Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Sep 16, 2004 03:30pm | #1

   Guess I'm going to show my ignorance here.  Why does the 6" drop cause a problem?  I agree that trying to pour a thin concrete filler would not be right, but why can't you set the pressure treated sill on the existing concrete and build up from there?

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   MojoMan | Sep 16, 2004 04:09pm | #2

   Here in MA, the code requires foundations to be 48" deep to get below the frost line. It might be less in CT, but not much. If you pour concrete, or lay block on your existing slab, it is very likely that it will crack over time.

   The proper way to do it wound be (as you've been told) to jackhammer out the slab under the door, dig down (I'd guess at least 3 feet.), pour a concrete footing and pour or build a foundation on top of that. The concrete or blocks should come up about a foot above your finished grade. 

   There is another concern here. A driveway that terminates into a wood wall sitting right on the ground looks very tackey and DIY.

   For the floor, you could build a level frame from PT sleepers that are progressively deeper to level the floor. Put foam insulation between them before laying the subfloor.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

3. 
   AXE | Sep 16, 2004 05:10pm | #3

   I did this once when I did time in MA.  I had an asphalt driveway that extended into a concrete pad in a garage.  So building on the asphalt/concrete joint was not an option, even a stupid 20-something kid knew that.

   I'd go with what your concrete guy told you.  You could even do all that work yourself, it's just going to delay you a little bit.  You honestly could probably get away with not doing it because the soil close to the house isn't likely to freeze to the point of heaving your wall since, as you point out, it's been sitting there for X years and it looks fine.  The only thing that would worry me would be the additional weight of the wall on the end of the slab resulting in a cracked slab and then movement.  But if cars have driven over the thing for 50 years, it's probably not going to crack if you add some block and wall.

   And please take Al's advice - do not build a wood wall at ground level.  Not only does it look hacky (which the "trade" disdainfully refers to as "DIY"), it just won't last.  Think 3' of snow piled up against it for a 10 weeks.

   Don't be deterred from the project, but do it so it looks exquisite.

   Another thing you might consider - pour a small ICF wall.  You could call around and find the few blocks you need and purchase them directly.  Tie up some rebar in the wall and pour and ICF wall upto the bottom of the window openings.  Then frame from there.  That would give you a high performance wall under that window (where as cinder block will be total crap) and you dont' have to worry about a footing since ICF walls can easily span and you don't have squat for load on it.

   MERC

4. 
   CapnMac | Sep 16, 2004 06:09pm | #4

   Where the present garage door meets the floor, it is recessed arond 6" lower than the rest of the garage floor ... I was planning on pouring concrete on to of the existing concrete to make the entire floor level

   Ok, I'm guessing that you mean there's a slope in the garage floor that drops 6" and not that there's a 6" square lip across the garage door opening.  I'm guessing, too, that this is an attached garage.

   First off, what are we matching the new wall to?  Is there a kneewall of some sort (brick veneer, block with wood framing over, etc.) around the existing garage?  What sort of foundation does the garage have where there is no door?

   Ok, now some "design" stuff.  Were you planning on keeping the existing garage steps as the entry into this new bedroom?  What sort of existing headroom do you have?  Is this a split-level or basement-level garage?  Are you adding a bath or half--bath for this bedroom?

   Why all the questions?  Well, because that helps define the answers.  A bedroom is going to require different things than a "bonus" room.  Spanning a wood floor across the existing concrete may be much preferable to having a bedroom floor in contact with a cold garage slab-on-grade (it's also a lot easier to install than a tapered slab of concrete).  If you are adding plumbing, that can affect the "best" answer, too.  Don't forget that your jurisdiction will likely require AFCI breaker(s) on the new bedroom circuit.

   So, tell us more.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   phemt | Sep 18, 2004 07:17pm | #5

   Thanks for all of the suggestions. Lokks like I'm going to have to jackhammer up the enterance to the garage, dig and then pour a foundation. After that I will use block (that will tie into the existing block walls) and go up 36". From there, I will frame it out. You guys more or less confirmed what I was told by the foundation contractor. I really appreciate your answers. I'll post a picture of the finished wall.PHEMT

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Sep 19, 2004 12:39am | #6

   Down here the garager floor is poured monolithic with the house foundation, so it is already well supported.  That's why I didn't see a problem with building on what you have.  Guess I don't understand your situation.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt