Replies

1. 
   PeterJ | Sep 30, 2009 05:25pm | #1

   Modules are the hallmark of pre-fab cabinets. Built to fit house is the realm of custom work. I prefer latter, but install lots of pre-fab.

    As long as you've got help to install and your cabs are solid, the full length cabs look nicer and are easier to install but somewhat harder to  build.

    

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

2. 
   hammer1 | Sep 30, 2009 05:38pm | #2

   I've worked many years as a custom cabinet builder. True custom cabinets are not a bunch of boxes screwed together. Very often a run will be a single cabinet. There are limitations to what makes a practical size. When a custom cabinet is built in more than one piece, it is made so it joins without a visible joint. You won't see a joint between every cabinet in true custom work, you may not see doors and drawers of varying widths either, and you won't see fillers placed to make the math work. Real custom cabinetry has a very different look than your typical manufactured boxes.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   renosteinke | Sep 30, 2009 06:37pm | #3

   There are plenty of little details that will bite you if you don't think this through completely.

   The first problem with 'one long cabinet' is hauling it to the site, getting it off the truck, and actually getting it into the kitchen.

   The second problem with 'one long cabinet' is the weight, and the difficulty of hanging it. True, aligning several smaller pieces can be a chore - but you're not trying to wrestle one massive piece.

   Less obvious is that the additional walls of smaller cabinets do contribute signifigant strength to the box, and support to the shelves. It's hard to build a seven foor shelf that doesn't sag - just under it's own weight.

   Having several 'modules' also makes it easier to have different arrangements for different uses. You can switch from shelves to vertical partitions to drawers and racks, with much greater ease.

   You might consider just putting a common front on separate modules, after they're hung.

4. 
   dovetail97128 | Sep 30, 2009 07:19pm | #4

   Other than the obvious issues of portability when installing there are no drawbacks to the 7' cabinet and a lot of pluses.
   Biggest plus is alignment , no messing around every 24", 30" or 36".

   Used to make them up to 12' long and install them with 2 guys to help maneuver them into place until I discovered dollys and hand carts.

   Life is Good
5. 
   Mongo | Sep 30, 2009 07:38pm | #5

   I used to always make them in long runs. Dry assemble in the shop, then knock down, transport, glue and screw assembly and finish on site. I'm in CT, 95% is face frame and paint finish.

   Takes a bit more planning but to me its well worth it. Fewer carcass "sides" with one divider serving adjacent boxes.. One integral cabinet back.

   Paint grade was always 3/4" birch ply boxes, 1/2" birch ply backs, and poplar face frames.

6. 
   ted | Sep 30, 2009 07:40pm | #6

   I've done both. And much prefer building modular. I don't always build in the standard widths or depths (12, 15, 24, 36, etc.) either. I like modular because it's a lot easier for me to move smaller panels and parts around in the shop, easier to construct, and easier to finish and move the completed product around in the shop.
   On the other hand longer runs of cabinets means less material, less seams and probably less installation work.

1. 
   observer | Sep 30, 2009 10:42pm | #8

   Have to agree with you about preferring modular. Much stronger installation and considerably more flexible in terms of use and changing use. Modules can be replaced individually if and when required.
   Custom modules are easily sized to precisely and visually fit existing space and eliminate requirements for filler panels. Much easier to handle during construction and installation and indistinguishable from monolithic units once either face frames or doors and drawer facings are applied.Calling monolithic cabinets the true high end is about as accurate as saying dovetail drawers are a necessity in order to be considered high end.

7. 
   MikeHennessy | Sep 30, 2009 09:28pm | #7

   Make sure it'll fit through all the doors on the way to the kitchen when it's assembled. ;-(

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

8. 
   CapnMac | Sep 30, 2009 11:10pm | #9

   There's a balance, and a difference.

   For one, upper cabs do better with more end panels, doubly so with adjustable shelves (shelf supports in the midstiles is a poor option, even when necessary).

   Some base cabinets will make longer rouns, and handilly, too.  Trick is to be able to get them in to where they will be set (that rightangle turn in the mudroom, or through the garage entry/laundry never more evident than while wrestling 30" x 84" x 24" of don't-hit-anything carcass).

   The cabinet joint I was with would go to sheet material length, 96" for a single carcass.  Not that unusual for taller cabs, Linens, Oven cabinets, and the like.  Tougher when it's 72" long 42" tall wall cabs, though.

   For seven feet, I'd be more inclined to a pair of 42" boxes, and arrange the fornt how you will.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
9. 
   smslaw | Sep 30, 2009 11:38pm | #10

   As others have said, getting it moved and installed is one consideration. In my kitchen, I had a 12 foot long wall of cabinets and since I work by myself, it was much easier to build it in three pieces. Just making a seven foot box presents some issues, even if access and help moving the finished product is available. You'll probably want at least one interior partition anyway, so two boxes just adds one piece. You can always tie it together with a single back.

   Why not design it and see if there is a logical place to divide it?  I'm building a nine foot base cabinet right now. It is in three pieces. I temporarily screwed it together to make sure the face frame fits perfectly, then took it apart. Once I get the doors made, I'll bring the pieces up from the basement, put them in the room, screw the unit back together and install the face frame, trim, doors and drawers. Much easier than trying to manhandle a huge cabinet.

10. 
    cussnu2 | Sep 30, 2009 11:49pm | #11

    No one but you has mentioned interior space and for me thats a large issue.  go look at most cabinets in LIVED in houses and pay attention to how the doors shut.  If the houses you are in are actually in kitchens that are used by real people (as opposed to show kitchens of people that mostly eat out) what you will likely see are cabinet doors that don't close all the way.  In my experience, I didn't see this at my parents house with full custom cabinets because the open cabinet allows more flexibility in getting everything in.  Its always the handles on something that cause the problems it seems.  A couple of inches don't see like much but size does matter.

