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butterfly patches/ inlay techniques

| Posted in General Discussion on October 11, 2002 11:19am

Hello All,

once again i find myself needing to create a perfect “butterfly patch”. This time it’s for a 2”x 3-6 x 7-0 wood entry door that was bored wrong. 

Anyway I’m convinced that this can be done with a router by using the patch piece to be installed as a pattern to cut out the material the patch is being installed in perfectly.

Does anyone know the specific combination of bit and collet sizes to make this happen?

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Replies

  1. Stray | Oct 12, 2002 01:00am | #1

    They sell them as a set for just this purpose.

    Not much help in specific sizes...sorry. But if you're going to have to buy them anyway, just ask for the pre-matches set, and save some head scratchin'

    1. PhilEves | Oct 12, 2002 04:19am | #2

      It's usually called an inlay set, and both Lee Valley, and Garrett Wade ,among others sell them..cheers,Phil.

      It comes with a collet, and a sleeve to fit over the collet, and requires a seperately bought 1/4", or 1/2" straight or spiral up-cut router bit.If it is to be, 'twil be done by me..

  2. User avater
    goldhiller | Oct 12, 2002 06:34am | #3

    pete,

    Indeed a set of matching bits is available to do this from Woodcraft, also. I beleive these particular sets make use of an 1/8" bit which allows you to turn a tighter radius.

    You can also buy individual bushings for your router based on OD to achieve various results depending upon what your smallest radius is in the tightest bend of an inlay.

    Here's a formula that will lend the required results.

    A = larger bushing

    B = smaller bushing

    (bushing size is always OD)

    Formula = A - B = 2x bit diameter

    The larger bushing can be no larger than the tightest radius of any given inlay form.

    Even the 1/8" bit will leave a curved corner of the butterfly.

    Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

    Edited 10/12/2002 1:12:22 PM ET by GOLDHILLER



    Edited 10/14/2002 12:31:25 AM ET by GOLDHILLER

    1. petercanavan | Oct 14, 2002 01:13am | #11

      I think what you're saying is : 1/8 bit 1/4 bushing 1/2 bushing. Is that right?

      thanks!

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Oct 14, 2002 01:25am | #12

        The 1/8" bits are fine for thin material, but they break easy.

        But the kits are handy. Instead of two different bushings they have one bushing with a removable collar.

        Woodhaven and maybe others have similar kits that come with 1/4 and 1/2" bits.

      2. User avater
        goldhiller | Oct 14, 2002 01:55am | #13

        pete,

        Yes, that equates.

        As Bill Hartman just pointed out, the 1/8" bits break pretty easily if overstressed. Just don't try to cut too deep per pass and you can get away with it even in thicker materials.

        This is one of the reasons that unless a specific design calls for the tight turns that require that 1/8" bit, I'll use a larger set of bushings and larger bit. An added benefit to this is that the cutting edge of the bit lasts longer and you can save the edge of that 1/8" bit for the times when you really need it.

        Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

      3. User avater
        goldhiller | Oct 14, 2002 02:38am | #14

        Pete,

        Let me try that again as I may have stated it in a confusing way the first time.

        A = larger bushing

        B= smaller bushing

        (bushing size is always OD)

        Formula…..bit diameter is 1/2 of A minus B.

        There's another advantage to using the larger bit if possible when cutting inlays and that is that it will leave a wider gap around the perimeter of the mortise which means less exacting control of the router is needed when free-handing the removal of the rest of the material…..less chance of fudging the edge if the router should get away from you.

        When you're cutting the inlay, it's all up to you to keep that router bushing pinned tight up against that template.

        Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

        Edited 10/14/2002 12:30:28 AM ET by GOLDHILLER

  3. User avater
    goldhiller | Oct 12, 2002 06:44am | #4

    pete,

    Forgot to say.......these bushing sets require that you make a template in which you run the bushings inside of and then use that template to cut both the mortise for the patch and the patch itself. Size your template according to your bushing set and the size needed for the inlay.

    Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.



    Edited 10/12/2002 12:31:06 AM ET by GOLDHILLER

    1. silver77 | Oct 12, 2002 08:39am | #5

      That's a cool formula that I shall pass on to my students in"Know your router" Where did you pick that up from? It'works with any set of bushings...that's handy. Just have to make a template out of mdf or lexan.

      thanks, silver

      1. User avater
        goldhiller | Oct 12, 2002 06:19pm | #7

        Many, many moons ago we started doing inlays via router and templates. The relationship between the combination of bushings and bits is really pretty simple. You need to move the bit over exactly it's entire diameter to cut both the mortise and the inlay from the same template. It's really pretty simple, ain't it? That formula is just a way of expressing the relationship.

        This technique will work with virtually any size and shape of inlay so long as the OD of the larger bushing is no greater than the tightest radius involved in the inlay shape although the ultimate tightness of fit is also greatly influenced by the trueness of the bushings, trueness of bit size, and whether or not the bushing is indeed mounted dead center to the center of the bit in the router. Since the bushing mounts in the router base, much of the accuracy is dependent on if that mounting is dead center to the bit.

        You can make your own "true" router base for this by mounting a blank base and plunging a bit through it. Then create the recessed bushing mount from that established "true" hole. Now that bushing mount should be "dead on the money" true. With any luck, you won't have to do this cause your original factory base will be truly centered to the bit.

        If everything involved is truly accurate in size and mounting, the results frequently require that you drill one or more small holes to allow air to escape as the inlay is inserted or you'll never get it to go in without damaging the inlay itself.

        Remember that all you need to do is cut the perimeter of the mortise with the bushing controlled bit and then you can switch to a larger bit without any bushing, run freehand to remove the rest of the material.

        With a series of templates, you can place one inlay inside of another and another, creating inlaid butterflies with various woods if you like or virtually anything you dream up.

        Have fun.

        Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

        Edited 10/12/2002 1:13:44 PM ET by GOLDHILLER

        1. silver77 | Oct 12, 2002 07:00pm | #8

          I assumed I had to buy the special bushing set. Thanks for simplifing this for me. I'll be showing it to my students in the next couple of weeks.

          silver 

          1. User avater
            goldhiller | Oct 12, 2002 08:47pm | #9

            silver,

            Had to go back in and edit my postings as I mis-spoke.

            Here's what it should've said............the tighest radius of the template cannot be smaller than the OD of the "larger" bushing. Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

          2. petercanavan | Oct 13, 2002 02:05pm | #10

            using the inlay set i'm able to make it work but...

            I'm trying to create a template from an existing piece, in this case, for practice, a leftover passsage set escutchion.

            The inlay set doesn't reach far enough "down" to cut a temlate when i pad the router base up so that the "inlay set" rides the outside of the scutch.

            I'm going to buy a new set of template guides and try some more as I've been working off a missmatched odd ball collection. (I might as well, yesterday I bought a new plunge router)

            The trouble I've had in the past is that the "leg" on those template guides tends to get longer as the OD gets bigger, so i end up grinding it down to work w/ 1/4 luan only to find that I still haven't hit on the right combination of sizes.

            when I master this I'll ge able to rout any piece of hardware into its' home!

  4. petercanavan | Oct 12, 2002 01:06pm | #6

    thanks everyone... i'm confident that i'm gonna get it this time.

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