Can framers increase a home’s energy efficacy?
user-7871427
| Posted in General Discussion on
Hello Fine Homebuilding world.
I am co-owner and operator of a small company that specializes in framing homes. When I bid jobs, I often include nails, and glue as part of my costs. In my area the G.C. or lumber yard figures out building materials.
What can I do to this standard lumber package to make a common home more energy efficient?
What products could I add to the standard framing practice?
What small, cost-effective changes could I recommend to the G.C. or homeowner?
My crew is small and inspired by Passive Home designs. We are seeking to add some steps in our framing process to get a better, more energy efficient product.
Replies
You often include nails and glue in your pricing? How do you handle those costs when you don't include them? Are they handled differently than other framing materials?
Since you're focusing on nails and glue - look into insulating nails (aka IF, insulating fasteners. You will also need to invest in a new nail gun) and energy efficient glues and adhesives (aka - ISA glues, Insulating Structural Adhesives. Each brand has its own dispenser and battery). Both are more expensive but once you start using them you'll never look back, and the customer will love you after they get their first heating bill.
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I am not focusing on nails or glue. I was just mentioning how I already buy some products and am looking to buy more. Specifically, something that does not have a huge added cost or huge added labor.
To frame a house, nails and glues usually only cost hundreds of dollars on bids that make 10s of thousands. Kind of a drop of water in the ocean. I choose to cover that cost for two reasons.
1) never having to run to the lumber yard to get more fasteners. 2) I am one of the only people in my region that nails the OSB to the studs. Almost everyone else uses staples. And I use the foam glue and everyone else uses the standard subfloor glue.
Thanks for the input. I will look into the products that you have mentioned.
Does anyone add steps to sealing the mud sill, or around windows? Added blocking?
Hey there, Simplest answer to your question about how framers can improve energy efficiency is "less wood = more insulation". Avoid lots of unnecessary wood, in the form of large headers in non-load bearing openings, doubled rough sills at windows for example. Frame walls, roofs 24" on center if possible and add foam to multi ply headers for thermal breaks. These are simple things framers can do as part of their work, but of course, the following trades need to be on the same page.
Agreed that less wood is a great approach to allow more room for insulation. I often leave out studs and cripples if another framing member is within 5 inches or so.
I also ladder block the corners using scraps. I am considering using left over 3/4 from the sub floors and make a cali corner with that?
I am going to start pushing for 24" OC studs, but people are scared of change I guess.
I am builder who specializes in air-tight construction. We do all of our own framing. Every house we have framed has tested at 0.6 ACH50 or better pre-insulation.
The single best thing you can do is air seal as you frame. You can get to places that others can't later in the process. We go through a couple cases of accoustical sealant on every house.
Get a battery powered caulk gun and lay continuous beads of sealant at all critical junctions. This combined with Zip sheathing will get your customers more bang for their buck than anything else.
Also adjust your framing techniques to avoid areas that are difficult to insulate. Use corners and wall ties that do not create voids. Shift floor joists from a straight standard layout to avoid rim areas that are hard to reach. These things don't cost any extra, just require a little more thought in your process and will become habit quickly.
I have watched videos and am very interested in adding acoustical sealant to our building practice. I understand that it functions great as an air sealant because it never hardens.
Would you suggest a bead on both sides of mud sill? edges of OSB? around Windows?
I want to start suggesting Zip to the clients as well. I have used it once and loved it.
What types of corners and wall ties would you recommend?
We build two stud corners and then use scraps of sheathing to make the backer. For wall ties, we build the interior adjoining wall, stand it, then fasten a 7" wide rip of sheathing to the end stud, and then slide it into place. Put a couple of flat 2x4 blocks between the studs on the outer wall to stiffen things up. If the interior wall lands on an exterior wall stud, we will rip 1/2" off of that stud when we are building the exterior wall.
When assembling our mud sills we put a bead of sealant on the wood, then staple some sill seal over it, and then put another bead of sealant on the foundation. The sill seal still acts us a capillary break, but then all layers are sealed. Sealant also goes on the outside face of the mudsill when before you sheath it. Last place you need the sealant is along the top plate of your wall where the zip sheathing hits it. Tape covers all the other areas.
There are lots of fancy tapes and gaskets, but this method is inexpensive and easy. And it works!
Thank you for the reply.
Ripping a half inch off of the exterior stud to receive the adjoining wall is a super cool trick!
I really like the idea of using ply for backing.
You can use plate sealer, foam blind corners, and do all kinds of stuff the builder isn't likely to pay for. My experience has been that no one wants to pay for any extras unless they ask for them.
I am looking for low-cost extra steps that I will not pass onto the G.C. / Homeowner.
I have put foam into corners before, at no added cost.
Search the site for "Advanced Framing" for a wealth of info:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/?s=advanced+framing
I am quite familiar with the concepts of advanced framing AKA Value Optimized Engineering. Thanks for providing the link.
Using less wood is really a no brainer, once you know where to do it. For us framers, it usually means less cuts and carrying less wood. At the same time allowing more room for insulation.
With my post I wanted to expand on those ideas as well as create a discussion.
We are doing pretty good so far.
"Well talking about your existing framing process, you can add extra energy-efficient fittings. Also while using home appliances you make sure they are energy efficient and do not consume more power than the requirement.
Along with this if you are ready to go for an alternative option then you can generate your own energy from renewable energy sources.
By using a solar rooftop system you can easily generate your own energy for your home.
To more about this you can check here: https://agnisolar.com/products/solar-rooftop-system/"