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Canadian Deck Builders: Lateral load connectors – worth asking for?

patrick1 | Posted in General Discussion on April 9, 2021 12:02pm

I’m getting ready to engage a contractor to build a new deck for our house (I know terrible timing with lumber prices…but I can’t stand the 6′ drop out my back door anymore).

I’ve been reading up a lot on best practices and code requirements on FHB.  Lateral load connectors come up frequently and the Simpson parts seem to be available in Canada.

As far as I can tell though, they don’t seem to be a code requirement here in Ontario where I live (or anywhere else in Canada) and all the contractors I spoke to gave me a puzzled look when I mentioned them.

Our deck will have the ledger attached to a concrete foundation, so these connectors shouldn’t be too difficult to install.  For example, the simpson link below suggests the DTT1Z connector can be simply anchored to the concrete with a wedge anchor:

https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/nfbhma2llk/T-C-DECKLAT19.pdf?u=cjmyin

Is it worthwhile trying to push deck contractors to install those ties?   

Decks are in high demand now so I’m a bit worried that contractors will refuse the job if we make things too complicated for them.

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  1. catmandeux | Apr 09, 2021 01:18pm | #1

    The Ontario Building Code does not have specfic section for decks. Residential decks must meet the requirements in Part 9 Housing and Small Building.
    You will need a building permit unless it is a free standing deck less than 24" high, not attached to a building, and cannot be used as part of the entrance.
    Be wary of any deck builder that tells you otherwise.

    The building department will check the design for proper attachments prior to issuing the permit. Most have guidelines for homeowners building thier own decks. Check your local municipality building department website.

    I'm not aware of a requirement for the lateral load ties in the current building code in Ontario. You can certainly print off the deck guide , or the Simpson application notes, and ask the contractor to install them.
    https://awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf

    1. patrick1 | Apr 09, 2021 04:19pm | #2

      Thanks for the pointers. I had consulted the simpson guide. The contractors we spoke to said they will pull the permits and arrange inspections, etc (I'll verify of course).

      I guess I'm wondering whether it's unreasonable to ask for those lateral load connectors. They don't seem to be required by code and I imagine that most homeowners wouldn't know about them and/or wouldn't ask for them.

  2. catmandeux | Apr 09, 2021 05:00pm | #3

    Not in the code now, but the code is minimum. Properly installed joist hangers can resist some lateral loads, the the deck boards attached to the legder also provide some strength. There are lots of existing decks performing just fine without them.

    Nothing stoping you from installing them, and going beyond what the code requires. It will be a stronger deck if you do. They do provide a known and tested load path for lateral loads, so if you have a larger or taller deck, or one with a roof / pergola subject to wind loading, i would just get them installed.

  3. firedudec56 | Apr 10, 2021 08:35am | #4

    as Catmandeux said "code is minimum" - like a test, you pass the test, but you got a D - build to the code, every thing passes, but you can always do better
    Problem sometimes is getting the local inspector is accept better over the code
    I did a porch with 2x6 12 on center, code at the time was 2x8 16 oc - local inspector didn't want to accept 2x6, wanted the 2x8
    got a page from the lumber book that showed 2x6 12 oc load was 43 lb/ft , 2x8 16 oc was 41 ( assuming I remember right, project was at least 25 yrs ago, no internet, library), photocopied the page, give it to the AHJ, he approved it and the porch looks like it was always part of the house (early 1900s Victorian)
    if you've got a 6 ft "first step" out of the house, go with the "extra" hardware. little additional cost now for significant safety for the life of the deck (and life of the people on the deck...lol)
    good luck

  4. [email protected] | Apr 10, 2021 02:48pm | #5

    I have never seen this on a deck in Ontario but looking at the product, this would appear to be a very good improvement above the "code minimum" as others have mentioned for (what should be) not much cost.

