Can I cut and lower plank&beam floor?
A BIT O’ BACKGROUND INFO:
a) House built in 1960, single-story, raised foundation, southern California, 2×4″ stud walls, plank & beam subfloor.
b) Floor support structure: 4×6″ beams on 48″ centers, with posts & piers on 48″ centers along the lengths of the beams (piers are 8″ diameter concrete, poured in place but I don’t know how deep they go). House has withstood three earthquakes over 6.5 on the Richter scale with no damage, so I know it is well-built.
c) Subfloor planking is tongue & groove, actual measured thickness is 1.5″, width is 5″ (not incl tongue). Length of each plank appears to span at least three beams, maybe more.
PROJECT: Renovating a small bathroom. Removing the original floated-concrete, ceramic tile shower enclosure back to the studs, new hotmop pan, re-scratch-coat, re-float and re-tile. At the same time, we will tear out the room’s existing vinyl sheet-flooring and 0.25″ plywood sheathing down to the subfloor planks. We want to replace the floor with the same tile as is being used for the shower, and also run the same tile up the wall behind the sink, as a waterproof wainscot. Out of respect for the style of construction of this house and it’s performance for over 40 years, I want the tile installer to float the floor for the tile base at the same time he floats the shower enclosure. I would also like the new tile floor to be flush with the wooden floor in the bedroom into which the bathroom opens.
TWO QUESTIONS:
1) As long as I make sure the proposed dropped section is well-attached and well-supported, is there anything wrong with cutting out that section of subfloor planking and dropping it 1.5″ or so? I plan to cut the planks underneath the bathroom floor clean to the walls, screw 2×4″ cleats to the sides of the 4×6″ beams, drop the planks 1.5″, screw them down to the new cleats, then screw 0.75″ plywood to the lowered planks. In addition to screws, I’ll use the appropriate adhesive between layers for added strength/quietness. On top of the 0.75″ plywood goes the floated concrete, thinset and tile. Goal is to allow for vertical build-up of the concrete float, thinset and tile, so that the finished tile floor is level with the surrounding wood floor in the bedroom. I believe this technique would also stiffen the floor due to the added 0.75″ plywood atop the existing (but lowered) planking. I know I can support the soon-to-be-dropped flooring very well in that local area, but I’m a bit fearful that cutting the planks at all will somehow compromise the overall structural strength of the subfloor and therefore the house itself (remember, earthquake country).
2) I’d also like to drop the bottom of the shower pan so that it is a “step-down” shower, rather than having a raised curb to step over. I have the vertical room to drop the subfloor under the shower and make the pan 3.5″ deep, is that deep enough to meet code? I can add beams and posts/piers in the area underneath the shower pan if necessary for strength. It never made sense to me to put a water-containing pan sitting on top of the structural flooring anyway, which is a secondary reason I’d like to drop the pan below floor level. It should be the lowest point in the system so any leaks don’t run along the floor into adjoining rooms.
I would appreciate any insights and/or professional advice as to whether my plan is a good thing or a bad thing to do to this house.
Thank you,
Ray
Replies
I know exactly what your lookiong at under your house. I own one just like it.
I just removed the entire kitchen floor and replaced the T&G 2x6 with 2x10 joists hung off the 4x6 beams and then put 1 1/8th T&G ply over it. the reason for this was The wife wanted tile in there and the 2x6's would move way to much.
what you want to do (from a common sense perspective only) sounds reasonable. but I would pull the old T&G 2x6 and replace with ply and joists dropped down some. Depending on where the bathroom landed between the 4' oc beams.... you might need some piers to hold up one end of the joists.
I am sure one of the framers / masons on here can offer better / more informed advice.
Christmas is coming..... should I buy the wife that new tablesaw ....hmmmm
AdamB,
Thank you for the reply.
Sorry to show my ignorance, but when you said "...then put 1 1/8 T&G ply over it....", do you mean there is a specific plywood product that is 1 1/8" thick and is tongue and groove?
Also, I'm curious to know how you cut the planks close to the walls of your kitchen?
Thank You,
RJB
1 1/8 T&G ply
Yep any decent lumber yard will have it. Even the big box stores have it around here. (Lowes & Home Depot). Just just ask for someone with a clue..... lol or go to a lumber yard.
I have an older Makita Sawzall and I just stuck a blade on backwards that went through the planks and cut away...
first cut off what you can with a circular sawChristmas is coming..... should I buy the wife that new tablesaw ....hmmmm
IMHO, the let in planking skinned with 3/4 will be stronger, earthquake wise, than the existing.
I think that your step-down shower will be more dangerous than a conventional one. It harder to keep ones balance on a changine elevation than when stepping over a low obstacle.
SamT
SamT,
You raise a good point about the change in elevation. There is a particular hotel I stay in routinely on company business, and the tub floor is maybe 3 inches higher than the room floor. It makes for an uncomfortable step out of the tub and onto the floor. Point well taken.
Thank you,
RJB