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Bypass Door Problem

tashler | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 31, 2009 03:51am

When I can’t solve even the simplest situation, I am stuck.

I need to give DW friend an estimate for a small job and have one little glitch that is holding me up.

Putting bypass doors between two walls, not in a jamb. Simple enough. But what about the baseboard?

Three solutions that come to mind are:
1. Let the doors hit the base. Leaves a large space on both sides.
2. Notch the base. Seems good, but now the wall is exposed. Not much, but unfinished looking.
3. Notch the doors. Uh, I don’t think so.

Any suggestions, before this woman, who thinks I’m her buddy, starts thinking (or realizing) that I am a dumb puttz?

Glenn
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Replies

  1. MikeHennessy | Jan 31, 2009 04:20pm | #1

    Not sure I understand - no jams? What are you mounting the hinges  & stops to?

    Mike Hennessy
    Pittsburgh, PA

    1. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:40pm | #4

      Bypass doors. Track at top. No hinges. One in front, one in back. In parallel, 2 different planes.Glenn

  2. Piffin | Jan 31, 2009 04:25pm | #2

    My thinking is more along the lines of thinking she is the putz for thinking this can be done right with no jamb

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:43pm | #5

      Paul, It's my idea. She wants to make a closet in an area of the finished basement where an exterior wall and a return wall are 4'7" apart.My idea is to use bypass doors. Screw the track to the joists overhead.Not a problem installing. Just worried about the finish.Glenn

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Jan 31, 2009 04:46pm | #6

        Notch out the base board. Just before the base make a track like funnel to guide the doors into the notch so's they don't swing out of plumb and whack the un-notched part.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

         

        They kill Prophets, for Profits.

         

         

        1. Piffin | Jan 31, 2009 04:53pm | #10

          I think if he is just worried about the appearance of the wall bottom - unfinished SR where the base is notched away ( yes use a bevel cut to guide the door in) he could fine that up by using some Minwax wood filler ( the two part ) to fill voids and paint it there 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:56pm | #12

            That's pretty much it. I am now toying with the idea of notching the base down just far enough for the doors to slide in, as opposed to taking the full height of the base out.But the best tool for that is probably a Multimaster, and I don't have one yet.Hmmm....I feel the need to....Glenn

          2. Piffin | Jan 31, 2009 05:01pm | #14

            Here is another idear...Say the base is 9/16" and the door is 1-3/8"Make a sort of astragal strip 5/8" x 7/8" to fasten to the end of the door where it abuts the wall.That stops the door from jumping the track when hitting the base, and forms a shadow reveal there when the door is closed.you'd probably have to do it to all four door edges. some people can't remember which door closes to which side. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 05:14pm | #15

            That's nice. I like that.I was thinking the same way Don was thinking. Too involved. This could be perfect.Thanks Paul.Thanks guys.Maybe I'll see you next month, Don. That's the day after my birthday, so maybe I'll celibate. Oh, not that one. CELEBRATE. Yeah, that's it.Celibate bad. Celebrate good.Glenn

          4. DonCanDo | Feb 02, 2009 03:42am | #40

            But the best tool for that is probably a Multimaster, and I don't have one yet.

            For $59, consider getting this one instead:

            http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700

            Just figure the price of the tool into the job.  As long as it lasts for this one job, you're ahead of the game.

            I have bought many Harbor Freight tools with the "as long as it lasts for this one job" mindset and I have yet to throw any of them away.

          5. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 03:45am | #41

            Two things, Don.1. Do you have that tool and if so, how is it?2. What the heck are you doing on Breaktime? Watch the game!Glenn

          6. DonCanDo | Feb 02, 2009 04:00am | #42

            Not a big sports fan, but I just peeked in to Harrison intercept for a TD.  My timing was impeccable.

            I have the Fein Multimaster.  The knock-offs weren't available when I bought mine.  I have no regrets because I expect it to be a one-time purchase and it works great.  If the HF tool is 1/2 the tool at 1/5 the cost, it should be well worth it.

          7. rnsykes | Feb 02, 2009 11:58pm | #46

            My brother has the multimaster, and I just got the dremel version. I see no difference so far other than cost. Plus, I can pick up extra blades when ever I need them at the home center.

