Foam insulation is not that common out here, at least I am not familiar with it.
I am doing a fix of some crooked framing ( ceiling 2″ out of level ) and about ten can lights need to be dropped to new ceiling height.
Problem is that the cans are essentially “glued” in place by the foam insulation.
The cans are 4″ halogen and are marked “air tight, complies w/ ASTM#E283 and no enclosure required” and have a factory box around the can.
Is it standard practice to insulate w/ spray in foam right onto these type of fixtures?
I got one loose after using a keyhole all around, but it took about 40 minutes, any good ideas to make it go faster?
I am mostly concerned if the existing situation is safe, the lights are new and have not been powered up yet.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
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Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Mike -
If those cans were mine, I would contact the manufacturer to find out if they're IC (insulation contact) rated.
Even if they are, I would ask about encapusulating them in foam. IC rated cans are ok in contact with blown or batt insulation, but foam may be a totally different situation.
Dave, I see you are from S.J., I am in Alameda, thanks for the reply.
This is the first time I have seen a house insulated with foam. The lights are pretty much encapsulated with it. I will try and get ahold of the electrician that put them in tonight. The fixtures say air tight on them, but it just does not seem right.
This foam seems like a nightmare if there is any need for rework, the wiring is buried and impossible to see or trace by sight. I am going to meet with the parties involved tonight and see what can be done.
I was kind of hoping someone with foam experience would chime in, I know some people here do it. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Mike -
Do you know when that foam was put in - and who did it? Encapsulating the cans is one possible problem, but what about all the junction boxes up there? If they're encapsulated in foam, are they still "accessible"??
The covers on the side of the cans are still accessible, there shouldn't be any junction boxes in the ceiling.
I was asked today to drop the cans down myself, to control any damage.
I have to drop the cans as much as 2" and will be cutting the foam away from the cans, just to be able to move them, so contact with the foam will be eliminated in the process. The hard part wil be finding the staple securing the romex near each can.
It is frustrating to have to fix a sloppy job. The worst part is the original carpenter furred down the joists so the cans would fit, too bad he didn't bring a level. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Mike -
I was actually asking about the regular wiring junction boxes that may be up there. Most attics I've been in have several scattered around. If they're encapsulated too, would they be considered "accessible"?
This is more of a flat roof under a deck w/o attic space. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Any further info on "insulation contact" rating and the foam?Here in Alaska, vapor barriers and insulation quality is important.I have used recessed lights with vapor barrier and Insulation contact ratings. In no way were they even close to being vapor tight.Always considered spraying foam around the can, making it vapor tight. But was always unsure weather the foam acceptable as "insulation contact", ie. would the light overheat.