Idiot Homeowner here, with some questions on a laminate countertop I’m building. Had I looked at some relevant discussions here before I started this phase of my kitchen project, I might have done some things differently (like, I might not have glued up 2 solid layers of 3/4″ plywood, which is of course quite impressively heavy).
I’m in the process of building the cherry edging, and it’s become clear that it’s likely to need some sanding and other adjustment after it’s attached to the countertop, which makes my original plan of finishing it prior to attaching it impractical. Which brings me to my question: I’m planning to attach it by routing matching slots in it and the countertop and inserting a spline, and I’m concerned that if I finish it afterwards, the thickness of the finish will cause the seam to not be flush. As it is, the laminate has a peel-off protective plastic coating on it which I intend to leave on there until the counter is installed in the kitchen, so that’ll affect the alignment to some degree too. I’m thinking that a layer or two of painter’s tape on the top of the edging while routing the slot should result in a flush seam once the finish is applied (the finish will be water-base over BLO, which I’ve used to great effect on the cabinets I built). Or maybe instead I should tweak the router bit up a tiny bit before routing the slot in the edging. Or maybe I’m being needlessly paranoid and the thickness of 3 or so coats of water-base won’t be noticeable.
(I really don’t want to extend the laminate over the top of the edging, though I know that’s what’s usually recommended.)
Replies
Three layers of finish is probably not enough to be an issue. I would pull back the film when routing the laminate square and making the spline slot. You don't want the router hanging up on that film.
With two layers of 3/4 ply, you will have difficulty in getting a sink in that top, if that's in the plans. I usually use 2 in. rips for the edge buildup so the sink fasteners catch on the substrate and not the built-up front edge.
It will be solid.
Edited 9/12/2007 12:10 am ET by peakbagger
*********Or maybe I'm being needlessly paranoid and the thickness of 3 or so coats of water-base won't be noticeable********
That pretty much hits the nail on the head.
Dave
As other have said the clear coat finish on the edge wont be noticeable.
I build p-lam tops all the time using Wilson Art's Perm-a-edge system with laminated bevel edges and solid wood edging. Finishing the wood edging does not create a ridge of finish at the joint if done correctly. Only use blue tape if you are satining the edge, and that is to keep the stain off the p-lam. Apply your clear finish with a foam brush and wipe off any that spreads over on the p-lam. For the spots you may miss, most of the time it will scrape off the p-lam with a fnger nail or razor blade. Most p-lams don't provide a good surface for finishes to adhere too.
Route your edging first, then adjust your hand held router depth for the coutertop edge grove to fit the molding. I use the back edge of the top to make my test cuts durring the adjustment stage of the set up. When the fit is perfect, I move to the front and route everything in one pass.
Keep your spline in the upper 3/4" piece of substrate. Only glue the spline and upper edge of the molding. Have plenty of clamps and cauls handy to pull everything up thight.
To get the best possible joint at the p-lam/wood you need to joint the top after the p-lam is installed. You can do this with a good hand held power planer, or a straight bit in the router and a straight edge clamped to the top.
Post some pics when you are done.
Dave