can I bend a hem in a standing seam metal roof without the correct tools?
I have never done a standing seam roof before.
I am building a 4500 sq ft workshop.
I thought a standing seam roof was out of my budget … and it is if I have a contractor install it.
They I found a standing seam roof that can go over purlins ….. $7K to sheet the roof … $1500 if I put 2 x 4’s every 24″ ….. that brings the metal roof in line with a standard shingle roof.
I found roofing that is snap lock so I don’t need to worry about a machine to seal the seams.
My only issue it the two long seams at the start and finish of the roof … a 37 ft long hem!
I watched all the videos … looks like they use a rolling bender to get the 90 … then a disc bender to get it over the rest of the way.
There tools are expensive and once I do the 4 hemmed edges, I will not need them again.
I called a few rental places … no one has one to rent.
I looked on ebay and facebook marketplace … no cheap version of the tools and no used ones for sale.
So, my question, can I make this bend any other way?
I thought about using the 18″ bender I will need at the bottom of each panel and going along with it but I was worried it would leave a mark at the end every time I move it.
Here is a link to some videos of he project of youtube: workshop videos
Here is a link to a post I put up yesterday showing the shop: facebook post
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Mike
Replies
I’ve done this a handful of times, but I’m not a roofing contractor. Anyway, there’s usually a gable trim that will lap over the first panel, and depending on how the layout works/is planned you may have to “rip” the final panel to width and bend up a standing-seam-height leg. Then that cut and field-bent leg gets lapped by a gable trim. Because that bent leg gets fully covered by the gable trim, it doesn’t have to be pretty. I’ve had some luck with bending those long legs (I’ve done one at 39’!) with various homemade setups, but a simple folding tool from Malco could be a better bet. It typically helps to work your way along the fold several times, bending in increments of 15-30* until you’re at 90*.
The installation details show I can use a trim piece or hem the length over what I would call a drip edge (same as the lower end).
The problem I see with their trim piece (and maybe others are different) is that it requires sealant and some holes to fasten it down.
There is what I call a Z trim that requires sealant and fasteners to hold it ... then a cap that hooks over that with rivets holding the two together. The bottom hooks over another piece of metal ... three pieces plus fasteners and sealant to make an edge.
Their "alternate" detail shows just a hem the same at the lower edge of the roof. As I said, the problem with this is you need special tools.
What brand of roof did you use? Maybe they have a better edge detail.
Thanks!
Some of these trim detail options can get pretty elaborate…and expensive. What I’ve done is more like the first detail, although without the concealed fastener cleats. I bend up the final roofing panel leg as shown in that first detail, then the gable trim goes up the fascia and the height of the bent leg, over something like 1.5”, then down to meet the valley bottom of the roofing panel. No need for sealant anywhere, and I only place gasketed screws on the fascia leg (into the sub fascia framing), so the roofing remains concealed fastener only. The gable trim I’ve placed this way is very secure, but I’ve been using 24 ga steel, so it’s a very beefy trim with lots of bends. The more complex trim details with multiple cleats may be better if you need to design for hurricanes or tornadoes.
Also, the roofing I buy isn’t branded, but the local business that forms the panels and bends the trims is super helpful with these details…and there are usually good options for folks who might not have all the tools that a roofing contractor would.
Awesome!
Yes, the detail they show adds up to about $15 per ft! So about $2400 just for the edge.
Even buying the correct tools will only be $1K
I like the way you did it ... I will have to draw it out
They don't seem to offer a fascia with a hem on the top. I would need to find a way of bending it ... but maybe this could be done on a simple siding bender.
I have been trying to find a local supplier ... so far no luck. One of the problems with VT ... our largest city has 42,000 people
Thanks again !!!!!!!!
