Replies

1. 
   Mike_Mahan | Apr 05, 2014 10:19am | #1

   Think tankless.

1. 
   Clewless1 | Apr 28, 2014 08:32am | #12

   That's it? Think tankless

   Not much substance to such a recommendation. Any reason you feel tankless is 'the only way to think'?

   People here seem to want to know why to do something as well as what to do. Their thoughts and actions have depth and breadth.

   Additional information/dialogue would enhance your response greatly.

2. 
   DanH | Apr 05, 2014 12:28pm | #2

   We still have the same electric unit (pretty sure it's State)  that was installed in 1976.  Last drained it about 15 years ago.

   But it's always been on filter and water softener.  And did have to replace the thermostats and elements once each.

   And it will be replaced in about 2 weeks, since I figure we're on borrowed time.

   I recall my parents' gas unit (unknown brand) developed a hole after about 5 years.  This would have been about 1965.  My impression has always been that the life of gas units is far less than the life of electric units.  Dunno if power vent units are apt to live longer or shorter than standard draft units.

   In general, tankless is a dumb idea - only worth it for situations where hot water use is intermittent, or where there's simply no room for the tank.

3. 
   user-1116010 | Apr 06, 2014 08:07am | #5

   water heater care / maintenance

   There are many factors that contribute to a gas water heaters demise: excessive pressure, contaminated combustion air, accumulated scale  & sediment, water condition issues, water treatment issues, voc's, high operating temperatures, internal rust, neglect, external leaks, and usage patterns - perhaps the heater is undersized and overworked.

   Water heaters under the influence of softened water will experience a faster sacrifice of their anode rods, which will shorten tank life; water heaters that are sold with extended warrantees  ( 10 year or more ), have two or more sacrificial anodes - this adds to tank life. Tanks that are drained & flushed yearly will have much less scale build up; layered sediment prevents the bottom of the tank from benefiting from the anodes sacrificial protection....................spend some time on the " waterheaterrescue.com " website, you'll be glad you did.........

1. 
   DanH | Apr 05, 2014 03:22pm | #3

   You don't mention acidic water, which is no doubt a major factor.  And gas water heaters often rust through the heat exchanger, due to condensation from the combustion gasses.

1. 
   user-1116010 | Apr 05, 2014 05:00pm | #4

   blanket statement

   I did list water condition issues, and yes, low ph will adversely affect most components of a domestic water supply system. I rarely install any new water heating equipment without the aide of a water quality analysis........

1. 
   btbhfh92 | Apr 06, 2014 11:25am | #6

   user-1116010 wrote:

   I did list water condition issues, and yes, low ph will adversely affect most components of a domestic water supply system. I rarely install any new water heating equipment without the aide of a water quality analysis........

   Thank you, 1116010 for your informative responses - appreciate the advice of pro's on a forum; afterall, this is on your dime and you're giving free advice...thanks!

   What I've gathered from all the posts is that "that's life!," with a water heater, given that water source is so varied and unpredictable.  The first poster replied to early demise of heaters in a manner reflecting my experience from the 70's.  Which, so far on this thread is unexplainable i.e. if the variables haven't changed markedly from 1960 to 2014 - that is to say consumer behavior and environmental conditions - then that can only lead to manufacturing for the cause of the once enduring water heater.  In my case, I used to work as a plumber when my back worked, and as such am diligent about such routine maintenance on water heaters, furnaces et al.  So if both my Bradford White units failed in a relativelyt short time span of 11 years, someting is wrong.

   I'm curious, too that no one mentioned a prefereed brand.  I'm assuming then they're all pretty much built the same and brand plays no factor in this discussion.

   I will go to the site you mentioned for further information.  Thanks to all posters who responded - appreciate it.

   Regards, Bob

1. 
   DanH | Apr 06, 2014 04:33pm | #7

   In theory, all of the brands are better than they  used to be.  They've gone from glass-lined tanks to plastic-lined ones (and the plastic does not crack and craze like the glass did), styrofoam insulation vs haphazard fiberglass, etc.

   But the heat exchanger of the gas unit is its Achilles' Heel -- it can't readily be plastic coated, and it must be kept thin to meet efficiency standards.

2. 
   user-1116010 | Apr 07, 2014 07:43am | #8

   water heater upkeep

   Bob,

              The importance of water heater maintenance, and proper operation, cannot be overstated. Layered scale / sediment, and warm temps, can provide the perfect environment for certain harmful bacteria ( legionella ). We always prefer to set water heater operating temps at or above 140 degress  F, and, install a thermostatic tempering valve on the hot water delivery piping where scalding may be a risk. Higher tank temperatures can prevent bacteria from flourishing.

             An educated, motivated diyer, with a moderate level of skill, can extend the life of their tank style water heater twofold or more, by performing a thorough, annual maintenance........... 

   ,

4. 
   renosteinke | Apr 08, 2014 11:28am | #9

   Do you have an expansion tank hooked up to your water heater?

   Expansion tanks are more often used for larger water heaters and water-based heating systems. They allow room for the water to expand as it heats- saving a lot of stress on the tank and the plumbing. They're simple to add, and quite affordable.

   Can't hurt.

1. 
   DanH | Apr 08, 2014 06:40pm | #10

   Only necessary if there's a pressure regulator or backflow valve upstrream of the heater.

1. 
   renosteinke | Apr 16, 2014 12:03pm | #11

   Seam Splitting?

   From the OP's description, it sounds like his tanks are splitting on a seam. That would be caused by pressure - not corrosion. Hence the question about the pressure tank / accumulator.