I tried a search but didn’t come up with anything on this subject.
I will be bidding on a house which has to be moved. It is wood framed with an exterior brick. As the house sits now the brick rests on concrete which appears to be the actual foundation wall. As far as I can tell there is no obvious brick ledge.
My question is when building the new foundation (poured concrete) what would be the best way to support the brick or a least some options that I could research and consider.
I’ve spoken to a concrete contractor and a couple of house movers but am not sure they have the best ideas on how to do a brick ledge.
Thanks in advance.
Replies
my question would be how are you going to move a house with the brick?
You cant move the foundation and if the brick is resting on it, how are you going to keep the brick? sorry I must be missing something..?
arthur
That is what I hire the movers to do. It will be trimmed at the point where the brick is even with the top of the foundation.
They will support it and move the house. I know both of the movers I am getting bids from have done this before. I just don't know exactly what the best way to set up the new foundation is.
Edited 4/12/2007 6:40 pm ET by 5brown1
What are the remaining components of the house which is being moved intact?
Is the exterior wall solid brick or masonry veneer (wood stud frame with an exterior wythe of 4" brick)?
Wood floor joists sitting on a continuous wood sill plate?
Is the bottom of the first course of brick at the same elevation as the bottom of the wood sill plate?
I'm not sure what you mean by "remaining components.
The house is a 1990 wood framed structure with a 4" brick exterior attached.
I have not been able to get inside yet to see but I am sure the floor joists rest on 2 x 8 top plate.
The brick exterior extends to the bottom of the 2 x 8 plate or possibly further. I cannot tell from the outside. I hope to be able to get in early next week to inspect.
Both movers I spoke to tell me they will cut a mortar joint even with (or as close as they can get to) the bottom of that 2 x 8 plate.
the brick rests on the foundation. Usually we run a foundation at a thickness of 12" until grade then we change to 8" block at grade. Thats why your brick sits at ground/grade level.
I assume your house being lifted because the foundation has failed? if thats the case they will form your new foundation in the same manner. i dont see how they will save the brick though myself.
I have also seen angle iron bolted to the house but that would have to hold a lot of weight,. Not sure why the mason had no clue on not how to do something so common.
Edited 4/12/2007 8:17 pm ET by AllTrade
This will be a poured foundation. Block does not handle our gumbo and shale soils.The foundation has not failed. This is a house that was purchased by the Corps of Engineers in a buyout of homes with flood potential. They then sell the houses which have to be moved to an area where they are no longer in danger of flooding. I think that tomorrow I will dig down along the foundation and see if I can determine how it was built.
in the same manner I spoke of most likley.
In that case we would form the whole wall out at 12" then before pouring we would install a 2x4 in the form to not allow the cement to come up higher than grade where the brick would sit but the cement would be allowed to flow high enough in all the other areas to allow for our sill plate to be above grade.
Another way is to pour the wall at 12" then install 8" block above grade to allow for the ledge.
Edited 4/13/2007 6:44 am ET by AllTrade
Nice looking and very useful. I have carried 16 foot LVLs and 2X material the same length. Cost? 0, it was my 70th birthday present.
al