    Sometimes a challenge with contractors, is that the guy you talk to (perhaps the owner/project manager/etc.) is not going to be the guy building the deck, it will just some crew that shows up for a day, and is probably going to build the deck the same as they always have, with minimal communication between any supervisor you may have talked to about installing these anchors.

  5. [email protected] | Apr 10, 2021 02:49pm | #6

    Just another thought: if the deck is 6' up and you get under it afterwards, perhaps install them yourself after they are done?

    1. patrick1 | Apr 12, 2021 03:30pm | #8

      It will actually be a bit lower because we're going to do a couple steps down to avoid having to attach the ledger to the house's brick veneer. I know that Simpson makes products for that now, but with these you still end up putting a big hole in the base wall flashing that cannot be repaired...seems like this would create a risk for water infiltration since brick veneer is certainly not waterproof.

      Even so, I'll probably have at least 3' to work with and I'm not a big guy so I could still add them after the fact.

  6. suburbanguy | Apr 10, 2021 11:11pm | #7

    I'm in Ontario. The city wanted about $700 for a building permit for a deck. I've seen a lot of upgraded decks built in the neigbourhood while walking the back trails and the contractors aren't getting permits because the decks are so obviously not to code. Decks 8-10 feet off the ground with 4x4 posts and no diagonal bracing.
    The original builder/developer didn't get a permit and I was told by the city it was because occupancy had already been granted. Even that deck had about 18 code infractions.--That is why I checked with the city.
    No thanks. I'm not a sucker.
    wrt lateral load connectors, they are not required here. Put them on yourself if you want. Is the rim joist going to rip off? Do you get 20 people out on your deck dancing a swaying to music? Most decks fail because of rot. Protecting the substructure with something like Grace Vycor membrane is very important.

    1. patrick1 | Apr 12, 2021 03:38pm | #10

      That's interesting. Here in Ottawa, the permits aren't super expensive and all the contractors noted - without me prompting - that a permit would be required. Sounds like whatever city you live in perhaps doesn't understand that expensive permits lead to dangerous decks.

      1. suburbanguy | Apr 12, 2021 06:05pm | #11

        That's only the half of it. The deck is 5 feet off the ground and overlooks the neighbour's yard. I wanted to erect a visual barrier on the deck.--a lattice wall. Now the whole thing would be too high and they wanted another $800 for a variance application and approval by neighbours.... $1500 for a 180 sq foot deck!
        I simply use a movable one by Yardistry that I disassemble and store each winter.
        I cut roll roofing to protect the substructure. It's much cheaper than Vycor.
        I'm in the GTA (In looking for these photos, I saw that I took photos of all of the builder/contractor's code violations on the original deck.)

        1. patrick1 | Apr 12, 2021 08:11pm | #12

          Nice work! ...looks really good.

          What are those metal strips on the joists that I'm looking at?

          Is that part of the roll roofing are are they some type of hidden fastening system?

          1. suburbanguy | Apr 12, 2021 08:34pm | #13

            Hidden fastening system. Boards are fastened from below.

            https://www.homedepot.ca/product/peak-products-45-inch-durable-steel-hidden-deck-fastener-in-black/1000660410

  7. patrick1 | Apr 12, 2021 03:35pm | #9

    Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I think I'll ask the contractors to do it if their willing and familiar with them. Otherwise I'll just do it myself afterwards...I have all the necessary tools afterall and it shouldn't take much time.

  8. suburbanguy | Apr 12, 2021 08:47pm | #14

    Had a guy in to drill the holes. Mixed the concrete and all. 10 inch Sonotubes in 14 inch holes as I remember. Tape a gr. garbage bag on the end of the tube. Put a few shovels of concrete in it. Lift the tube a little to let the concrete flow out wider than the tube. Voila! A large base to prevent uplift during the winter. Took pictures of it all to prove it was to code. I think it was something like $60 per hole. Best money I ever spent. That was his sole business. Drilling fence posts. I supplied the Sonotubes.

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