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Ann;
Amen to the questions raised by Mike Smith (climate,..) but let me offer another perspective. You could consider 4×4 pressure treated posts set in piers with the pavers set on tamped sand. If you are in a frost area the piers (set below the frost line) would keep the structure from heaving. You could forgo sill plates and footers altogether and approach the bldg. from a post and beam perspective.
Alot would depend on how “tight” you want the bldg. to be.
There are important considerations to keep in mind when building a slab-on-grade home with continuous insulation.
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Replies
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Ann;
Amen to the questions raised by Mike Smith (climate,..) but let me offer another perspective. You could consider 4x4 pressure treated posts set in piers with the pavers set on tamped sand. If you are in a frost area the piers (set below the frost line) would keep the structure from heaving. You could forgo sill plates and footers altogether and approach the bldg. from a post and beam perspective.
Alot would depend on how "tight" you want the bldg. to be.
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Ann:
All above advice is good, however the recommendation for modular pavers puzzles me. Maybe it's a regional lingo thing, but around here, what the brick manufacturers call modular pavers are 3 5/8" x 7 5/8" and come in thicknesses of 2 ½" and 1 5/8" (thin). We also call 'em mortar in pavers. Then you have your 4" x 8" pavers, which also come in the above 2 thicknesses. The 4"x8" are the ones that are easiest to work with assuming your are talking about a dry (no mortar) installation, which is, I gather, what you want.
I believe that the siding you are referring to is called Dutch lap.
*dammit matt... there's that deja-vu thing again..does this conversation go back about 5 months?here modular refers to any size so long as 2 bricks are as wide as one is long..a common brick size is not modular because they need the mortar joint to make up the missing thickness..so they can't be laid without a gap in any of the fancy patterns..now someone else has to come back with a reference to the Brick Institure of America and someone else has to come back with a differnt regional accepted useage..reminds me of (((Groundhog Day))))b but hey, whadda i know?
*What kind of boat fits in a 7' x 9' boathouse?
*If it's a big enough cupola ... maybe a vertical canoe?
*One that sits on bricks.....
*Mike:Yes, we've had this conversation before - although I didn't remember it until you brought it up - then did a BT search. Here is the page I referenced before. Must be a regional language difference. Just for laughs, check with one of your local brick yards. By the way, in RI, what's the actual size of a modular wall brick?
*matt.. don't have the slightest clue wat size a modular WALL brick is.. dint evn no they wuz suc a animal...big pavers around here are Boston City Hall,..wch is not a modular, so it is only used in tradtional herring bone or running bond patterns..and any number of modular , Jersey Shale comes to mind...the modulars can also be laid in tight basket weave, since there is no head space when you rotate them......i dont care wat yur regional vernacular is...wen i use the term MODULAR next to BRICK i simply mean that two are exactly as wide as one is longso in a job description it wud look like this..(((we will use MODULAR BRICK pavers as mfr'd by.....))))here's a basket -weave with a soldier course border
*Hmm ... if you follow the general rule for sizing cupolas (one inch of base width for each twelve inches of ridge length) this would produce a cupola 9" on a side. Pretty small.
*as Matt pointed out to me.. those are NOT soldier course brick.... so i looked it up and he was right again... the borders are ((SAILORS))....hmmmm..who'd a thunk it?
*Hi Ann,Hey, are you going to get a permit for that, Unless it is back a hundred feet or so it will need to be moved (once discovered), be sure to include handles and save up for the fine.Also: Ditto - What kind of boat goes in that size of a shed? A rubber raft? Paddle boat?I'm not saying that you will have to get a permit, but you should know the regulations and the repercussions if you don't comply.b No sheds in my sight lines to the water, Please.
*Hi again Ann,I see you're in Minnesota, Cabin too? Setbacks will definitely apply and so will code. If you even want to try closer to the shore, you will have to get past the DNR and I can't remember them ever backing down and allowing a variance. Same in neighboring states.Unless that shed was there before and looks kind of "say old" and built during the night and .....and....
