I have a hose bib that sticks up out of the ground..It is only a matter of time before it gets broken. I want to pour a 3 foot by 3foot slab around it and plumb it for a manual sprinkler system with three valves set inside an access box. Then brick it up about 40 inches. This access box will be set into the brick. I will build a gable roof in my shop to slip over the last 2-3 courses. At the 3rd course from the top I will embed metal ties in he mortar joint that stick out about 3 inches. I wll use these to screw into the roof structure.
Will a single wall of brick be stable enough for this project? would it be smarter to do a very rough stud wall and wrap it in osb, then use brick ties.
Do I need to do a brick sill? There wont be anything in sid e this structure (except the inevitable spders.)
Do you think that the metal ties @ the 3rd course down will be strong enough to keep the roof on?
thanks
Replies
Its a lot of extra work I would not do. Closest thing done like that is a wishing well, which does not get much use.
Back to the brick work. A singles row will work, if you wet them first. Old timers, use to soak the bricks in barrels. Now, they don't soak or wet them. The dry bricks suck out the water too quickly out of the mortar, That is why you see wall caps falling off all the time
This is *anything but* an expert reply....but your post caught my eye. I'm a new HO, strictly wood 'til now, but amazed, with much help from a buddy, at our just-completed project in the basement. We extended an existing decorative brick wall 6' with another 8' high arched doorway. It matches! and a week later, is still standing.
I have no idea technically if a single course is adequate, but as someone who overbuilds by nature had a couple of thoughts: Instead of stud wall, maybe face the brick onto 1/2 thickness cinder blocks. Compare price vs. lumber, maybe do the corners in block and connect w/ studs/osb, just so you can make some sawdust on this job.
If you do use some hollowcore block, then at the top you could sink a few anchor bolts for a top plate for the roof to attach to. Beefier than brick ties, whether it's necessary or not.... IMHO, this would withstand any force of nature as well as runaway lawn tractors. And you could designate this the bomb shelter for family pets. Good Luck! Post a pic --in a couple of days..or months!
Ever heard the expression, "built like a brick sh*thouse?" The box that you are describing will be very strong and you don't need a wood frame. I wouldn't soak the bricks. Here's what the Portland Cement Association has to say about it:
The suction rates of concrete masonry units are low enough that they never require wetting prior to laying of mortar. Some clay brick units have such high suction rates that poor bond will result unless the brick are wetted; surfaces of the of the wetted brick should be dry before applying mortar.
I rarely come across bricks that need to be wetted. The most porous bricks I've worked with have been bricks salvaged from old buildings. Most modern bricks have low suction rates and will only need to be doused if they have been baking in the sun during the summer. If you do hose down a batch of bricks, make sure you allow the surface to dry before you lay them.
"I have a hose bib that sticks up out of the ground..It is only a matter of time before it gets broken."
It's also only a matter of tme before thehose bib breaks, leaks, or otherwise needs replacement.
Is there any way you can do this and leave it accessable for repair and/or replacement?
Boss is right. You wanna make this accessible for whatever. Add a line, extend , repair, something. Putting all this in ceement and brick sets you (or someone) up for removal and replacement somewhere down the line.
Can you extend your line (using less labor and cost) closer to your shed and bring it up in its wall? (I think that was already suggested.) Just leave your sprinkler controls in the traditional recessed plastic vaults in the ground.
Of course, depending upon the climate, I have run water lines out to the back gardens underground coming up behind a concrete block piller, as well as built into and coming out of the concrete wall so just the bib was accessible. Yours off the sprinkler lines means no water during shutdown season. Which is normal.
If you're set on the ceement, don't forget to include a drain below your spout. Or a shaped stone to direct spillage.
I am installing a shut off valve at 12 inches off the slab. That way i can isolate the sprinkler system for repairs as well as purge the lines before a freeze. Any repair will be able to be done by lifting th roof section off of the bricks. It is ony 3x3x4tall. The roof section should not be that heavy.
I think I am going to install a stud wall anyway..it is only a matter of three studs per side ....looks like...............12 2x4s and a 1x4 top plate..I have extra anchor bolts. Without a stud wall, If the wall ever gets hit by a tractor the bricks would collapse on the PVC line and that would be a prob. Plus..I plan on hanging a hose reel on it. Not that much extra work.