Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 30, 2007 03:48am | #1

   You'll probably get more answers if you post this question in Fine Woodworking.  This gang of clowns can build anything but if you need tolerances of less than 1/4", you might as well fuggedaboudit! - lol

   Now that I've destroyed whatever good reputation I may have had in here, I'll take a shot at answering your question.  If you're talking about "flipper" doors (they open, then slide back into the cabinet), you're pretty much stuck with buying the real flipper door hardware.  I've seen it done with hardware like you see on a bi-fold door, but that takes some real effort to get just right and probably isn't worth the effort. 

1. 
   JDRHI | Dec 04, 2007 01:58am | #11

   Now that I've destroyed whatever good reputation I may have had in here...

   Not to worry....weren't much to begin with.

   ; )

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

1. 
   Dave45 | Dec 04, 2007 02:17am | #12

   One good thing about being near the bottom is that you can't really fall very far. - lol

2. 
   MrSQL | Nov 30, 2007 09:30pm | #2

   you could try hanging the doors the way the old barrister cabinet doors were done.

   Dowels at the hinge side of the door that slide back into a slot/groove.  I've never done this, but I have seen it.

    

    

1. 
   nortwoodspete | Nov 30, 2007 10:13pm | #3

   thanks for the dowel suggestion;  I like it.   Pete

3. 
   CapnMac | Dec 01, 2007 01:45am | #4

   have an inexpensive solution to pocket door hardware for entertainment center cabinet doors other than the $75 standard sets

   You do mean the swing-open-and-slide-back doors, right?

   Well, then, the answer is actually to move up to the $125-150 Häfle hardware, rather than the less-expensive stuff.

   Yeah, I know, that's not very helpful.  But, neither is replacing the hardware.  Or refinishing the doors when the rub or bind, either.

   The Häfle I liked best was the one that used a finished piece of lumber to set the mechanism upon--the wired rigs are finicky enough in the shop, out in the firled getting them adjusted (and the doors adjusted, too) was real pain.  Worse yet, they were a real bear on call-backs.

   And the bigger the door, the worse the problem.  Which can be very bad with some of the "barn doors" a letter-boxed panel display has you building the casework.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
4. 
   Dreamcatcher | Dec 01, 2007 08:33pm | #5

   Pete,

   As a part time cabinetmaker, I don't consider $75 a set expensive for flipper door systems, it's just how much they cost. Some sets are much more expensice than that.

   The dowel idea given will not work well. That is why flipper door hardware exists. The dowels will cause the doors to bind and eventually get stuck. The one upside to using dowels/going cheap is that most people never close the doors anyway. I usually address this with clients who want flipper doors on entertainment centers.

   I can't remember exact but didn't Finewoodworking once show a method of building your own hardware? Maybe it was a different mag, maybe it was just a better way of mounting bought hardware, maybe I just made it up in my head. Anyone?

   Try asking the chippies over at Knots.

   gk

1. 
   nortwoodspete | Dec 01, 2007 11:57pm | #6

   Thanks GK;  I agree with you that the fliper door hardware makes sense if I were building a cabinet for a customer and didn't want call backs but the question for an alternate was asked me by a co-worker who wanted to build a cab. for his son and didn't  want to spend the $ if an alternate was an option. This was my first attempt at using breaktime and probably should have asked finewoodworking guys originally. I have subscribed to fine homebuilding for 20+ yrs.and have used many great tips. I surely do appreciate your input.  Thanks again, Pete

2. 
   Dave45 | Dec 02, 2007 02:54am | #7

   There are two cabinet features that everyone seems to want - and almost never use.  The first is flipper doors on an entertainment center and the second is adjustable shelving in cabinets.

   How many times have you actually seen someone "hide" their TV?  I've only seen this done once and it was my own daughter.  Shortly after she got married, we went to their apartment and saw that the flipper doors were actually closed.  I said something about seldom seeing that and my new SIL almost spit out his beer.  Darlin' Daughter gave me a sh%^ eating grin and I realized that she had done that just for the PITA factor. - lol

   Adjustable shelves usually get adjusted when the cabinet is first loaded and are never moved again until the cabs are torn out during a remodel. - lol

5. 
   Stilletto | Dec 02, 2007 03:59am | #8

   I have used Euro style hinges mounted to a 1x,  then that 1x mounted to regular ball bearing drawer sldes.  I think that cost me around $30 to produce. 

   I haven't use this hardware you guys are talking about,  maybe it's the same as what I did. 

   Matt- Woods favorite carpenter. 

6. 
   Cabinetguy45 | Dec 02, 2007 04:37am | #9

   Have you thought about using a Tambor door instead of pocket doors?  Just like for a roll top desk. Saves money on hardware as it uses a simple track that the door slides up and over.

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 04, 2007 12:48am | #10

   Tambours can also operate sideways, one from each side and meet in the middle.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"