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Butthangers on 5/8″ rock?

BobChapman | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 29, 2009 02:25am

Can you successfully use butthangers, or my own site-made ones, on 5/8″ Sheetrock? or is the SR too stiff to bend that little bit: I’m concerned about the screws pulling through the rock before the rock bends?

(“Butthangers” are a commercially-made product that pulls the four-foot butt ends of SR boards slightly into the wall or ceiling cavity between studs or joists to create a sort of taper, like what is on the long edges of SR boards, for those who haven’t seen them. Makes for easier taping/sanding of the butt joint.)

THanks
Bob Chapman

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Replies

  1. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Jan 29, 2009 03:29am | #1

    Yes.

    Tu stultus es
    Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
    Also a CRX fanatic!

    Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

  2. User avater
    bstcrpntr | Jan 29, 2009 05:55am | #2

    So you try to miss the ceiling joist when hanging rock with these things?

    How much longer do they take to do verses hanging it "normal"?

    October 17th, 2009

    Jeremy and Lisa

    Was there ever any doubt?

    1. AitchKay | Jan 29, 2009 06:28am | #3

      Yep, he's trying to miss it, 'cuz that's the best way -- turn every butt joint into a taper. I've been doing that since the 80s, per USG's specs, and I'll never turn back -- I like flat ceilings.AitchKayPS check out USG online -- there's plenty to learn.

    2. User avater
      lindenboy | Jan 29, 2009 06:23pm | #5

      You ever hung sheet rock on 1920's framing?  Good luck hitting wood after the first sheet.

      I've successfully used 1/2 plywood double or triple screwed along seams that don't hit studs or joists, but it was kind of my own solution...not sure how it will hold up long term, but it's doing fine so far (especially on ceilings).

      Edit:  My success was on 1/2 board, not 5/8, btw.

      "It depends on the situation..."

      Edited 1/29/2009 10:24 am ET by lindenboy

      1. ruffmike | Jan 29, 2009 10:53pm | #7

        I do a pretty good amount of sidejobs furring old ceilings with RC1 channel and clips to make them perfectly straight for crown/ cabinets/ tile etc.

         You only lose 1/2" from lowest point of the ceiling and the finish carps love it.                            Mike

            Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

      2. User avater
        Gene_Davis | Jan 30, 2009 03:47am | #11

        I thought you knew that the spacing standards for framing in the 20s was based on the black diamonds. 

        View Image

        "A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."

        Gene Davis        1920-1985

        1. Ozlander | Jan 30, 2009 06:51am | #12

          I think in my house they're based on the white diamonds.

        2. User avater
          lindenboy | Jan 30, 2009 09:18pm | #14

          What in the world are black diamonds other than steep ski runs?

           "It depends on the situation..."

  3. BoJangles | Jan 29, 2009 05:15pm | #4

    Bob,   You can do it, but you will have to make them yourself.  I find the only thing that will work is 3/4" ply and it must be wide.  I had to make them about 16" wide before I could get 5/8" sheetrock to bend without pulling the screws through the board.  Use lots of screws and tighten them a little at a time.

    Maybe somebody else has a better idea, but that works for me.  It takes a little longer to install, but certainly makes for a nice looking ceiling in areas where the light coming in the windows highlites the ceiling.

    1. AitchKay | Jan 29, 2009 11:02pm | #8

      Yeah, 3/4" stock give a bigger bite, and is a good idea.I also use plenty of glue, to make sure that it doesn't fail over time, and I give it a little help with my 2x4 board-hanging tees, 3rd-Hand poles, etc. The extra push is the ticket for me.AitchKay

      1. stevenplane | Jan 30, 2009 03:25am | #9

        Ever tried 1/2"  "No Sag" sheetrock?  It's meant for ceilings but I use it on my walls too for sound dampening/fire.  It's only a dollar more per sheet than standard.

        We use it with great success in Middle Tn.  It's fire rated in case you are wondering.

      2. BoJangles | Jan 30, 2009 03:33am | #10

        Good advice!

  4. zzzzz | Jan 29, 2009 08:01pm | #6

    Try wetting it a bit before you screw, I use a squirt bottle

  5. ponytl | Jan 30, 2009 12:19pm | #13

    you are way over think'n it...  anything is better that butt ends on 1.5" of stud... 

    i use all 5/8 rock and use any scrap of anything 3" or so wide.. min being 7/16 osb... cut a min of 50" long  52 prefered...  no glue just screws   much faster than cut to fit and far less waste

    p

     

  6. DanH | Jan 30, 2009 11:02pm | #15

    There was someone here a year or two back talking about the way he did butts. Met them on a stud, but spaced 1/8" or so, then wet the surface a bit and use something like a wide wallpaper seam roller to mash down the plaster and leave a dimple for the tape.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
    1. User avater
      NickNukeEm | Jan 31, 2009 12:10am | #16

      The Butt Taper

      View Image"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

      1. DonCanDo | Jan 31, 2009 12:44am | #17

        I have this tool.  It's well-made and looks like it would do a good job, but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.

        I don't think you can have the butt joint meet on a joist.  The screws need to be back from the edge (1/2" - 3/4" should be enough) in order to dimple the edge with the tool.  Joists are just not wide enough to keep the screws that far from the edge.

        Plywood would be my first choice for a floating butt joint because it's more stable than framing lumber.

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