This detail is on a set of plans, it’s for a brick screen wall around the outside a/c units. I have asked the archy for an explanation of the “thru wall flashing” but did not get an answer that I could understand. My Q is, what’s the purpose of the flashing when both sides of the wall will get wet? He tried to explain that it will keep moisture from seeping down onto the lowest brick, but then I pointed out that would require a piece of full-width horizontal flashing, and that would be a bond breaker between the courses.
“Put your creed in your deed.” Emerson
“When asked if you can do something, tell’em “Why certainly I can”, then get busy and find a way to do it.” T. Roosevelt
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I don't see much point in doing what he's proposing. It would make more cents to me to thru flash at the top under the wash.
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Edited 1/7/2009 12:37 pm ET by seeyou
Edited 1/7/2009 12:37 pm ET by seeyou
I think it's an un needed detail, and agree that it weakens the brick bond.
I'd maybe insert the counter flashings as the brick is layed, but keep the two sides separate at the brick holes. lead is ideal for this and I assume you are still near Williamsburg, it would be appropos.
LOL Seeyou can't spell sense.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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This one is actually on the north side of Baltimore and there are no historic issues involved."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I'd still install lead counters as the lay up proceeds, if not , some schmuck like me has to cut them in w/ a grinder..laying on his back and dust in his face.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
"This one is actually on the north side of Baltimore and there are no historic issues involved."
Eddie, I built that same wall for my brother in Towson, MD about ten years ago. The bricks, with the matching coping bricks came from Glen-Gary. It was a straight wall about 5-ft. high. I was concerned about wind and installed several rebar dowels from the footing into the middle of the wall.
Otherwise it was basic masonry. I filled the collar joints solidly with mortar and made sure to keep both the bed and head joints full. I used a concave jointer and packed the joints tight. I used Type S masonry cement. I didn't use any flashing; I never have for a garden or retaining wall. There haven't been any problems with efflorescence and the wall still looks great.
This building will be on York Rd near the traffic circle in Towson."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
"I think it's an un needed detail, and agree that it weakens the brick bond."
I agree. I happen to be at my mother's house, which I built in 1980. The house sits a few blocks from the Atlantic Ocean in Ocean City, MD. In the front of the house there's a brick planter, the walls of which are one brick-wythe thick. On both the front and back of the house there are brick steps. One set has five risers; the other has four. I also laid a brick column to support the mail box.
All four of these structures are esposed to the elements. None of these structures has flashing or weep holes. And they all still look great. I laid them up when I was 30 years old; I'll be 60 (ugh) in August.
The detail that the architect specified doesn't make sense to me. To begin with, what is to keep water that gets into the wall from running behind the upturned leg of the flashing?
In your climate, the worst that could happen from water infiltration would be efflorescence. On a wall laid up with full joints, very little water will get in on the sides of the wall. The main concern is water that sits on the tops and seeps down. For this reason, through flashing is often specified just under the top layer of bricks. However, with the curved-topped units that are shown in the drawing, very little water should sit along the top.
I've built numerous garden walls, sets of stairs and fully grouted masonry walks and terraces without flashing. In my opinion, the emphasis should be placed on getting the right bricks (should be rated SW {severe weather}) and making sure the joints are full and packed. This includes the collar joint between the two wythes of brick.