I am working on a garage and need to replace the sill which has rotted out. The building is built from 2X4’s (not 3.5 X 1.5’s). Can’t find a source for material. What should I do?
Same story last week. Needed to replace some roof boards 1×8’s. Nobody carries them. Solutions?
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When I have to replace 1x8 roof decking I either use 1x8 rough sawn spruce (spring board) for small areas, or just use rips of 3/4" CDX if I've got more area to cover.
As far as the 2X4's go... I'm not sure anyone is really even milling them anymore. Use the nominal 2X4's instead and pack out where you need to.
If you're really up to it, you could rip and plane your own, but I can't imagine it would ever be worth the hassle unless they were exposed or something.
Buy some 6 x 6, a table saw, and a planer and make your own.
Stack rips of 1/2" ply on top of the new PT 2x4's.
-- J.S.
You are better off replacing the sill with pressure treated lumber and a rip of 1/2" plywood on the top.
But if you really want nominal 2x4s any local mill will have them although usually not kiln dried. If you go that route staple 30# tar paper to the underside.
It struck me today - why not glue together two 5/4x6's PT and rip that down to 4 inch?
> It struck me today - why not glue together two 5/4x6's PT and rip that down to 4 inch?
Depends on what kind of tree it's from. If it's Doug Fir, ripping after you glue it up will cut off the shallow treated surface. Ripping first and gluing to the new surface should work. SYP we don't have around here, but I've heard that the treatment soaks right thru it.
-- J.S.
What is SYP?
Southern Yellow Pine
But if you don't glue them together properly, you end up with the performance of two 5/4x4's rather than a 2x4
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
> But if you don't glue them together properly, you end up with the performance of two 5/4x4's rather than a 2x4
True, but this is a sill plate for a garage. Horizontal shear isn't a problem. Stacking a rip of 1/2" ply on top of new PT would work fine, too.
-- J.S.
How about stacking 2 treated 2x4's and trimming the bottom of the studs which probably have some rot as well? Could fur out the 4" direction with 1/2" ply or rip down a couple treated 2x6's to match stud depth.
I thought he needed studs. You're right ... for a sill, stack'em with PL and nails.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
I take it you're not somewhere that has a sawmill or two nearby? I'd have a local mill cut you some white oak for sills, full 2x4. Green or dry, they'll last you as long as any PT stuff. If you're in the middle of nowhere and they've never heard of white oak, good substitutes are black locust (even harder to get), cypress, redwood, or you could even go buy a PT 6X6 and have a local portable mill owner rip it for you.
Same for the roof boards. Find a local mill.
I called around my local lumber yards. No luck.
Aren't most sawmills close to the forest the lumber is harvested from?
I thought my idea of ripping two 5/4's was a good one. I can't cut a 6x6 on my saw, and I don't want to think of the cost of using oak.
Set up infeed and outfeed supports, cut half way through, flip the board over, keep the same face against the fence, and rip again. People do it all the time.
Even better, tell the DW you just have to get a bandsaw. My 14" Delta 1/2 hp will cut a 6-1/2" high board almostr effortlessly. Bandsaws are fun to use ... almost zero chance of kickback.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
not "almost zero chance of kickback"
it IS zero..
he could also use a circ saw and 4 rips to cut a 4x6 into a 2x4..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Not PT, but most lumber yards around here do carry rough cut full 2X8s that could be ripped in half.
If you do not use PT, certainly create a break between to masonry and the wood to prevent 'rising damp'. Used to use snow & ice type membrane, but I like the new PVC roll flashing for this. Thinner than membrane, cheaper than copper, and does not react with the AQT. Can't remember the brand. Bought it at Lowes.
If you go with standard lumber, not too difficult to find wood 1/2 inch thick.
The problem with using plywood to make up the difference is that it is not actually 1/2 inch thick (15/32, or whatever). Perhaps close enough.
You could also just place 1/2 inch blocks under each stud instead of a continuous piece.