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cabinet kicks or tile first?

JonE | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 4, 2007 09:14am

Simple question (I think):  in a typical installation, which gets installed first – kitchen cabinets or floor tile?  In this case, it will just be toekicks or bases, shimmed and leveled.  The cabinets are custom and will be installed later.  But, do I tile the whole floor and then glue the bases to the tile, or attach the bases to the subfloor and tile around everything?  FWIW – the “tile” is 12″ square gauged slate, not ceramic or porcelain.  And not the crappy imported slate either.

 

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  1. User avater
    shelternerd | Mar 04, 2007 09:22pm | #1

    cabs first tile covers any shims used to level the kicks.

    ------------------

    "You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."

  2. bldrbill | Mar 04, 2007 10:43pm | #2

    I like to put the kicks down first.  Makes it much easier if you later have to replace  cracked or broken tile.

  3. User avater
    MikeMicalizzi | Mar 04, 2007 10:57pm | #3

    Under most situations the cabinets will get installed first, then the tile, then the toe kicks.

    Of course there are those rare situations where someone may want "furniture grade" kitchen cabinets that sit on "little legs" and leave an exposed view of the flooring underneath. Then this situation would go tile first then the cabinets.

  4. IdahoDon | Mar 04, 2007 10:57pm | #4

    To my eye slate looks best if it's run under the toe kick and the wood is scribed along the irregular top of the slate.  The cabinets are set up a bit so the finished height is appropriate and the tile cut is hidden under the toe kick.  Sealing the scribed edge is a good idea.  Sanded caulk close to the same color as the tile works well, although on slate that's a crap shoot so it's better to make a good scribe and seal the wood.

    If the tile is run to the toe kick that joint should be sealed with sanded caulk or any crack will allow water to wick down and sit between grout and wood.  It's simply not possible to grout directly to wood and not have a hairline crack. 

    Also, carefully wipe any grout or mortor from the finished wood and never let it sit since more than once I've had tile guys ask how to "fix" the discolored wood after the fact.  Bummer dude, those are expensive. 

    Good grouting. 

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

    1. JonE | Mar 05, 2007 04:14am | #5

      Good advice, thanks all.

      The idea, then, is to set rough bases, shim and level, set the slate, and then apply a 'face' to the kicks on top of the slate.  I'll caulk between the slate and the rough kicks.

      The slate is gauged 1/4" very consistent and smooth, a uniform dark charcoal gray.  Native slate from a quarry about 40 miles up the road.  Not the african stuff that you tend to get cheap at the big box stores.   

      1. karp | Mar 06, 2007 04:51pm | #6

        Personally, I like to finish the floor first, then drop the cabs. on top. If you ever remodel, its nice to have a finished floor. Also, eating up the cab. hieght with tile can sometimes create other problems, like getting the D.W. under the contertop. If the tile cost is an issue, fly the tile past the kick and infil with appro. thickness of ply. but, of course, finish under fridge and stove. If all things are accounted for, then I guess its 6 of 1 , half dozen of the other.

        1. User avater
          JDRHI | Mar 06, 2007 07:55pm | #7

          I'm with you. Floor first, sit bases on top of finished tile.

          These pretzels, are making me thirsty.

           

           

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