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Building in WET conditions …

newbuilder | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 16, 2006 03:13am

Here in the NW we’re getting a string of storm after storm after pounding storm off the Pacific.  trees down, ferry service suspended, even school closures.  Winds gusting to over 70 MPH and more on the way.

I’m building a high structure at the top of one of Seattle’s seven hills.  The wind-pounding is absolutely incredible and I still haven’t ‘buttoned up’ so I’m still in the ‘tarps’ stage of attempting to protect it.  I’m up and outside and climbing the stairs two or three times a night to check on things.  Living in a surreal dream.

My question is, is it OK to go ahead and put up the felt and the siding OVER very wet plywood sheathing?   Or should I wait who knows how long for some degree of ‘drying out’ before working with the siding.  On areas of the structure I’ll be using 24/26 gauge steel … not much ‘breathing’ through it.  I’m thinking that any moisture can evaporate inward through the inside framing, but I wanted to ‘run it by the pros’.  Right now I’m focused on getting 11 vinyl windows in. 

Any thoughts one way or the other on this?

thanks –

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  1. Schelling | Nov 16, 2006 03:58am | #1

    If you can get a roof on, the walls should dry out in a fairly short period of time. It does not need to be perfectly dry. If you are waiting for the roof sheathing to dry out before putting on the roof, don't wait any more. Put the roof on.

    1. User avater
      Harborman | Nov 16, 2006 04:02am | #2

      Good advice,  Regards,  Dale Buchanan

    2. newbuilder | Nov 16, 2006 05:35am | #3

      If you can get a roof on, the walls should dry out in a fairly short period of time. It does not need to be perfectly dry. If you are waiting for the roof sheathing to dry out before putting on the roof, don't wait any more. Put the roof on.

      ================

      The situation is that I still have one more floor up to go.  So ... what is 'the roof' now ... will end up being the floor of the top floor next Spring when I put one more floor on.  So .. currently .. it's flat and I've got it super-tarped (extra heavy tarp held down hard).  As soon as there's a break in the weather ... if ever! .. I'm going to use a method of covering the roof with tar-paper that's worked well for me in the past ... totally keeps the wet out even on a flat roof.  But what I'm wondering about now is whether or not to go ahead and cover the WALLS ... the outside walls .. should I go ahead and felt and side them even though they're soaking wet or should I wait for a few days of break from rain for them to dry mostly before siding.  THAT'S my question .. not the roof at this point.

      Thanks!

       

      nb

      1. User avater
        Matt | Nov 18, 2006 02:50pm | #4

        Never heard of installing windows and exterior cladding on a house before the roof was done - or at least tar-papered.

        Regarding covering wet walls you can do it, but I wouldn't do it over soaking wet sheathing.

        Also - with your building schedule what it is, you might want to look into an alternate housewrap idea other than felt.  Felt starts to deteriorate after several months.  You might want to check into Typar.  Don't know though, Typar may not be compatible with this metal siding you are talking about...

      2. Frankie | Nov 18, 2006 05:45pm | #5

        If you're confident that you can keep the "flat-roofed" house watertight using tarps and felt during the winter - good for you. I don't think I am good enough to succeed at that. A minimum pitch would be required for me.As for the ext. side walls - Cover them with Tyvek or Typar. The walls will dry out since these materials allow water to permiate in one direction - out (when applied properly). They have a UV rating for 3 or 6 months of exposure. Check with the manufacturers. This way, with continued rains your wall sheathing will not continue to get wet and will slowly dry out.I do not think felt/ tar paper will allow the any moisture to migrate out, so in order for the wall sheathing to dry, moisture will have to migrate in. this will take a long time and will be mst effective when you have the place looking nice, heated and insulated. This would be the wrong time to introduce moisture.Frankie

        Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.

        Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.

        Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.

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        1. davidmeiland | Nov 18, 2006 06:33pm | #6

          Moisture can also migrate out thru the felt. It is not much of a vapor battier, which is why it's a good material to use.

  2. Notchman | Nov 18, 2006 06:57pm | #7

    I've been building in the coastal PNW for a number of years and have built only one home that didn't get saturated before the roof was on.

    We've always wrapped the walls (Typar is the wrap of choice for exposed longevity), often drilled drain holes in the subfloors and roofed over wet sheathing.

    When conditions warrant, I do like tarpaper for the walls when I can put it up a course at a time ahead of the siding....in my case usually F/C or WRC clap.

    It'll all dry out.  I'm not a hack and the homes have all been higher-end customs and never a call back.

    Use one of the roofing underlayments like Tri-Flex or RoofGard with plasticap nails....in the wind, tarpaper will just come apart unless you just nail the devil out of it.

    The synthetic underlays go on much faster, smoother and are very tough.

    1. newbuilder | Nov 20, 2006 05:14am | #8

      Thanks to everyone for the responses.

      I'm in a bit of a pickle here ... the early succession of storms took me by surprise.  Seattle now just set the record for the wettest November in recorded history ... very possibly it will end up the wettest MONTH in recorded history before the month is out.

      I've got a big, wet, wood structure that's taking a daily/nightly beating.  Makes me nervous as hell as I'm NOT a 'seasoned builder' and am not sure what it might mean in the long run.  I've GOT to get my siding up and windows in ... but working alone in the rain is tough. 

      Anywho ... I greatly appreciate the feedback .. thanks again!

       

      nb

       

      1. IdahoDon | Nov 20, 2006 05:38am | #9

        I've got a big, wet, wood structure that's taking a daily/nightly beating.  Makes me nervous as hell as I'm NOT a 'seasoned builder' and am not sure what it might mean in the long run. 

        Don't sweat it.  Unless you have osb on the floor most building materials stand up to quite a bit of moisture with no long-term problems.  

        Osb can get pretty soft if left wet for a few months.  I've seen 1-1/8" subfloor that should have been replaced or another layer added after enduring a summer full of rain showers.

        Engineered floor joists shouldn't be allowed to stay wet for any extended time.

        Keep tarping up as best you can. 

        Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

        1. newbuilder | Nov 20, 2006 01:10pm | #10

          Don't sweat it ....... Keep tarping up as best you can...

          hey ... thanks for the note of reassurance.

          No osb to be found on my creation ... but I've got three floors of tji's with osb-like 'webbing' between the spines.  So far it hasn't endured too much water ... only very minimally on one end of a few.  I'm working with heavy tarps and 30# felt and getting pretty good at keeping things dry inside.  Wish to God I'd buttoned things up before the rains came in.  I'd rather be a builder than a constant anti-water-strategist!

          thanks again -

          nb

           

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