Replies

1. 
   BobKovacs | Dec 04, 2003 01:02am | #1

   Ben-

   Here's some brief answers to your questions:

   1.  What gauge stud should I be using?  The walls are in no way load bearing.  Just partitions.

   For 10' tall non-bearing walls, 25 guage studs are fine (available at Home Depot).  I like to stiffen them a bit at that height with a channel through the middle, but for most applications, they're fine.

   2.  How should I fasten the plates (runners?) to the floor and ceiling?  I'm on the top floor, so is finding joists essential?

   If you're fastening to wood floors or joists, you can use drywall screws, or use the self-tappers that you use to fasten the studs to the tracks.  For concrete, use powder-actuated fasteners.

   3.  What type of screws should I be using for (a) attaching stud to plate; and (b) attaching sheetrock to stud?

   For stud to track, use the 7/16" self-tappers made for that application.  For drywall to studs, use fine-thread drywall screws.

   4.  A few of the walls need to be upwards of 10' tall.  Do metal studs come this long?  If not, am I screwed?

   As said above, they're available (even upwards of 24' if you needed them)- so you're not screwed.

   5.  How about framing doors into the walls?  I'm thinking I should resort back to good old wood 2x4s.  Does this seem appropriate?

   I've done it both ways- setting doors directly to the metal stud with trimhead screws and nailing the casings with double nails driven at opposing angles, and by widening the metal stud R.O. to allow a 2x4 to be screwed in to accept the jamb and trim.  You can also rip a 3" piece of 1/2 plywood to screw along the bottom of the wall (raising the drywall) for fastening base. 

   I find the door jambs get a little finicky with the screws (they tend to bow the jamb if you overset the screw), but the trim goes up fine with the double nails.  If you've got the time and the wood, go that route.

   Bob

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Dec 04, 2003 01:18am | #2

   Oversize your metal stud  rough openings by 3" and face them with 2x4 from plate to plate. This stiffens the whole door rough in and makes the standard shims and nails process for hanging doors  easier. For a 10' wall I ussually use 22 ga. studs at the doors in addtion to the wood. Really stiffens the wall.

   Dave

2. 
   JDRHI | Dec 05, 2003 05:15pm | #3

   I agree with all input thus far. I`d just like to add my two cents on the framing for doors. I prefer to frame ROs using wood in all cases. While hollow core doors should be fine with metal stud framing, I`d never attempt hanging a solid door on anything other than wood.

   Also, worth keeping in mind....areas where outlets and switches will be mounted will benefit from some additional "stiffening" of the studs. A 12" (give or take) piece of trac mounted over the stud gives the electrician a rigdid flat surface to mount his boxes.

   Wood blocking between studs inside closets helps immensly when shelving and closet poles are to be installed.

   Don`t kill yourself cutting studs to exact lengths. Cutting them up to 1/2" short will give you play and ease your experience.

   If you don`t own a magnetic level, now would be a good time to pick one up. I`ve found that by laying out my studs along the bottom plate (using a permanent marker), screwing off the bottoms (spring clamp to assist holding stud in place) and smacking the level against stud, frees up your hands when screwing off the tops.

   One last bit af advice....cut and install all studs from the same ends. Having the knockouts line up throughout will be greatly apreciated by all those running wiring or even piping inside the walls.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"