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Butt Joint or Miter 4/4 Corner Boards?

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 3, 2004 12:48pm

Hey Guys,

I’m doing our new house with prestained 8″ cedar bevel and 1×4 corner boards. Am I looking for maintenance trouble by mitering the corner boards? See, I want the board width to be the same on both sides of the corner. I’ve already mocked up a test corner with a butt joint and ripped 1″ off one side. Just doesn’t look quite right. Any suggestions?

BTW, does anyone have past experience with the Michigan PreStain company?

Thanks,

–Solo

Remember, measure twice… then keep cuttin’
’til it fits really fine.

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Replies

  1. stonebm | Feb 03, 2004 01:01am | #1

    I recall seeing something somewhere a while back (real descriptive I know) where the longer of the two corner boards (butt jointed) was kerfed near the outside edge.  The kerf was located the thickness of the corner board in from the edge.  Not sure if you get the gist, but I recall the idea was to give a more uniform appearance to offset the difference in widths of the two boards.  I bet the miter joint would be more of a maintenance issue than a butt joint.

  2. User avater
    Sphere | Feb 03, 2004 01:28am | #2

    a miter just wont work to well..not worth the trouble. just make the wide face (with out the seam) toward where ya see it most often..like at the approach.  It's wood after all and it don't grow into outside corners all by itself...unless ya have nifty Lucas Mill.

    Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?
  3. MojoMan | Feb 03, 2004 03:57am | #3

    I often see and use 1x4 on one side of the corner and 1x5 on the other. That balances things pretty well.

    Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

    1. davidmeiland | Feb 03, 2004 04:20am | #4

      Definitely butt joint. If you're really manic you can prefab them on the bench. Gorilla glue and stainless steel trim screws. When it dries use a flush trimming router to trim the wider board flush with the narrower one. Hit it with a 150 grit random orbit sander and then knock the corner off with a sanding block. If you have a big enough chopsaw you can cut the assembled corners to length and nail 'em up. Oh, I mean screw 'em up with the same stainless screws. They'll look like they grew there.

  4. scrumseeker | Feb 03, 2004 04:26am | #5

    I like touse 5/4 x 6 boards for outside corners.  Rip board @ 3-1/4" for face side of corner and use the @ 2-1/4" rip to butt.  The 5/4 thickness will make sure the siding wont stick out past the face of the corner board.

    The butt joint should never look as bad as a mitred corner that wont stay tight.

    1. BernieSolo | Feb 03, 2004 06:24pm | #6

      All great suggestions and advice! This forum is a resource like no other.

      BTW, anybody have experience with that Michigan PreStain company? The ads are all over FHB every month!

      Thank you,--Solo

      Remember, measure twice... then keep cuttin'

      'til it fits really fine.

  5. calvin | Feb 03, 2004 11:05pm | #7

    Gone,  I understand the feeling of not liking the look of roughsawn butted corners.  Just so you know, it can be done mitred lasting 14 years in this pic w/o opening up.  I glued (titebond II before I knew about guerilla glue) and nailed together every couple feet with Maze stormguard 6's.  After assembly, rolled the mitre closed with a drift.  I've done this to painted or stained corners with good results.  After all, a butt joint is still two pcs of wood put together, opening up where stressed or fitted badly. 

    And yes, I should have restained last fall............there will always be maintainance.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

    1. BernieSolo | Feb 05, 2004 10:01am | #8

      Calvin, those look GREAT! Thanks for the pics.--Solo

      Remember, measure twice... then keep cuttin'

      'til it fits really fine.

      1. Toolsguy | Feb 05, 2004 05:13pm | #9

        I just did something similar on some face frames I put on a kitchen island. Used pocket hole screws (Kreg Jig) to fasten the outside corner frames together. Worked real nice. There wasnt much fixing to do either. Just a bit of sanding to take down the slight overhang.

        1. johnharkins | Feb 05, 2004 11:17pm | #10

          all these different approaches are always so educational

          I go as mojo man but w/ the 5/4 material   **  with your large exposure on the 8" bevel siding that 5/4  X 5 " doesn't look too big  ( more proper might be 5/4 X 5 butted to 5/4 X 6 )  when you have innumerable horizontal lap lines don't get intimidated ( aesthetic intimidation ) by a couple of vertical lines

          that said I might be lookin up Calvin for my next cornerboards!

    2. User avater
      BillHartmann | Feb 06, 2004 12:23am | #11

      I am more insterested in that shrine to the Pillsberry Doughboy that is on the wall.

      1. calvin | Feb 06, 2004 02:26am | #12

        What do you wanna know bill.  The barnwood "shrine" was made for my mother in the early 70's out of scrap from our barn destruction business.  When she passed away, it found it's way back home, stuck in a box till resurrected as a bird feeder.  The "doughboy" decoration came later, a product of a local garden art shop.  Figured the dancing dog with Parma ball would look good in there.  The birds like it.  The guy that made the dog and a bunch of other stuff quit at American Greeting in the early 80's and has cast his way to a pretty darn good business.  You'll see his work nationwide and in many garden mags.  George Carruth.  He does some very cool carving in stone too, but the tag on those is waaaaaay outta my reach.  That just about explains it.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        Quittin' Time

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