Replies

1. 
   Bing187 | Jan 07, 2009 05:11pm | #1

   The window install is wrong. Doesn't matter whether it's a ranch house or Shaq's waterfront mansion. Only *however* I'd put in is that the possibility exists, if they haven't reached the windows yet with the siding, that they do it when they have a staging up to window level. Easier to put up at that point, IMO.

   The trim is a more difficult one to answer, but it comes down to this. I wouldn't put bare pine on anything these days. Having said that, if you've agreed on a price as specced w/ the trim that's there, or in writing, then you would need to decide if you're willing to pay an upcharge on the trim for a better product. I would argue the 5 year point, as if it's primed well, and a good quality paint is used, it should last a lot longer than that, but back priming is a big benefit in terms of longevity and stability, so....... Flashing details probably play an equally important role iin the whole thing, as well.

   I'd be careful as to how you approach this with your builder, as everyone here knows, veryone has a critical relative when your building a house, and while your brother makes perfect sense, don't be surprised if the contractor goes on the defensive initially.

   Hope this helps

   Bing

1. 
   RAINATL | Jan 07, 2009 06:10pm | #2

   Thanks for your input. The siding is already up around the windows on 3 sides of this 2 story home with a (to be) finished basement. The bare pine exterior trim, and windows were only recently installed after we were under contract. We have sent the builder a list of these concerns (along w/a couple of articles on the topics from Finehomebuilding) and will meet with him soon. Being such dummies about all this, we will probably get a home inspection done soon, as there wasnt time allowed for this when going into contract.

1. 
   smslaw | Jan 07, 2009 06:46pm | #3

   Pay a knowledgable contractor for a few hours of his/her time to walk around the site with you and take a look at what has been done so far and than recommend any changes necessary.  He/she should also look at the specifications for interior finishes, fixtures, etc. You may be stuck paying more $$ for better quality (depending on what is in the contract you signed), but it's a lot easier and less expensive to deal with cheap #### (if that is what is being installed) before it's installed than after. The person who looks at it may be able to reassure you that everything is OK.

   As to the windows, he/she should be able to tell you if the installation meets accepted practice and/or code.

   For 600K, if I didn't know anythinh about construction, I'd hire someone to interact with the GC. There are plenty of out-of-work contractors who could help you out. It could be the best 5K you ever spend.

   For future reference, there is always time to have an inspection done before you sign.  This obviously wasn't an emergency house purchase. If a seller won't give you time for an inspection, just buy another house.

   Good luck.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 07, 2009 07:26pm | #4

   Do you have a link to the thread on "your house"..
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

1. 
   Gunner | Jan 07, 2009 08:39pm | #5

   I'm on my phone now and can't search. The title of it was. Gunners new crib (maybe)

    

    

      I'm bringing sexy back.

    

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yIqwyR1ays

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 07, 2009 09:41pm | #7

   Found it.The UNadvanced search engine does not look at thread titles.But you use the word crib in message in the middle of the thread. So I found it..
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

3. 
   Gunner | Jan 08, 2009 01:11am | #9

   I did one whole thread on tyvek too that dealt with flashing
   And such.

    

    

      I'm bringing sexy back.

    

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yIqwyR1ays

4. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 08, 2009 01:25am | #10

   I did not remember that it was 2 different threads,Here is the Tyvek one.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=93644.1
   .
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

5. 
   danno7x | Jan 08, 2009 05:48am | #13

   I cant go through the 600 posts from the tyvek one but did we ever come to a conclusion?  Ive been using this method from grace http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid824577978

   It makes sense to me and as far as I know is acceptable.  I've decided that I dont like folding the paper into the opening then I found this video and thought I was on the right track. 

   Is there a consensus around here.  I posted a question like this once before but I think it got lost (HeLL  I couldnt even find it)

    

   --Dan

6. 
   Gunner | Jan 08, 2009 06:32am | #15

       Man there's never a consensus around here.

    

    

      I'm bringing sexy back.

    

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yIqwyR1ays

7. 
   mmoogie | Jan 08, 2009 06:57am | #16

   It really is not that hard. I've taken to cutting away the tyvek because I would rather have the vicor stick to the wood than sticking to the tyvek which is stuck to nothing. Also makes faming the window a little easier.But really, its simple. Water flows downhill. Assume the window will leak, and line the hole accordingly with self-adhesive flashing tape, appropriately shingle-lapped, and slope the sub sill outward. House wrap goes over the top of the top flange or drip cap.Be the rain drop.namaste

8. 
   danno7x | Jan 08, 2009 01:30pm | #17

   Yep Thats why I quit folding the housewrap into the opening and cut the sides back a few inches so you can stick it right on the sheething and also onto the housewrap. 

   Its just that the details vary so much from one guy to the next that I was wondering If anyone had ever had to take one out that wasnt done too long ago and what observations about water intrusion they made

9. 
   RAINATL | Jan 08, 2009 05:21pm | #20

   it looks like a good product

2. 
   RAINATL | Jan 07, 2009 10:28pm | #8

   Yes, good points. I think we will have consult w/ home inspector at this stage.

3. 
   RAINATL | Jan 08, 2009 05:36am | #12

   Thank you for your wise inputs.
   We will be making use of a good inspector and also find another contractor to assist us in providing added perspective and feedback.

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 07, 2009 09:39pm | #6

   You might want to look at this thread.

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=91104.1&maxT=17

   I quickly scanned throuh it looking for pictures.

   Looks like the good (bad) part starts around here.

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=91104.281

   .
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
1. 
   Gunner | Jan 08, 2009 05:18am | #11

       I'm glad you brought this up Bill I've been going through that thread reminiscing. Fun stuff.

    

    

      I'm bringing sexy back.

    

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yIqwyR1ays

3. 
   cargin | Jan 08, 2009 05:59am | #14

   Rainatl

   Your window sills should look like this before the window gets installed.

   This is in a redo where the windows leaked.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=112965.29

   View Image

   View Image

   And like this when they are wrapped. Bottom flange over the flex wrap. House wrap over the top flange.

   Rich

1. 
   RAINATL | Jan 08, 2009 04:50pm | #18

   Thanks so much!--very helpful.

1. 
   cargin | Jan 08, 2009 05:18pm | #19

   Rainatl

   I don't want to stir up a hornet's nest, but I would be very wary of this house.

   Pine with no back priming is going to last about 5 years. Pine with back priming just slightly longer. Even with back priming every time you make a cut, the open the end grain it should be primed. Hard to do when you are trying to bring the house in under budget and you don't care enough to wrap the windows.

   My thread on the leaking Marvins shows what kind of damage can be done by improper flashing. These Marvins started leaking early in the life of the house, and the 1st repair was done in year 8 and we did extensive work in year 13.

   If there is a deck then pay attention to the deck flashing details. Check out this thread.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=113816.1

   It doesn't sound like this builder knows the current best practices. Sorry.

   Visit Tyveks site for proper window flashing, start on page 4.

   http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/assets/downloads/05IntFlangeWindowBEFORE.pdf

   Rich

   Edited 1/8/2009 9:19 am ET by cargin

1. 
   RAINATL | Jan 08, 2009 09:32pm | #21

   Rich--Thanks so much for all your info. Now I am stressed, I think the site manager needs to get off the job. No telling what else has been half baked.

1. 
   cargin | Jan 08, 2009 09:40pm | #22

   Rainatl

   Sorry.

   But better to know now. It gets real ugly later.

   Rich