Guys,
I built two cabinets for my kitchen and am trying to figure out the best way to deal with a big wall issue.
Bascially, I removed an old chimney and hired a drywaller to cover the opening and blend with the existing plaster walls. Long story short, he did a lousy job and there’s a big hump over one of the nailing rails he installed for the drywall. The hump is significantly higher (probably 1/2″) than the plaster walls.
It pulls the cabinet out from the wall by about 1/2″ and leaves a big gap between the wall and cabinet side.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to sort this out?
I was thinking of cutting the drywall back to the studs to do a let-in for the top rail (3″). Once the let-in is in place and flush with the existing plaster, I can shim, etc.
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts.
Replies
While I like your idea of letting in the plaster, won't it cause problems with the countertop,backsplash etc. Maybe redoing the plaster correctly is the best solution.
Your idea is probably the easiest. Beat the drywall out and get the cabinet to set as flush as you can.
The countertop will have to be scribed to the shape of the wall (and backsplash will need to be shimmed in place unless you are tiling, etc. Think about the next steps so that you dont pin yourself into a corner)
Depending upon what else is going on the wall, you could shim the cabinet, secure it and then install scribe molding on the sides of the cabinet where the gap is seen.
Old house=more crooked stuff and more creativity
Sorry, I should have mentioned this is an upper cabinet, so no worries on the countertop.
If a let-in is the way to go, is there a best material? I'm thinking of some really dry birch scraps I have, but could probably get some 1/2" MDO.
I certainly appreciate all the advice. It's good not to be lost in the wilderness.
Corrib,
In remodeling the best practice is any which makes it look like you've not been there..........
Except of course that what you do looks good.
I'm unsure what the dry birch has to do with cutting in the cab into the plaster so there's no gap on the end, but if the cabs built already you've got limited options.
Scribe, cut in or skin the end of the cab (if there's a lip on the face frame.
Best of luck.