      2. Piffin | Jan 31, 2009 04:50pm | #7

        To the joists?Not a finished ceiling and you are worried about how the baseboard notch might look? 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:53pm | #9

          I said a finished basement, never said an unfinished ceiling.Glenn

          1. Piffin | Jan 31, 2009 04:55pm | #11

            the poor single mom routine makes things clearer to me now. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          2. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:56pm | #13

            LOLGlenn

  3. DonCanDo | Jan 31, 2009 04:33pm | #3

    How about a "fake" jamb.  Take some 1/2" stock (or wide baseboard) about 4" wide and router some sort of finish on both edges. An ogee would look good, but even a round-over or simple bead would work.

    Apply this fake jamb to the sides of the drywall opening and you're all set.  You could even use it on the header to complete the look if there's enough height.

    You might have a small challenge mating it to the existing baseboard.  You may have to remove the top profile of the base and not router the jamb's edge all the way to the end so the two pieces meet square.

    BTW, have you considered bi-fold doors.  They won't make the job any easier.  In fact, just the opposite, but they do make access to the closet a lot easier.

    1. tashler | Jan 31, 2009 04:51pm | #8

      Thanks, Don. I thought of those things and felt that they would require more work and more $$ to her. Already hearing the 'single mom' routine. She made more money than I did last year.The opening between the walls is 4'7" and is pretty deep no access shouldn't be a problem. It's between two walls, no header.I think I used to see bifolds put in a sheetrocked opening, which this basically is, but don't remember how they handled the base.I'm impressed with the ideas you gave, though. You have a lot more talent in this the I think you led me to believe last year.Glenn

      1. ruffmike | Jan 31, 2009 05:54pm | #17

         In tract houses in Ca., they call it a California closet. rockers wrap the openining and tapers finish tight to floor. Opening gets door trim and trim hides the sliding track.The base ends at the door trim. Inside the closet gets no trim, just base.

         In your case you don't have door legs or header. Maybe you could make a jamb out of "KD" 2 x 4's and trim it out. No drywall work at least.                            Mike

            Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

      2. DonCanDo | Jan 31, 2009 09:11pm | #20

        You have a lot more talent in this the I think you led me to believe last year.

        Thanks.  Just be careful not to mistake a moment of clever for a measure of competence :-).

        1. Shep | Jan 31, 2009 09:47pm | #21

          Its a good thing he didn't see that sandwich you ordered last Tues.

          talk about questioning your competence... LOL

          1. DonCanDo | Feb 01, 2009 12:06am | #22

            LOL. Yeah, first my menu-reading competence and then my eating competence.

            View Image

          2. tashler | Feb 01, 2009 03:30am | #24

            Geez, Don. What the heck is that thing? And for how many people? And for how much $$?Tell me you didn't finish that.Glenn

          3. DonCanDo | Feb 01, 2009 05:09am | #25

            That's the signature corned beef sandwich at Harold's Deli in Edison.  It's about 5 pounds of meat.  That's right 5 pounds! (yes, I weighed it)

            And no, I didn't finish it.  It will easily serve 10 people.  I had no idea what I was getting into when I ordered it.  Nor did I know how much it would cost.  Hey, it's a sandwich, how much could it cost?  It was expensive, but half of it is still in the freezer waiting to serve the family.

          4. tashler | Feb 01, 2009 05:46am | #27

            I can't believe you finished half. That is one HUGE sammie.Glenn

          5. DonCanDo | Feb 01, 2009 05:46pm | #29

            Yeah, I finished half.  Some at lunch, some at dinner that night with my wife, the next day's lunch, a late night snack for 2 of us and then I threw away the rest of that half.  It's really good corned beef, but I really don't want to see anymore for a little while.

          6. tashler | Feb 01, 2009 09:52pm | #30

            LOLGlenn

          7. Snort | Feb 01, 2009 11:32pm | #31

            If you're hanging 6/8 doors from an 8' ceiling, what's the problem?<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com

            I went down to the lobby

            To make a small call out.

            A pretty dancing girl was there,

            And she began to shout,

            "Go on back to see the gypsy.

            He can move you from the rear,

            Drive you from your fear,

            Bring you through the mirror.

            He did it in Las Vegas,

            And he can do it here."

          8. Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 12:34am | #32

            snort, I KNEW there was something about that bothering me!snort 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          9. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 12:48am | #33

            7'5" floor to ceiling. Having doors cut to my specifications.Glenn

          10. Snort | Feb 02, 2009 12:57am | #34

            Just curious, is having custom doors made saving money over framing the opening down, then trimming and casing in a conventional manner?http://www.tvwsolar.com

            I went down to the lobby

            To make a small call out.

            A pretty dancing girl was there,

            And she began to shout,

            "Go on back to see the gypsy.

            He can move you from the rear,

            Drive you from your fear,

            Bring you through the mirror.