1. 
   frost | Oct 01, 2009 01:20am | #12

   I'm in the building it as one crowd, but I am old school.  I can't imagine how applying a face frame to a couple of boxes on site could look as good as a shop applied frame to one large unit.  It might look good but not as good.  If you're applying a FF on site then its likely not sanded smooth to the ply, has slight reveals etc. Picky stuff, and probably why I can't make a living doing it but its what I notice. As far as strength, if you use a ladder type of base that also is screwed to the wall, then even cheap cabs (mine are not, they're 3/4" ply,1/2 " backs) will suffice.  I'll buy into the easier to tote argument but I can usually find someone to help carry the big stuff in.  But........ me thinks the short box crowd finds a way to make it look nice and probably does well.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Oct 01, 2009 03:37am | #13

   I did not make mine, but they where custom made to fit the space.It is a hybrid system.And was done 30 years ago so some of the construction would be different today.But If I was making them today I would use the same basic concept. Now my kitchen is small. And when you have the corners and appliance you don't have much in the way of long runs. the longest is a 5 ft upper with 3 sections. That was made as one cabinet with single wall dividers.But the face frame was installed in the field. It starts out at the frig upper, and double wide upper and DW was below, sink, 45 upper and lowers, 3 section up and 1 section lower and trash compactor, upper and lower corner and narrow upper, then drop in stove and vent with cabinet over, then it become counter top with a "breakfast bar" on the other side. And under the cabinet is a kneehole space and a double wide cabinet.And the face frame looks like one continous construction. .
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

1. 
   BossHog | Oct 02, 2009 12:01am | #21

   I like the idea of a one piece face frame. To me it looks odd to see a pair of 2" verticals between every cabinet. With a one piece frame it could be a different width, or at least be a single piece.
   I don't know what to do with my arms. It just makes me feel weird and I feel like people are looking at me and that makes me nervous. [Tyra Banks]

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Oct 02, 2009 01:48am | #24

   Either way. if you only have single partitions in one long cabinet don't the faceframes form lips inside, as opposed to being flush if there are individual boxes? I don't like the lips.

11. 
    Dave45 | Oct 01, 2009 05:28am | #14

    I build mine in "modules" for ease in handling and installation, but my "modules" are sized for the job at hand.

    This upper was for my first kitchen (my own), and was done as a single cabinet. Really bad choice!! It was a bear to keep square while building, and it took three people to hang the sucker. Quoth the raven........Nevermore!! - lol

    
12. 
    Piffin | Oct 01, 2009 01:54pm | #15

    When I build long run cabinets, I am building them in place in the home on site

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

13. 
    AitchKay | Oct 01, 2009 03:14pm | #16

    Individual boxes are SOOO much easier to build. Butt joints and screws are PLENTY strong enough.

    Commercially-made cabinets use rabbets and dadoes as assembly and alignment aids for semi-skilled workers.

    3/4" shelves shouldn't span much more than 30", so you'll want dividers anyway.

    Save your skills for the drawer boxes and face frames.

    And if you want the single-box look, which I like, too, make a single face frame to apply after cabinet installation.

    AitchKay

14. 
    wane | Oct 01, 2009 03:22pm | #17

    just be sure to offset the hinge positions on each side of a partiton, most 32 mm hinges are counterbored, and they compete for room in the partitions ..

1. 
   PeterJ | Oct 01, 2009 05:41pm | #18

   just be sure to offset the hinge positions on each side of a partiton, most 32 mm hinges are counterbored, and they compete for room in the partitions ..

    

   I think you're talking euro boxes, right? Face frames usually get frame mount hinges unless doors are inset.

     

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Oct 01, 2009 06:03pm | #20

   Another regional anomaly. You don't see faceframes on any kitchens here built since the 60's. It's all Euro-style.

2. 
   chunkmonk | Oct 01, 2009 05:54pm | #19

   Great input from from all .Will definetly take into consideration all the wisdom that was recieved. Stil, I like the space but ..I understand some dividers will be necessary . Sounds like a build, prefit ,knockdown, assemble onsite  operation . Maybe a little more work , but a labor of love . Thanks again to ALL.  " To the Bat pole"...............

15. 
    mike_maines | Oct 02, 2009 12:13am | #22

    I like to build individual boxes in most cases, but connect them all with a single face frame for a unified look. 

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Oct 02, 2009 01:45am | #23

   Don't get all modest on us. Link some pictures for him ;)

1. 
   mike_maines | Oct 02, 2009 02:59am | #25

   LOL--not modest, just lazy--

    

16. 
    mike_maines | Oct 02, 2009 03:00am | #26

    Search the Taunton home page for "built ins" or "cabinets" and you'll get all kinds of carpenterly tips and tricks, including this one I wrote:

    https://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/a-faster-easier-approach-to-custom-cabinet-construction.aspx?nterms=65754&ac=ts&ra=fp

     

17. 
    BobChapman | Oct 02, 2009 03:14am | #27

    I built them for my own kitcehn: from 8' to 12' long, one piece, uppers and lowers.  I made the parts in my shop, assembled the whole thing in the kitchen (I work by myself).  DW very understanding, as kitchen was in uproar for a year.

    The only downside that I see, is if you damage (water leak, etc.) one section, you are in trouble: hard to replace a damaged part

     

    Bob Chapman

1. 
   observer | Oct 02, 2009 06:05am | #28

   LOL!If you'd built modular, the kitchen would have only been out of kilter for a week or so.