I want to replace the window over the sink in my kitchen with a bay window arrangement. The existing are two sash windows butted together resulting in an odd size and I’d like to build my own anyway. This would avoid resizing the rough opening, cutting siding etc. Any ides where I can get plans that show the approach one should take? I searched the Fine Homebuilding index but found nothing. Thanks in advance.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.
Highlights
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Yeah! My specialty. Individual block-frame windows with a 1/4" wide/deep mull channel around the perimeter are available through Atrium Windows. This is a good start. From here you must consider what sort of head and seat board you will build. How will it be attached to the windows? How will you 'attach' the entire unit to the house? Corbels? Knee braces? A cable system ala Andersen Windows? Or a combination of all? Don't forget to consider flashing. Then comes the roof. Pre-fab roofs are available in many materials, copper is one product. Or, you can do it yourself. I use a sheet-metal brake to form cladding for mine. A typical 3-panel bay window roof - 5' x 2' can have about 25 seperate and interlocking hemmed pieces. What about the interior seat and head board? Stain grade or paint? Will you have a counter-top float into the unit? If so, consider the added weight on the projection. Once these facets are considered, the toughest aspect of creating and installing these units is plugging them into the opennig. It's tough to get them plumb, level, and square so that the casements, or SH/DH, operate for their lifetime. These units are typically installed proud of plumb to account for slight sagging. It's not brain surgery, but you can't cheapin' it by thinking it's a piece of cake. To make it look like it grew there will take skill. And you can do it! I've only touched the surface - I have more info, if you like.