            He did it in Las Vegas,

            And he can do it here."

          11. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 02:23am | #36

            two flush masonite doors. $88 each, pre cut.Works for me.Glenn

          12. Snort | Feb 02, 2009 02:44am | #38

            As long as it works for her!http://www.tvwsolar.com

            I went down to the lobby

            To make a small call out.

            A pretty dancing girl was there,

            And she began to shout,

            "Go on back to see the gypsy.

            He can move you from the rear,

            Drive you from your fear,

            Bring you through the mirror.

            He did it in Las Vegas,

            And he can do it here."

          13. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 02:46am | #39

            That is what's important here, isn't it? I hope I'm right. I'm sending her an email now.Glenn

          14. Shep | Feb 01, 2009 05:13am | #26

            Both Don and DelawareDave each ordered that sandwich, the triple decker. The expressions when the waiter showed up with their food was priceless.

            I ordered the regular sandwich, and it was big enough to easily get two meals out of it.

            And it was really good corned beef.

  4. DanH | Jan 31, 2009 05:22pm | #16

    I don't generally see high-falutin homes to know what goes on there (do they even have bypass doors in McMansions?) but what I generally see is either the base notched or (more often) the base simply dead-ended before the corner turns into the opening. This means that the mudder needs to be a little neater near the floor, but no biggie.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
  5. Dave45 | Jan 31, 2009 06:30pm | #18

    That's very common around here and I handle it by leaving the baseboard off where the doors will touch the wall. The bottom track usually shows where the base needs to be removed and in most cases, the end of a wall would have no base. I either cut the base flush with the wall end, or do a return that's flush.

    Since it's pretty common to find that a door can only be adjusted to match one wall surface, I sometimes make them "right and left" (adjusted to match only one side) then do the base so only the "correct" door will meet the wall. The other door its the base before it can get to the wall.

  6. User avater
    IMERC | Jan 31, 2009 07:14pm | #19

    barroom hinges....

    no jambs.. no worries...

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!


    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

     

    "Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"

  7. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Feb 01, 2009 03:17am | #23

    I went thru this exact scenario about a month ago.  I got tired of trying to come up with inexpensive fixes and just told the single lady I would need to put in jambs and trim to match the other openings in the overly-expensive house.  I left out the overy-expensive part.

    Probably took less time to jamb, case, and hang the door properly than most other solutions I could come up (some of which are mentioned here.)

    Edit:  Installing jambs ensures the openings are dead plumb and the doors fit tightly

    "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.



    Edited 1/31/2009 7:18 pm ET by NickNukeEm

  8. rasconc | Feb 01, 2009 06:16am | #28

    I think I would cut the base and install one of these mouldings as a faux jamb/filler :

    http://www.eastcoastmouldings.com/main.cfm?pagename=products&category=11&subcategory=108

    For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
  9. User avater
    CapnMac | Feb 02, 2009 01:10am | #35

    Ok, cut the existing base out and slip in a finished pseudo-jamb the width of the door head.  This piece ought to be a bit thicker than the thickest part of the base.  That gives something for the doors to stop plumb to.

    Since using door stop might be complicated, consider dadoing the pseudo-jamb for the doors.

    The other reason for having this pseudo-jamb is to have a place for bumpers for the doors, too.

    One problem with bypass doors over bifolds is that the opening can never be more than about half open with bypasses.  With a bifold, the opening might lose 25 or 30%, but that's still more open than a bypass door.   Note too, as a longtime forced user 9over ten years) of bypass doors, that ones without a bottom track are hugely annoying (and ones with bind seasonally--and always have a toe-stubbing spot).

    Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
    1. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 02:24am | #37

      If I fall between studs on the walls, what am I nailing to, without having to open up the wall?Glenn

      1. User avater
        CapnMac | Feb 02, 2009 04:16am | #43

        fall between studs on the walls, what am I nailing to

        Same thing the doors will be smacked into after you hang them <g>.

        All sorts of ways to anchor stuff to in-place drywall.

        If you really want a jamb-less install, scribe the doors to the base profile, which will want doing four times (two doors, two sides).

        Note that, given my long experience with bypass doors, the sheetrock will develop a "door imprint" after a while.  Whether that's ok or not, I cannot surmise at this remove.

        I only bring this up to be in full disclosure, as having more information tends to make better informed decisions.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

      2. Piffin | Feb 02, 2009 07:27am | #44

        Ever use any glue? 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. tashler | Feb 02, 2009 01:43pm | #45

          Gosh, no.Do they sell that at HD, cause I might stop by and check it out.Glenn

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