For all who have done this (we’re gonna use Logix ICF), please give us some hints.
This is a “receptacles in the exterior walls” bit, some of them under windows in the ICF walls, some with no windows above.
Our wiring is coming from overhead, of course. I’m presuming we’ll drop into each box with the shortest possible route, doing a down-over-down where we go under windows, and a simple down-only where we’ve no window.
Sawcut the box holes? Chainsaw? Hot knife? Simple slit cuts for the runs? Horizontal runs along block joint lines? Avoiding the plastic inserts?
All technique hints are appreciated.
Replies
An electric chainsaw makes nice slits for romex. After hearing it here we've also used a big grinder to slit the foam.
Make sure you choose boxes that will fit in the depth of the foam, or slit the foam where the box goes, push the foam plug in the required depth and use spray foam to glue the plug in place.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Don
Logix has 2 3/4" of foam each side compared to the usual 2 1/2" of foam. Anything except a deep box wil fit nicely.
Gene,
The chainsaw Don mentioned should have something on it to limit the cut depth. Mine has a plastic wheel on a bolt axle through the bar. An electrician I know just used the bolt. My electric was the cheapest available - a Poulan. It takes its cooling air intake from the front of the tool. Big mistake. The first time I used it, it ran for less than an hour before it shut down because it was so full of melted foam. Don't get one of these. Get something else. Tape a piece of window screen over the intake.
That electrician would rather do an ICF job than a wooden house. It's easier. Less drilling and pulling wire.
In some jusrisdictions it is necessary to fasten electrical boxes to the concrete core. Tapcons are good for that because you can drill the right size hole right through the back of the box.
If you want to, you can put water pipes in the exterior walls of an ICF house. It can give you a bit more flexibility in design.
Ron
I have used a router and it worked well . Wow did make alot of little white BBs !
Tim
Gene - I found plastic boxes at lowes that have a flange on one side, 2-1/2" deep - perfect for ICFs - 2 screw to the web/stud & they'll stay. I tapconned a few flangeless round boxes to the concrete for lights etc.
The wiring was simple - a $25 electric chainsaw (Remington) - no bar oil, no jig - the concrete limits the depth of cut. Its still going strong (strong enough for foam anyway) I used Amvic forms - it was easy to miss the plastic webs if you watched what you were doing. We cut for boxes and wiring runs with the chainsaw - its loud! Use the bag in your shop vac since the little white beads will clog it fast otherwise.
Lots of horizontal runs box to box - no problem. 14, 12, 10 wire all presses nicely in to the kerf as deep as the concrete & stays. We put a dab of foam near each box, but the inspector was pleased even without it - your mileage may vary.
I ran my wiring in Reward ICF's horizontally, box to box. Made my cuts with a short blade in a cordless Ryobi sawzall. Cut boxes out with that, too. Ryobi makes a chain saw for 18V that probably would work well.