Has anyone ever used SIP roof panels on a stick framed structure?
I have a complete roof tear off in my near future and the framing is undersized (100+ yr old dimensional 2×6) my options right now are:
1. sister new lumber and keep existing pitch
2. tear off every thing, block as neceassary, and stick frame new roof
3. tear off every thing, block as neceassary, install roof trusses
4. SIP’s ??
I’d like to do as much of the framing/ roofing myself (as time permits) Odviously with trusses it would be adventageous to coordinate a crane/ forklift and certainly this would be a necessity with SIPS.
I should also mention that the exisiting roof pitch is too low for any usable space in the attic and my preference would be to completely tear it out, frame an exterior wall extension and increase the pitch to facilitate the eventual attic conversion. The material cost differential is miniscule when considering keeping the existing roof pitch vs. increasing it. The amount of time and labor is about double, which is a major consideration should I try to do anything myself. Id have to extend the walls higher in order to use trusses (scissors trusses) but it would expedite things considerably and get the roof on a heck of a lot quicker.
SIPS, depending on cost could do the same for me
Replies
joemilw,
Yes, you could use SIP's in the way you suggested.. However you need to be aware that SIP's do have span limitations.. You might need to put some trusses or timbers in place depending on span.
If you are near Milwaukee there are plenty of hardwood sawmills around and the typical prices for timbers would be a lot cheaper than prices for trusses..
If you worry about your skill in doing timberframing.. it's a lot easier than they make it seem.. plus you could simply do post and beam. (if you can stick frame you can do post and beam)..
You could make the post and beam or timberframes prior to tearing off the roof so everything was pretty much ready to go in place at once..
Just for information I paid about $3.50 per square foot for my roof panels.. but that was several years ago. Now I should imagine the prices are significantly higher now..
A telehandler will be very usefull in tearing off the old roof.. stab the forks into the roof and lift it off and lower it to the ground. Take it apart on the ground. very nice and easy way to do things..
Frenchy-
I was hoping youd weigh in on this, Ive tried to catch up your own projects and admittedly am impressed. BTW, I was born not far from your home...my parents had a small home a couple blocks from minnetonka.
I'd love to attempt a timber frame at some point in the future and love the look, however, I should clarify that my house is a small single story bunglelow with a low-medium pitch roof. As I wouldnt be touching the first floor framing and may never get around to finishing the attic space, Im simply looking to gain more usable storage space which would allow for future expansion. Timber framing would not be a good fit for what Im trying to accomplish. Think of it as removing the existing existing roof/ rafters to the first floor ceiling and replacing it with a better one. probably the easiest way to accomplish this would be stick frame everything, this would be time consuming as well for a one man show with occasional help. Since I cant really afford to pay someone else to quickly tear off and re frame/ re-roof, I wouldnt want to risk water/ critters getting in while the roof is off for 2-4 weeks.
While I may not need timbers for this project, I would like any info you have regarding saw mills in my area. It could be a valuble resource for future projects. Also, do you have any contacts to SIP manufacturers/ suppliers in SE Wisconsin?
Joemilw,
There is a manufacturer in Prairie Du Chen I believe. They sell the same SIP I used in my place. R control. The phone number in the back of my manual is 1 800 255 0176 general information or 1 800 255 3908 for technical information. I don't know if that's local number (likely no longer valid) or a national number.
I understand what you are attempting to do.. I tore a little off at a time doing my place. Timbers could actually go up faster than stick framing or you could simply get whatever size you need from a local sawmill rather than pay lumberyard prices. The differance would be that the sizes you get are actual rather than nominal. Another words a 2x8 would actually be 2 inches by 8 inches instead iof the nominal 1 1/2 inches by 7 1/2 inches of lumberyard wood.