw12 | Jul 23, 2003 06:38am | #8

   Thank you for your advice and help. I'll let you know how it works out and post some pictures after i start (and finish).

4. 
   Nivek | Jul 28, 2003 01:31am | #10

   I would bolt the ledger to the foundation and put spacers in between the foundation and your ledger to allow any moisture to escape and not be trapped. If possible, leaving the siding in tacked would be best. A ledger bolted to the rim joist or any other 2x thats behind your siding will mean your ledger will be right on your siding trapping moisture. Sure it will hold your deck up but you might be compromising your siding. If you do place it on your siding try to leave a space between the siding and the ledger and better yet like mentioned try to  put a flashing under the closest course of siding and over your ledger to stop the water from getting in between the ledger and siding. You can put your ledger onto the fondation and then place your decking joists ontop of the ledger making the deck probably the same height your planned. Whatever you do, try not to trap that water between your siding and your ledger.

   Kev

1. 
   abw12 | Aug 06, 2003 09:59pm | #11

   Thanks for your input. I think I'm going to bolt it over the siding with spacers, and install flashing on top.

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Aug 07, 2003 01:16am | #12

   Take a look at the newest JLC magazine.  It has an article on deck ledgers and gives about a half dozen renditions, depending on your application/situation.  It's worth the price of the mazine.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

5. 
   MojoMan | Aug 07, 2003 05:22am | #13

   Depending on the height of the ledger, you could use long galvanized (not zinc) lag screws into the sill. I just used 1/2" x 6", 16" o.c. on a deck. Or, if you can get to the inside of the rim joist, you could use 1/2" galvanized bolts, washers and nuts. That way you don't have to worry about only 1 1/2" for a screw to bite into.

   Pay careful attention to your water protection. Most would suggest stripping the siding so you can get felt or Ice&Water and aluminum UNDER the siding above the ledger. Adding spacers so water doesn't get trapped between the ledger and the house is a very good idea. Water trapped in this area can cause major structural damage to the house.

   I too just got my JLC (Can we mention that here??) and saw the article exactly on this topic. Check it out!

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA 

6. 
   haveasafeday | Aug 07, 2003 06:13am | #14

   Ex deck re-builder turned home inspector.  Moisture is major concern.  Deck collapse a few years back in Atlanta had rotting rim joist as contributing factor.  Remove siding.  Use bolts rather than screws if possible.  International Residential Code specifies 1/2 inch bolts.  16 inches on center better than 32 inches.  Through bolting has superior withdrawl properties compared to lag screws.  Would not lag 2x to 2x.  Should always lag through lesser material into greater.  Some heavy reading on the web about withdrawl ratings of fasteners and proper techniques.  "Hot-dipped" galvanized 1/2 bolts best even though code doesn't specify galvanized.  Flash over the top of the ledger to protect fasteners and points of penetration.  Flashing should have a drip edge (angle down) to prevent water from flowing on the underside and back to the house.  How well is the rim joist attached to the house?  What type of sheathing is on the house?   

7. 
   toast953 | Aug 07, 2003 08:23am | #15

   I didn't see what size ledger you are using, sooo, a suggestion, on the house side, you might possible, use a larger size ledger board, to give some more area, for points of attachments. Sounds like a fun project, so have fun with it. Seems to me, I keep forgeting that, fun, have fun while working. Be safe out there Jim J

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Aug 08, 2003 02:17am | #16

   Our NC residential building code (as well as our inspectors) will only accept through bolts (w/ nuts and washers) - 5/8" H.D. galvanized.  Lag bolts are not acceptable.  Bolts must be 18" O.C.  for decks that extend > 8' from house, 36" O.C. for decks < 8'.   A bolt may not be closer that 2.5" to the edge of the ledger board.   There are nailing requirements too.

   With the new IRC (modified for NC) aluminum flashing is not acceptable between the ledger and the house.  Must be galvanized steel, etc.

   Matt

8. 
   TommyB12 | Aug 08, 2003 03:09am | #17

   I'm a big fan of overkill on ledger fastening.  I think the strongest method is to attach ledger directly to framing.  Preferable through-bolted with hd galv. 2 @ 16" on center.  But I'm ok with 2 lags on 16" o.c. with a carriage bolt every other pair. 

   In your situation, hitting the plate dead center can be tricky.  If you creep up just a quarter or so, your not leaving alot of wood above the lag even if you are going for the bottom of the two plates.    I would try and though bolt them if going with just one screw every space. 

   Thats the reason why we put in alot of them.  The incremental cost when you have all the tools out is negligible.  And you really have to try to weaken a ledger by over fastening.

   Tom

1. 
   abw12 | Aug 09, 2003 06:13am | #18

   I'd like to thank you all for your replies, it is quite helpful.

   Today I reviewed the location, as I am finalizing the plans (already have the permit going to start with the 5 4 foot holes soon). Im using 2x6 joists 16" oc (the longest span is slightly less than 7 feet) and a 2x8 Ledger. In my reviewing, I've noticed that I can position the ledger so that one bolt goes into/through the (double) sill, and that a second goes through the rim joist of the house. The mud sill is two 2x6's...if I used an 8 or 9 inch bolt I could install a nut and washer on the inside, that way I'd have two through bolts every 16" or so inches.

   Edited 8/23/2003 8:04:05 PM ET by abw12