Building back to plane of plaster
Existing house built 1928 – had cement based plaster approx. 1″ thick. Owner has removed plaster entirely (unfortunately).
Existing window frames remain – there will be new Marvin tilt-pak replacements.
Drywall will be 5/8″.
Three options:
(1) plane window frames down +/- 3/8″
(2) furr or cross-strap studs 3/8″ on exterior walls
(3) frame out outer edge of window casing with 3/8″ lattice or similar over drywall.
My preference is for #2 – thoughts? Experiences? The actual stud bay depth wil be 4″ (1 5/8″ x 3 5/8″ stud + 3/8″ furring) – at 4″ is it reasonable to try and fit 5 1/2″ batts? You lose a little R value but not that much – although the bulk of the batt could make rocking more difficult.
With #1 moving the plane of finish back 3/8″ could cause some flooring/shoe mold coverage issues.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Jeff
Edited 4/24/2009 1:51 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Replies
7/16" osb + 1/2" drywall.
Nice solid job and you can hang a shelf or art anywhere without a stud sensor.
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i like # 2 , only dens-pak instead of fgMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
The (institutional) Owner has a prejudice against loose insulation so it will have to be batts I'm afraid.
Any thoughts on 5 1/2" R-19 compressed to 4" space (considering 3/8" vertical furring)?
I do like the idea of OSB beneath but I hate 1/2" DW and it removes some of the potential insulation space.
Jeff
Edited 4/24/2009 8:38 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
the fg choice would seem to be 3 5/8 ( r-13 ) or 5 1/2 ( r-19)
i'd rather used a compressed batt ( the 5 1/2 in a 4 " space ) and sacrifice a little r-valuei'd use unfaced batts if i could get themMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
R-19 in a 4" wall gives you R-14
Edited 4/24/2009 12:22 pm ET by Mike_Maines
Still better than R-11. And you'd be lucky to get R-3 out of the foam.
Jeff
R-11?! Do they still make that?Why not use R13 or R15? Then you don't have to fight with compressing it to get the surface material on.
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Rip a bunch of 3/8 strips and tack them to t the faces of the existing studs. Or two layers of 1/2" sheetrock would add a lot of noise dampening.
Ditto on the Cellulose. Lose the FG.
Steve
Option 2 means that you will need to drive nails/screws into the strapping where it crosses the studs, otherwise they will be driven through the DW.
Why not add a layer of 3/8" DW to the entire wall. Cheap, easy and fast. It might mean using 1/2" top layer instead of 5/8" and doing a little shimming.
Like Piffin said, I've done it in my own home and it's so much nicer to work with. My 100yr old balloon framed rough cut timbers and lath never line up on an even plane, a flat wall was left up to the plasterers. Shimming and easing drywall and not popping heads was a headache at best. Layer of osb worked magic. If not that I'd use #2, least extra material/labor involved and for a few cents more get a little more detailed profile and they'll think it's a special feature highlighting the window.
A buddy of mine had the same situation, and went over the studs with 3/8" foam board, then 1/2" sheetrock. Thermal break, insulative value, and it's thin enough that 1 5/8" screws hold the rock in place just fine.
That's an interesting idea. Any problems?Jeff
I think he had a few screw pops. After one heating season he said he wished he had just sacrificed the trim and added more insulation.
I used 2inch Dow blueboard on the walls and a cathedral ceiling covering with 1/2 DW and have no screw pops in the approx. 5 years since then, for what it's worth.
the other half is the proper application of knowledge.
Edited 4/24/2009 12:40 pm ET by rez
Rez, did you go directly over the foam with long screws?
Ya, old 1908 1&1/2 storey basic farmhouse shell with no jazz and all beatup to the heavens, 2x4 rafters with no ridge, had been thru 2 fires and 2 floods, tweaked like a corkscrew yada yada.
Removed the collar ties and sistered 2x6s to the rafters.
Nailed inch and a half furring for a cold roof vent space and started layering foamboard in there.
Hadn't heard about using can foam so laid a bead of caulk on the furring and cut the foamboard so I had to hammer it in there with 2x for a tight fit.
I'd bought a huge stack of overage foamboard from a large logcabin project that had 2", 2 1/2" and 3" thicknesses in it and added various thicknesses I'd bought at a bigbox to match whatever was needed to abut flush to the 2x4's and 2x6's.
Seems I used 1'' foil on the rafters under the drywall as a vapor barrier and concerns of not cutting into the headroom.
The two inch directly under the DW was on the walls and used the plastic cap washers and long drywall screws to secure the foamboard then drywalled without sparing the screws.
the other half is the proper application of knowledge.