Replies

1. 
   zendo | May 05, 2005 01:19am | #1

   Jury a drill press.

   or use its concepts-  Id think if it like a dowel holer and create a guide rod.  Have a tube just wider than your bit from the surface of the concrete up.  The longer the tube the more plumb your hole. 

   Throw a few bubbles on the tube or your magnetic level.  Rig up some adjustable clamps or brackets to hold the rod in place.

   -zen

    

1. 
   zendo | May 05, 2005 01:22am | #2

   Oh at the concrete surface you should probably have a gap or a tube sleeve with holes cut in the sides to allow for the waste to exit.

   you could cut into the guide rod itself as well.

   Like a compensator or mussel break on a firearm.

   -zen

   Edited 5/4/2005 6:38 pm ET by zendo

2. 
   Sphere | May 05, 2005 01:55am | #3

   Long bit, and a traffic cone.

   edit: never mind, you used the "perfect" word.

   That is next to impossible.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    

   Adomition, beckons predition to the eyes of the soul...or  What?

    

   Why look here?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/4/2005 6:58 pm ET by SPHERE

3. 
   silver77 | May 05, 2005 02:30am | #4

   A dumb question... but if they're close, couldn't they be straightened with a small sledge after the epoxy sets?? 

   It works with suretites which is a giant lag for holding newels. I beat 'em plumb after they're

   set...into wood but the idea's the same... 

   silver

1. 
   Cy | May 05, 2005 02:38am | #5

   My cheapo 3/8" drill had a bubble level on the end. Maybe you can plumb the drill in a vise, then stick on one of those stick-on bubble levels. I don't know how accurate it is.

1. 
   pyroman | May 05, 2005 06:31am | #11

   I thought about taping some levels to it. Seemed gaudy and makes one think "there's got to be a better way," thus why I'm asking, otherwise I'll be taping levels on tomorrow morning.

2. 
   pyroman | May 05, 2005 06:30am | #10

   I guess I could  "beat 'em plumb" if they're off a little, but bear in mind these are 1" hardened steel rods, not sure much they'll move with a little friendly persuasion from the business end of my hammer.

1. 
   silver77 | May 05, 2005 07:35am | #13

   How about drilling a slightly oversize hole close to plumb...you could make 2  90 degree wood squares that act as guides parallel to the bit and drill close to plumb and then shim deadnuts when they're set in the epoxy...

   silver

4. 
   DaneB | May 05, 2005 02:44am | #6

   rock drill like used in a quarry.

   Dane

   I will always be a beginner as I am always learning.

5. 
   fireball | May 05, 2005 02:56am | #7

   Rent a core drill.

6. 
   rasconc | May 05, 2005 03:48am | #8

   Drop some big buck at the rental store and get one of the super duper drill things.

   http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-15178

   View Image

1. 
   ProBozo | May 05, 2005 06:00am | #9

   Don't confuse him, RASCONCThat there thing is for drilling horizontal holes in a wall. He is needin' to drill into the floor! You gots to find a vertical picture of it. :)

1. 
   pyroman | May 05, 2005 06:32am | #12

   Ha hah ha, yeah, can ya just flip the picture, please?

7. 
   SteveInCleveland | May 05, 2005 02:09pm | #14

   Is the concrete itself really one foot thick?

    

    

    

   "Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words."  - St. Francis of Assisi

1. 
   frontiercc | May 05, 2005 02:30pm | #15

   I agree with Rascong.  I watched a crew from AL beef up a chain link fence.  That involved adding additional vertical posts for support.  Like 6" diameter poles.  They used a similar rig to bore through the concrete and the poles were plumb after the holes were drilled.  I would think a larger rental center would have one.  Watch the bit rental- that's where they get ya.

2. 
   pyroman | May 05, 2005 03:36pm | #16

   No,concrete is morelike 4" thick