Mike
You can use the hemming tool, but with 26 or 24 ga it is a real bear and takes a long time and you may lose part of your soul. You might consider hiring a company with the power tool to come do those two panels. Or look for the alternatives. My company had a couple of options, one was the gable trim that looked like drip edge, with the panel being field formed with the hook, like you're talking about. The other option was a couple of pieces of trim that made a box over the standing seam that stayed. That ended up, as you said, more expensive due to the three pieces of trim needed.
That looks like Union Corrugating (exact same specs?). I was using Advantage-Lok II and if you are using 26ga, it's definitely doable with the hemming tool. Takes a lot of small bends, to get the break, and then it folds easier.
Thanks!
I am not locked into this company ... just one I found on the web. I tried several local roofing suppliers ... none could supply me with self locking panels (two said they had machines to bend panels but I would need to crimp the seams).
Yes, these are 26 ga. I don't know if that is good or bad. Standing seam roofs are not often used in our area and almost never on residential housing.
I don't even know if one brand is better than another.
Thanks ... Mike
I had superior customer service with Union Corrugating. My local supplier was touch and go and at times not terribly helpful. I even went to the Orange VA plant and got a two hour crash course training by the former plant manager (phase 1 had a lot of complex and unusual custom skylights to work around; phase 2 was bigger but way easier). The 26 ga. is stiff but can be bent with their hemming tool. If it's 37 foot run, I assume you are having two panels, overlapping?
I had planned on one piece 37 ft long .... is there a reason I should not?
They said there was no problem cutting them this long ... crating them ... and sending them to me on a flat bed semi.
Not that I know of. If they can crate it and unload it safely, and you can get it up on its edge and into place, better not to have to deal with the overlap. I had 25' lengths and they were a bit floppy for two people to handle while moving it up the roof.
Good to know. I have been thinking about how to get them up without bending them. Maybe some kind of slide ... maybe a platform for the telehandler that keeps them flat .... have three or even 4 guys slide them off and over the roof.
Should be a fun challenge.
Mike
Attached is a photo showing the pretty simple way I’ve approached this a few times (basically all the words in my posts above). The roofing is 2” mechanical seam, with the gable trim fascia leg being 6”. The second attachment shows the seam machine and the field bent leg on the final panel before I installed the gable cap/lap trim that you can see in the first photo. I’ve been using the mechanical seam panels on roofs down to 1:12 pitch, whereas the snap seam panels may not be rated to go that low. Just something to consider. Also, when I buy $6-12k of roofing panels and trim, the small business that makes the panels and trims simply lends me the mechanical seamer (and hand seamers that are needed start and finish each seam). I’ve also used a lot of the 1” snap lock style panels for siding. They’re great to work with.
I’d be a bit surprised if the folks that form the panels couldn’t bend up almost any trim detail you’d need. Whenever I order roofing (or metal siding) there’s a fair amount of sketching various trim profiles before the order is set.
Exactly what you described.
I have a 4: 12 (almost 5 : 12) pitch.
The snap lock panels I am looking at have a 1 3/4" profile.
I had not thought about it for siding ... great idea.
And this is why I am doing the roof myself. Last year the material cost was about $10K ... I got a quote of $32K from a roofer ... plus he wanted me to sheet the roof (so another $7K). I think the material is about $15K now (just took a quick look at the price sheet ... seems to have gone up about %50). I can't imagine what the roofer would want to charge now.
Should be an interesting challenge ... but no more than this entire project has been.
Thanks !!!!!!
Mike
Hey Mike,
I’m in a similar situation, resigned my fate to doing my own standing seam after talking with contractors. I’m also here in VT. I was getting ready to bite the bullet and just purchase some tools, I was planning on mechanical seamed. If you’re interested we could chat about the projects and sharing tools. I’ll send you a message through your Facebook link.
Thanks
Brian
Awesome.
I am using the nice weather today to build the last section of wall!
I just got word the roof trusses are going to be delivered next week.
You can message me through facebook or here is a link to a web page I have with my e-mail on it.
Thanks!
https://www.vermontcountryworkshop.com