Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 2000 03:46pm | #1

   *
   Tina,

   You will need to pull those old tile off first.

   Pete

1. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 2000 06:17pm | #2

   *Create a mortar bed, sloped correctly with thinset, and then lay the new tile. Or hire Pete... he's closer, and a cow-tipper from waaaaay back.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 2000 09:42pm | #3

   *Yipes! It's a coin toss. Sure hope I get some more feedback on this one. Pete -- what's your reasoning for pulling the old -- I know probably the "right" way to do it, but what problems would we be creating if we did tile over the old? I can see how the front edge would probably look goofy since there's trim tile there that would be built up over....

1. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 2000 10:24pm | #4

   *Tina, if you rough up the existing tile, it might work. I'd be wary since it is in a water-intensive area. (I tried putting tile over tile on my drainboard--not very water-intensive, using mastic(sp?). Complete failure. Tiles kept coming loose.) I suppose it might depend on how long you want it to last, but since the original slant was wrong, there might be hidden damage. I'd strongly suggest a tearout; it's not that hard--just dusty and noisy.P.S. I was only a "helper," not a "setter." JMHO.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 2000 03:43am | #5

   *Tina,Other than being the "Right Way", you would have trouble with adhering your new tile to the old. Is it that difficult to pull the old ones off or is there some particular reason why you would rather not? Like George said, you need to create a mortar bed with the right slope, then go ahead and lay new tile. Another thought is whether or not the existing structure beneath those old tiles is as sound and watertight as it should be. Tiling over a poor base could likely mean have a repeat of the same problems in the near future.George,She's a "high country cattle rancher" and in Ohio we're "big valley corn farmers". Somehow I don't think I am that close but then again you would still be right, I am closer than you unless of course Maine is where all that High Country Cattle Ranching goes on but I don't seem to remember that being the case. Well I got to go pick up the wife now. she's at some big country music shin-dig, downtown. 9 hours long already!Pete

2. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 2000 08:10am | #6

   *Tina, already starting with the remodels? Where's the original tile setter in all this? This is a patent AND a latent defect.You have two concerns here. One, you want the proper slope (pitch and direction). Two, this is a wet area and you need to assure waterproof integrity. I have two suggestions about how to procede in correcting the existing tile defect. One, remove the existing tile on the horizontal surface only. This would include the trim tiles at the front. Since this is selective demolition, use a 4" grinder, masonry drill, or cold chisels to isolate these tiles from the tiles that will remain. Take care to not damage the mortar bed or waterproof membrane. Try to slide under and pry loose instead of hammering to death. Dampen existing mortar bed, apply neat coat of pure cement/water slurry to mortar bed and refloat to correct slope. The new mortar bed shall taper to zero thickness at front to allow proper width grout joint adjoining remaining tiles, using trim as needed.Two, remove existing trim tiles at front of bench only. Scarify existing tiles on horizontal surface and apply trowel-applied waterproof membrane. (Hydroment's UltraSet comes to mind.) Wait 24 hours for cure. Install new tiles to correct slope using mortar bed or thinset. Trim and grout to taste.In either case, if you have a return or outside corner on your bench seat, you will have a rather unsightly grout joint at the top of the vertical where it meets the seat.Sorry for being so verbose. I reiterate: where's the tile setter? He's definitely on the hook. Unless you did the work yourself, in that case you're feeling rather sheepish on a cattle ranch.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 2000 03:09pm | #7

   *Thanks Pete and Rich. The original tile setter is not invited back because he really doesn't seem to care about his work (the wrong slope was just the worst of the problems...others were aesthetic/careless). So the sub who subbed the tile work is paying for our multi-talented carpenters (who also did some tile work in the house and did a beautiful job) to redo the bench top. Fortunately, there's no return or outside corner...bench is built-in to shower wall on 3 sides.Thanks for the detailed and helpful (not verbose) suggestions...they'll be put to good use. Think we'll probably take out the "old" (what, 2 months or so?) and lay it in correctly that way. It certainly seems like the right way to go IMHO. Thanks again..Tina

4. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 2000 07:12am | #8

   *Yes, I agree with the cautious -- if the nitwit (who was what, a sub-sub?) didn't even slope it right, do you want to build on top of what you can't see? Such as leaks, or leaks, or leaks. Smack 'em out (um, gently) and build up those rancher muscles. If you're lucky, he didn't do a good job installing them.Rich ... what are the patent v. latent defects here? Not that I'd ever sue a tiler! :) (For the curious, pronounced PAY-tent, meaning "obvious." Latent is, well, the not-so-obvious.)