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Building barn doors

| Posted in General Discussion on August 26, 2007 03:27am

I am going to be doing a barn renovation for a weatlhy client who wants the best.

Most of the barn doors are on sliders, some of them are quite large. (2)6’X12′ or so. The owner wants them all replaced, the exisiting doors are T&G 3/4 something? Can’t tell because they are painted. I am not sure how old they are, if they are old as the barn itself but they are perfectly straight doors.

The question is what would you make large barn doors out of?

Someone suggest T&G White Oak with the Aztec vinyl trim for Ext trim

 

Any suggestions?  

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Replies

  1. junkhound | Aug 26, 2007 04:51am | #1

    weatlhy client who wants the best

     

    Forget the vinyl (yuck) part, but white oak sounds good, Teak or black walnut or spalted maple even better (you get a markup?)

    Some stained glass would also help. 

    On own house (except for the sheds, and that is a 'hole 'nuther story),  doors are oak, teak, and walnut, carved with family themes. 

    How wealthy is the client?  - if not DIY, carving can get very pricey.  

  2. huntley | Aug 26, 2007 05:48am | #2

    Hi,

    Just finished some barn doors to match existing ones from 1936.

    36" x 72" side entry door and 80" x 101" hanging door at hay loft.

    The originals were site built from pine, so were the new ones. Although white oak/cypress/VG doug fir are maybe better alternatives I was asked to match the pine of the originals.

    Now you may say pine is no good, but with a T&G batten door I paint ALL sides, edges, ends and grooves of every board before assembly with Benjamin Moore oil base primer, and at least 2 coats of a quality low luster latex after assembly. No glue is used as the door wants to move with the humidity swings. I put 1/16"spacers between each board during assembly for expansion

    I used screws and plugged the holes but cut nails from Tremont Nail are great for this type of door, you can get 2-1/2"-3" galvanized cut nails and clinch on the inside.

    The T&G boards are 3/4" thick and the battens are 5/4 for a 1-15/16" door which is identical to the originals.

    Good luck,

    Huntley

    1. Pierre1 | Aug 26, 2007 06:22am | #3

      Nice joinery on the big door's corner braces. 

      1. huntley | Aug 27, 2007 01:48am | #6

        Pierre1,

        Thanks, they are 3/4" exterior ply to avoid splitting along the grain and they helpd square the door during assembly.

        Huntley

    2. User avater
      McDesign | Sep 01, 2007 01:06am | #10

      Dude, that's purty work!

      Forrest

  3. LIVEONSAWDUST | Aug 26, 2007 09:36am | #4

    I have a method that works great for me for building these large doors for what have often become slightly (or not) irregular opening 1)lay out a perimeter frame on the floor(usually 1x cedar) This becomes the "inner frame" of the door. 2) Lay out and screw or nail material on top of this frame for the door "panel" (this can be tongue & groove material or even T-111 plywood) 3) Apply material that will become "outer perimeter frame" BUT ONLY ON THE FACE OF THE HINGE SIDE (again this is usually 1x cedar) 4) apply hinges and hang the door 5) Apply material for the  remainder of the outer perimeter frame and any other trim details such as crossbucks etc. This method allows you to adjust the placement of the trim on the door to create even gaps around the perimeter even if the opening is irregular. The "sandwich" of trim on both sides helps keep stresses equal on both sides preventing warping .I have one double set of these doors each being 6' x 11' that are 16 years old and have not warped.This particular pair was built with T-111 and although the trim is applied over the T-111 the grooves in the T-111 create drainage behind the trim and have had no decay so far.

    1. Jer | Aug 26, 2007 03:00pm | #5

      I have built barn doors exactly that way and will testify that the sandwich style is a stronger door. I still add the cross bracing even if it is T-111, do it for detail.

      1. wivell | Aug 31, 2007 05:05pm | #8

        Have any pictures?

        1. Jer | Sep 01, 2007 01:02am | #9

          None. A big mistake that I have made through the many years was not taking pictures. I have some shots of my work but no barn doors

  4. huntley | Aug 30, 2007 05:11am | #7

    Willy50,

    I'll be interested in how you build the door, I'm always looking for better ways and I'll certainly be interested in seeing pics of the door you make.

  5. User avater
    user-246028 | Sep 01, 2007 02:13am | #11

    Sometimes simple is the way to go. Rough Sawn Yellow Pine looks pretty slick when painted. Board and Batten style. It's quite popular around here (Niagara). It's cost efective. You can also get a similar product prefinished in cedar if your client really has a need to spend a stupid amount of money.

    Dave

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