I’ve got a brick wall fence that divides me from my neighbor (trailer court) to the rear. The fence is 5′ tall on my side, and 8′ tall on his, giving us 3′ of dirt agaist the wall. Wall was built in 1960, and is made of 24″x8″x5″ cinderblocks.
Along this wall are a number of mature Italian Cypress trees that are about 30′ tall. There is also a Yucca type tree between two of the cypresses. The trunks of the cypress trees are about 12″ from the fence. It looks like the yucca tree has one branch that has pushed against the wall and is buckling a section out. This section is 4 1/4″ out of plumbThere is nothing tying the fence into the higher side yard, and it has started tilting out. It’s about 3″ out of vertical right now where my lot line ends at my next door neighbors. The tilt extends about another 8 feet onto his yard.
My question is this: Besides the yucca that has onviously pushed on a section of the fence, are the cypress trees too close to the wall and are now pushing it out – or is this just earth settling against the wall pressing it out?
Also, is there any way of fixing this besides tearing it out, redoing the dirt, and putting it back in again? Can those trees be saved?
EDIT: What trade do I call who can tell me what is needed to be done for the brick wall?
EDIT: Corrected some measurements.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it’s because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Edited 9/9/2007 10:51 pm by xxPaulCPxx
Edited 9/10/2007 2:20 pm by xxPaulCPxx
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Added note: This came to our attention when the property manager came by to ask us about the trees and the fence. We also just got a letter from them wanting to take action about our common boundry. They are are talking about going 50/50 on costs which seems reasonable, but I want to make sure we don't do a slash and burn project.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
I'm no expert, but have built 4 retaining walls on my property. The common thing these days are mortarless walls. This means if the wall starts bulging again, worse case, just take down the blocks, dig, and re stack. A bit of a pain, but not the end of the world, either.I'd try to save the trees. Full grown trees are valuable (I'm sure you neighbors like the shade too).Sounds like you need a 3' retaining wall (not a huge investment) and a 5' privacy screen...perhaps shrubbery?
also, the 50/50 split seems fair.
Might be the trees can be saved, but the wall is toast.
Besides Ghostbusters (da da da da da da da, du du du du - da da da) what trade would I call to look at the wall?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Hard to say. If you want to do it right you need a retaining wall first, with the other wall on top. Requires a foundation for the wall, maybe a poured retaining wall or at least deadmen on the uphill side. Not simply a job of laying up a block wall.The people who know how to do it won't want to. The ones that want to won't know how (or won't bother if they know). Not cheap.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
That is what I was thinking was needed - poured retaining wall and brick layed on top. I'm really hoping the trees can be saved - I'll try to find a good arborist for that.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Looking up Retaining walls comes up with a number of mortarless block systems. I don't see any of them with brick walls built on top of them. I guess I got some calls to make.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Not much real experience in such things, but my opinions are availabel anyway!!
The trees can probably be saved, but would it be worth it? If a big tree spade equipped truck can get within reach, it would be easy, although not cheap. Civil engineer can probably tell you what sort of wall is best for your conditions. The mortarless walls usually have a maximum height, anything over will require re enforcements of some sort.
I would bet that a poured concrete wall turns out cheapest, but the digging will likely kill the trees if they don't get moved first. Good luck
Dan
I went and looked at it again today and made some more measurements. It looks like a 50' section is what is out of whack. I had thought the whole wall was tipping over, but it looks like the first three courses are intact. Unfortunatly it's sounding like no one makes the bricks anymore that were used (24"x8"x5").
Is it hard getting mortar off a block - say with my Bosch Bulldog and a wide flat chisel bit?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Why do you think the trees are in danger? The wall will not hurt the trees. If a tree is touching the wall you can beat that wind action will slowing move the wall.
If you need to get in and dig the wall out, then you are in jeopardy of severely damaging tree roots.
Why can't you go out and do some very very detailed measurements of the lean on the wall. And then repeat the measurements next year and see if you have any significant movement. A 3" lean on an 8 foot high wall might stand for decades if you remove any trees (Yucca) presuring the wall.
Of course you might have a liability issue which might precipitate a premature removal of the wall. That is your/lawyers/trailer park management call.
First remove wall. Then remove trees.
Replace wall footing. I'm thinking 10" thick footing with 2' leg sticking under the 3' side of soil and 1' side opposite. 3'10" wide footing. Your engineer may shrink that.
replant trees.
SamT