Have an issue with my new Bosch table saw. I’ve aligned everything according to the manual. Blade is perp to table, fence is paralell to the blade etc etc.
When I am ripping a piece of wood though, it cuts fine until the wood reaches the back of the blade. When it gets here it is more difficult to push the piece through the rest of the cut. On a piece of ply I was test cutting, there are burn marks from the blade and you can see they are at the back of the blade.
As far as I can tell, everything is aligned perfectly. Could the blade be warped or something?
Any ideas?
Replies
Blade warpage could be the problem.
Cheap blade getting hot when cutting can also do it.
Fence could be flexing from the front to the back.
The way I checked my saw ----- was to take the gaurd off & make about a 2" long rip into a piece of scrap then flip that piece over & slide it in from the back side.
If everything is lined up the blade will slide right into the cut that you made.
OH BTW turn the table saw off when sliding wood in from back side.
I don't set my fence dead paralell with the blade, I let the back drift off a heavy 64th or so. That will get ya in the ball park.
It sounds like the blade is heeling in the kerf or the kerf is closeing up and pinching...have a splitter installed?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Yep the splitter is installed and properly set too.
Your blade is to tight to the fence on the back side. Might barely be measureable with typical carpentry tools but as you see in the burn marks, it exists.
Now you have to figure whether the arbor or the fence is the right one to adjust. Check reference to the table slots for parrallel.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
How do you adjust the arbor?
When I say arbor adjustment, I mean the orientation of the blade/motor to the table. Your book should cover that detail. most TS adjustmets start with that one, then procede to the other adjustments.I have fallen in love with the Bosch from a distance but Mine are a Grizzly 1022 heavy and a DW on the job so I don't know the specifics for the Bosch. The DW is a bear to get just right on the fence adjust. Like Sphere, I keep it a bit loose on the feed side, but then that makes it too tight and impossible to bevel rip on the left side.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
If its the new 10" table saw, I am thinking its four allen socket head screws, under the table, and inline with the blade. It would appear, that if all four socket head screws were removed, the motor, and blade guard/sawdust shoot, (under the table top) would allow you to remove the motor for service. However, lets not do that. Its a matter of just making those socket head screws a little loose, and tapping the motor with a rubber mallet, to move it counter, or clockwise, just ever so slight. A good idea, before you start, is to make referance from where you started from, so you can find your way back to the orginal spot, if things get worse.
But this is somewhat simplified. Remember, this is a "portable" tablesaw, nice, but not a cabinet saw. Getting it dead nuts accurate, is good pratice, but maybe a waste of time. That is just my opinion........................Pop
Pop, this is my next step. I put new blade in, re-aligned the fence, re-aligned the splitter. Nothing.
I am going to try aligning the blade to the table next. You are correct, there are screws that are under the table both front and back to make this adjustment.
The blade seems to be paralell to the mitre slot. I can't detect any variance but there is definitely something wrong. It's very hard to push a piece through towards the end of the cut. You can even hear a difference once the piece gets to the back of the saw blade.
Odd though. 1x material slides through fairly well. 2x though gets hung up. Both though dont go as smooth as they should.
I don't think this is your problem, but you should be aware of it any way. Some woods, Poplar, comes to mind, (and there are others), looks nice and straight, a great looking board or boards, for what ever project you start. Then when you start to rip them, the inner stress of the wood is released, and the damn board will walk off the tablesaw by its self! There maybe others who read this comment that might be able to tell from looking at the board surface or endgraind of a board whether it will move or not. Good luck with the portable tablesaw.............Pop
Bosch Table Saw Fence: Sorry to bring this thread back to life again but seems no matter what I do, I get "snipe" at the back of the blade when ripping. The fence always seems to kick in toward the blade a slight bit when you clamp the handle down.
I've aligned everything as mentioned in the manual and i've got it to an acceptable level but I can still feel more resistance as the piece gets to the back of the blade.
Any suggestions? Bad fence maybe?
ps - I know that this table saw isnt supposed to be a dead on kind of saw but i've owned a Dewalt in the past and it worked smooooth.
Could be. I have a bosch table saw and think its great. Didnt think that about my first one though. I had a bad fence. I was totally bummed out after everyone here talked the saw up. I returned it and have had no problem with the new one.
