Replies

1. 
   mercer88 | Jul 23, 2002 08:17am | #1

   Our code states 1 part Portland cement + 1 part masonry cement + 3 to 4 parts sand.  1 yd of sand will cover approximately 324 sq. ft.

1. 
   Stoutenburgh | Jul 23, 2002 09:10am | #2

   Mercer88

   I will have to check on the code here about two types of cement, but the amount of sand is a big help.  324 sq ft is about 36 sq yrds, so for 400+ sq yrds I need 11+ yrds of sand.

   Thanks

   Clint

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 23, 2002 09:27pm | #3

   If the stucco is applied 7/8" thick, as is typical, 400 square yards would be 9.7 cubic yards.  So, 11 yards of sand should leave you a pretty good margin for error.

   -- J.S.

1. 
   Stoutenburgh | Jul 24, 2002 08:37am | #6

   Thanks John

   The supply place I am using wants tons, not Yards?  Someone there radioed someone else who said 1 ton is 1.3 yards.  Then they said I need about 20 tons - " a truck and trailer".  That would be about 15+ yards?  11 yards would be 15 tons.  Why can't everyone use the same terms?  Yards is the most straoght forward.

   Thanks again

   Clint

2. 
   fkern12 | Jul 24, 2002 05:04am | #4

   You'll use plastic cement, not Portland. Why are you lathing it with paper & wire, why not use bubblegum or k-lath? A pallet of bubblegum is 500 yards, its an easier install, and if you stretch it nice and tight I think you can get as nice as or nicer finish than paper & wire...

   The guys at the materials yard can easily tell you how much sand & cement you'll need for 400 yards, as they're going to deliver it right?

   If you have soffits, don't forget metal lath...And you'll need weepscreed, corneraid, and millcore if you have plan to plaster next to any exposed wood (or want a nicer finish around your doors.

1. 
   Stoutenburgh | Jul 24, 2002 08:09am | #5

   Thanks for the info.

   I'm lathing with paper (two layers) and wire because that is what they do around here, and that is what the plans specify.  I never heard of bublegum or kwrap, but I will check on it.  As owner builder I am doing almost everything my self.  The wrapping and the stuccoing is one thing I'm not doing myself.  I don't want too nice a finish, I need "lumpy/bumpy?" and trowel marks.  It is supposed to look like and old mission.  I know about the corneraid, and weepscreed, but I will hav to check on the millcore.  I have faux wod lintels over all the doors and windows(1x to be burried in the stucco), and the windows are inset.  The millcore is probably what I need over the lintels.

   Thanks again

   Clint

   Edited 7/24/2002 1:25:24 AM ET by Clint

1. 
   fkern12 | Jul 25, 2002 04:37am | #7

   The nice finish I was referring to is not the smoothness of the texture. I was referring to lack of cracks due to baggy wire(all stucco is going to crack to some extent) and nice straight walls.

   You've really got to stretch the wire pretty tight with paper & wire, the lather has to be more skilled. The engineered products are a little more forgiving without cracking at every vertical and horizontal joint (and easier to estimate).

   Another way to make your plaster job come out nice is to make sure you have good backing for the lath at all the edges, inside corners, gable peaks, around the vents, panel, and utility boxes. I was always amazed how many times no backing would be installed and the lather is supposed to nail to air.

   I'm not too far from you, just a drive northwest up Hwy 138 to the High Desert...Worked in Riverside at March & Norton AF Bases in the '80's.

1. 
   Stoutenburgh | Jul 25, 2002 07:09am | #9

   Thanks

   I'm near March, in the hills between Lake Perris & Hemmit.  I can see a little bit of Lake perris from my back porch.

   Clint

1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 25, 2002 05:29pm | #10

   a cubic yard of sand is 2700 lbs. That is a clean white sand that runs appromate 99 lbs per cubic foot. now this is compacted weight so fluff weight be around 2500 lbs.

2. 
   Stoutenburgh | Jul 26, 2002 08:38pm | #11

   So who ever it was at the stucco supply place that said 1 yrd = 1.3 tons was about right.

   Thanks, Clint

2. 
   fkern12 | Jul 25, 2002 04:50am | #8

   Regarding millcore on faux lintels:

   You probably only need millcore if the wood is structural or the wood/stucco joint is going to be real noticeable. The millcore gives the plasterer a definite edge to finish to which is lacking with wood, and it protects the wood from moisture infiltration through the stucco somewhat.

   For moisture protection I've seen it used a lot on soffits where the plaster will butt against the top plate, or around exposed rafters which are carrying load. For aesthetics, I've seen it used around doorframes, wood plan-ons, sometimes utility-type boxes etc.

   All that said, you probably don't need any millcore if the wood is only decorative.

   Good luck, should turn out real nice.