I guess this must be as basic a question as can be; I only found one article in my google search.
How do you build dropped soffits for an existing kitchen? Mine will run 3 sides in an 11×9 room, support pot lights on all 3 and the ducting for the hood vent on 1 side. I expect to finish with drywall.
Build the ladders/frame on the floor or in place?
All 2×2 or should I include 2×4 where the pots are supported?
Rely only on the frame or pre-sheath in flake board?
Any tips to avoid blunders?
Thanks
Replies
steel studs seem to be the latest preferred method. Easy to handle and build on the ground, then easier than 2-by mat'l to hold in place whilst affixing to existing structure.
Adventures in Home Building
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If things are uniform--walls plumb and square, you could probably build on floor and lift into place. Last one we put in a kitchen was made out of 2x4's and built in place. But I think 2x2's may be enough, except for where the pots will be (2x2's are harder to nail without splitting though). I think sheathing would be overkill.
Over the years I have built soffits/bulkheads about every way there is. Starting with 2x2 or 4 ladders in residential and graduating to steel studs and tracks in commercial.
Having a couple of times taken apart a 70's soffit sheeted with plywood I thought I'd give that a try with some modification. It was sturdy and could hold weight fastened to the bottom.
A simple 2x2 nailer fastened to the bottoms of the joists or blocks between. Hang a ripped pc of 3/8's underlay ply (because it was flat and true-no osb/sheeting grade) from the nailer. Fasten lookouts from the wall to the ply. Cover all with sheetrock. *remember fireblocking just below the soffit at the wall connection.
The most important thing with dropped soffits are that they are straight, level and plumb. The use of a laser and string lines make this possible. I hang the ply with the bottom to a laser line. A bit of "off" with a level can compound itself unless you're real careful and damn lucky. Once the thing is framed and sheeted and depending on the cabs that go up, I'll set the corner bead to a laser line. With good finishing of the drywall, no need for trim at the top of the cabs. Follows in the "perfect will be close enough" for this job vein.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Since I am installing over existing drywall is additional fire block needed?
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Since I am installing over existing drywall is additional fire block needed? "
Nope, provided you don't bash holes along the covered area to run wires. If you seal up those holes (if made), then again-no problem. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I build them as you describe, nice thing is you can adjust the bottom to be level even if the ceiling isn't with little effort. I attach a 2x2 to the bottom of the ply instead of just nailing the lookouts back to the wall.
Building a ladder seems like a waste of effort and to much time.
You got it on the time waste of ladders.
Commercial we would use metal studs in ladder form. Prebuild the front with only one track, level the bottom track as we went along and then run clips (studs w/flange taken off at one end) back to the track fastened to the wall. Of course you might have several hundred ft going and often times it was fasten the top track, stud as you go..........because of all the "stuff" in the way down the line. Get on the lift, come down at break. Now that I think of it, a good time.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
We have used a simple method over the years. Nail a 2x4 on the wall and one on the ceiling. Cut some 1/2" plywood to the size needed and assemble it in an L shape, with another 2x4 in the corner. Now lift the L shape up. Make sure there is a little slack room with the plywood, 1/4", so you can check the bottom with a framing square from the wall. The 2x4 on the wall is already level. Cover with drywall and tape. There isn't any need for additional framing, ladders, etc. the inside of the box is open for running electrical or vents.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Another vote for hammer 1's method - very simple, fast and strong.Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
I'd build it out of metal studs and track but don't use the crap they sell at Home Depot. Find a place that sells the heaver gauge metal.