BTW my fence does that little jump when I clamp it too. It doesnt knock it out of parallel though. If you really need an acurate cut, try sliding out the extension a bit setting the fence then fine tune the adjustment by moving the sliding table. That way you can set the fence without have to compensate for the little jump.
How are you aligning the fence to the blade?
Take a magic marker and mark ONE tooth on the blade for a reference.
Then that a block of wood and screw in a brass screw.
Move the fence with the block of wood against it and the screw just touching the refenced tooth at the front of the saw. Then slide the block to the back of the saw and rotate the blade so tath it is again so that you are again using the same referenced tooth. If it just touches the tooth then it is exactly parallel.
For more accuracy you can use feeler gauges between the tooth and brass screw and use that to adjust the outfeed end a little looser.
If does not matter whether the blade is aligned to the top or not.
However if do adjust the blade to top then it will throw off the fence adjustment. Likewise check for any play in the fence, in the arbor, or mounting of the arbor to the top.
If you do want to adjust (or check) the arbor alignment to the top take the block of wood and clamp it to the mitre gauge again with the brass screw just touching the referenced tooth. then move it to the back and rotate the blade and the scew should just touch the rference tooth.
Got one myself and I moved the blade over on the outfeed side to keep the blade marks to a minum.
the allen bolt line up with the blade on the back just under the top and over the dust port---nice and clear--right?
IAC it has been flawless for me ever since--the adjustment was very slight---
I don't have a cross cut sled for the saw but if I did just know if you kick the mount over you wont be parrall to the mitre slots any more. BTW--with all dialed in and proper supports I have made lots of on site cabinets with very nice result.--
So I am officially a fan of the saw and Boschs' stuff in general--
Mike
"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Yeah, I thought about doing that Mike but I want it to remain paralell to the miter slot too. Call me a perfectionist I guess. Did you encounter the same resistance before you opened up the back end a bit?
Get a straight edge and check the fence to see if it is straight.And if you have not already tried it try a new blade.
I've done both. Thats why I'm at a loss here. The fence kicks in out of paralell when you clamp it down. I've adjusted it many times too and it just doesnt clamp paralell
Take a straight edge and align with the blade at its edge, with the blade up. That will give the most bearing for the alignment of the straight edge. Lets say the straight edge is a 2 x 36" aluminum . Then on the other side of the straight edge clamp a fence/board replacing what would be the normal fence. Now rip a piece using the aligned fence. If cut is bind free now move on to next check.
Check alignment with the table, if that's good then next on to the fence. If the fence is slipping it's lock or? get your receipt and phone and get jiggy with Bosch. Within a day they will fix you up.
Did you encounter the same resistance?Don't really recall any serious binding--did it mostly to cut down on saw marks---I rarely crosscut anything on the saw so the mitre slot issue didn't come into play.Clay had some good tips---but really if all else fails give Bosch a call---I have found them helpful--expecially if you let them know you worked on it and didn't just automataclly jump on the phone..Call me a perfectionist---it is the same with me that got me to bump the blade over---One thing I did remember is the on my saw the black end piece was a whisker proud of the alum. part of the fence---couple smooth swipes with the file and it planed right out. Hope it all works out for you. I guess with any tool, they pay the employees to assemble them and get them close--I have yet to have any precision tool that didn't at least some fine tuning---at least you do it once and your done.Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Mike and all the rest who helped here. I called Bosch on Monday and explained my situation. Told them that I tried and tried to get it aligned.
The technician I spoke with immediately said no prob and mailed me out a new fence. Got it today. Not a single adjustment needed. The saw works like a charm now. Cheers to Bosch customer service. I'm one happy customer.
L
I am glad to hear it--I have found Bosch easy to work with.Knowing what you paid for it I believe you'll get plenty of good service out of it---After my initial adjustment I haven't had to mess with it since--Been 2-3 year now and it is in and out of my van every week.Did you get the folding stand (my personal favorite) or the Gravity stand?How about the slide out extentions? both back and side?Mine came with the back and I bought the side--both I have found useful. Glad you like it--now go cut something---Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Yes, I got the folding stand, its really nice and the rear outfeed. Maybe pick up the side one soon.