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Discussion Forum

Can you paint Galvinized metal?

ozbuilder | Posted in General Discussion on September 17, 2005 10:02am

Can you paint Galvinized metal? Is theeir a special primer you have to use?

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  1. rez | Sep 17, 2005 10:09pm | #1

    If you are in oz land you may be able to get the paint that has zinc in it.

    I needed something of that nature a while back and discovered it wasn't available in the states although IMERC said his local hardware store had it.

    The search function doesn't work or I'd give you the name of the stuff.

    Well, google still works. Maybe this will help.
    http://www.dot.state.fl.us/specificationsoffice/qplnew/Items/Galvanizing%20Compound.htm

     

    sleeps till noon but before it's dark...


     



    Edited 9/17/2005 3:24 pm ET by rez

  2. DanH | Sep 17, 2005 10:32pm | #2

    Let it weather a few months if possible, wash it down with mild acid (vinegar will do), and prime with an oil primer suited for metal.

    1. BarryO | Sep 17, 2005 11:23pm | #9

      Let it weather a few months if possible, wash it down with mild acid (vinegar will do), and prime with an oil primer suited for metal.

      FWIW, while Rustoleum recommends an oil-based primer for bare steel, they recommend a water-based one for galvanized steel, or aluminum.  They sell it retail as an "Aluminum Primer".  Top coat can be either water ot oil, once the primer is fully cured.

      1. AndreaRichard03 | Jun 30, 2011 12:44am | #16

        Rustoleum rep recommended Zinser Bullseye 123 or "Aluminum Prime

        I am also in the process of painting old galvanized metal. Did some research and was confused by some of the same issues.

        Called Rustoleum they recommended pretty much what BarryO says. Galvanized metal should have a water base primer, he recommended  Zinser's  Bullseye 123 (they recently bought the company)  or "Aluminum primer" .

        I thought that etching was to create a tooth that the primer could adhere to, he said it was more about cleaning. Recommended mineral spirits for cleaning. 

        They also have a product for rusty metal, which he did not recommend in the absence of rust. 

        So as it turns out there seems to be several categories of steel that require different treatments.

        Bare steel - Oil base primer 

        Rusty steel - either sanded or scraped clean - or  treated with a rust converter (preferably with tannic acid) followed by  primer

        Galvanized steel (which seems to be treated similarly to aluminum with a highly adhesive water base primer ) 

        Now,  I'm not a professional painter just a homeowner who does a lot of research. My next step is to chose a top coat for this metal cap and also to cover old fibrous cement siding. 

        Also I will need to prep this peeling siding. I'm not keen on scraping it because it contains asbestos.

        Any ideas?

        Andrea

        1. DanH | Jun 30, 2011 07:02am | #17

          Keep in mind that, in general, you need to paint within a few days of priming.  Not good to leave primer exposed for long periods of time.

    2. TRIGGER | Sep 17, 2005 11:41pm | #10

      I heard that vinegar etches galv. metal, like you said, just as good as the more expensive stuff you can buy.

      Jack

      1. cynwyd | Sep 18, 2005 12:48am | #12

        I've etched with vinegar and you can feel the paint grab right off your brush. Or the other liquids you prep with it's also low impact. Things like liquid sandpaper are a cheap thrill, never was a huffer though.  

        1. joewood | Sep 18, 2005 01:04am | #13

          I've always just wiped down new galvy hardware with paint thinner to remove the oil then top coated with an epoxy paint to (hopefully) extend the life. Isn't that enough ? What should I use (besides thinner) before painting, and what's this about using a water based paint on galvy ? Is that just for weathered stuff ?

  3. User avater
    Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 10:34pm | #3

    Penetrol. If you can get it there. Most good paint store will have it around here.

      Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    1. Lansdown | Sep 17, 2005 10:37pm | #4

      And I thought you were going to suggest magnets again.<g>

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 10:40pm | #5

        Ah yes! The magnetic paint store!..thanks fer jogging my memory.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        1. Lansdown | Sep 17, 2005 10:54pm | #6

          Actually (seriously now) isn't there a process called electro static painting for things like elevator doors and radiator covers.

          1. User avater
            Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 11:02pm | #7

            Yep. And if it is heat tolerant and small enuff one could powder coat it too. The oil still needs to be removed first. Prior to annodizing and nickle plating parts in a shop I worked at, we used a degreasing tank with something like MEK or Tolulol..whoo hoo, who needed drugs?  That stuff would launch you.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

          2. Lansdown | Sep 17, 2005 11:09pm | #8

            I once used Tolulol..whoo hoo to clean an engine block (it was out of the vehicle - art project - long story), and I think I'm still stoned from it.LOLAnyways, I'm about to reinstall my OS, so if you don't hear from me for awhile, throw out a life preserver will ya', cyberly speaking.

            Edited 9/17/2005 4:20 pm ET by TGNY

  4. TrimButcher | Sep 18, 2005 12:33am | #11

    Yes, there are special primers for galvanized metal.

    Here's Pittsburgh Paint's information:

    http://www.ppg.com/ppgaf/special6.htm

    Regards,

    Tim Ruttan

  5. User avater
    jhausch | Sep 18, 2005 02:12am | #14

    http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm

    GALVANIZED - where appearance is important, apply one coat of OSPHO, let stand for approximately thirty minutes or until metal is etched. Flush with water, avoiding damage to adjacent areas; or wipe to a smooth finish, let dry, then paint. Where appearance is not important, one coat of OSPHO is recommended to thoroughly coat and etch the metal. Let stand overnight or until completely dry. Brush off any loose powder before painting.
     

    A typical paint application will last much longer after an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coatings attach themselves so tightly that moisture and oxygen cannot attack the metal. OSPHO is water-thin, and therefore goes on easily and covers a larger area than paint. One gallon covers approx. 600 square feet. Historically, best results have been achieved using an oil-base primer and topcoat. Test a trial sample before using under epoxy or latex-base paint applications. OSPHO is equally effective for exterior and interior work alike and is highly recommended as a pre-treatment coating by leading paint manufacturers.

    SOunds good, anyway. . . .

    I like the "low impact" (and low cost) of vinegar, tho. . .

  6. Dave45 | Sep 18, 2005 02:20am | #15

    I've had good luck by washing the galvanized parts in a TSP solution (to remove oils). then priming with Rustoleum primer, then painting. 

    When I didn't use the TSP first, the paint peeled fairly quickly.

  7. Avel | Jul 02, 2011 10:50pm | #18

    Yes you can, and its easy.

    Use Glidden Gripper primer over the galvanized, and then paint. I have done it plenty of times with this prouct and it does not come off. I have painted roofing flashing and drip edges and its still holding up.

    I was told by an older painter that you can also first apply phosphoric acid (metal prep) and then paint.

    The Glidden product works. Its the only primer that says you can use it for that and it will even work over varnish without sanding. Done that too.

    Good luck.

     

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