*You bring up a very good point about the boat house. It's really a misnomer. It should be called a "boat stuff" house, because it will house paddles, life preservers, gasoline, fishing gear, and other "fish" stuff. All of this is currently stored under our "1 season", screened summer porch, or in the cabin itself. I imagine I'll still have leeches and worms in the refrigerator, but the majority of the fishing stuff will be stored in the shed. And that's partly why a brick floor is desirable to me, since gasoline cans will be stored in there. We're designing the shed in the style of the feature shed for Garden Shed magazine, and using the cupola directions from a Fine Homebuilding magazine.
*Sounds nice. The cupola sizing rule I learned from Allen's Cupolas in Lansdale, PA. He makes beautifully crafted designs from old growth redwood. Hope no one wanders in looking for a midnight snack ...PS - Cushwa makes a really nice paving brick - not sure if you can get it up there.
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no need for a permit for any outbuilding that small (< 100 sq. ft.) here.
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I appreciate your concern about permits, and we have one. Actually, the permit is for a 10x15 boat shed, but we want to make it an aesthetically pleasing addition to our delightful woodland landscape, which includes a creek and bridge. We are the DNR poster family for our lake, as we have had permits for ALL construction, we are the only cabin for 1/2 mile that has a naturalized landscape that follows all DNR guidelines, and we follow all boating and fishing regulations. As far as sight lines go, the shed will interfere with no one's except our view of the neighbor's boat shed which resembles a poorly constructed outhouse. I also want to tell you guys that my husband and I REALLY appreciate this web site, because it's nice to get a lot of ideas and opinions on possible construction options. Thanks!
*We're from MN, but the cabin is in northern Wisconsin. We are following all guidelines to the letter and then some. It's not worth getting caught, and we happen to believe that rules are for a reason. Not following them sets a bad example for everybody.
*Mark,That would be a much more interesting contribution if you could give a hint as to where "here" is.Rich Beckman
*Sorry Mark, But in Wisconsin, you have to follow the DNR setbacks, and that will entail some or all of the following: a wetlands permit or dnr mitigation permit, a building permit, a zoning permit, a shoreline alteration permit. Also, like Anderson said, a variance could be obtained in some cases. I own land up there that I'm not even allowed to camp on without a portapottie service contract or a working septic system (mound in my case.)Ann, Please email my wife and explain about the need for leeches and other bait in refrigerators, and housed structures for boating essentials. While you're at it, tell her we need a new fishing boat too.TIA, MD
*Where Mark lives, of course.Geeeez
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My husband and I are planning to build a simple(but cute) 7'x9' boat house/storage shed with cupola at our lake cabin this summer. We have two questions; my husband suggested I contact the experts on breaktime. Question one concerns the floor and foundataion We'd really like to have a floor made of pavers or old fashioned brick, but we're not sure how to construct it without some kind of plywood floor to hold it all together. One idea was to have a pressure treated 2x4 frame underneath the shed that the sand and pavers would sit on and the sill plates would attach to. Another idea was footings, but it's so close to the water table they will be no fun at all to build. We'd like to avoid putting in a slab if possible. Would a frame of 4"x4" green treated timbers under the outside sill plates be enough foundation, or do we need to tie it together somehow? Any suggestions?
Question 2 concerns the siding. I would like to use the siding (I think its called German or Dutch) that's kind of like T&G. I'd like to use that instead of sheathing and siding so that it looks finished off on the inside. Will that work, or do we need sheathing?
*no idea where yur bildin or the depth of frost...but with that size, it don't matter muchget your base UNIFORM then lay yur PT 4x4 on top of your compacted gravel base..tamp sand , or gravel, or stone dust (your choice)and lay your brick right on the level , tamped base.MODULAR paving bricks lay easier and lend themselves to more patterns than common face brick..if it heaves, or moves ,, ignore it or pull up the offending brick and relay it...ir you want permanent,, yuv got to lay it on concrete, extending to a foundation below frost line..