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Discussion Forum

can’t fix my garden valve?

carbon | Posted in General Discussion on May 3, 2006 04:21am

My almost-new 3/4″ Arrowhead garden valve was leaking so I removed the packing nut so I could check out the washer and seat. When I tried to unscrew the stem, I realized the hole was too small — no way it could possibly come out. Instead, the faucet seems to have been made out of two pieces.

Anyone seen such a thing? Is this normal, or did I buy the wrong part?

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  1. User avater
    BillHartmann | May 03, 2006 04:38pm | #1

    What is a "garden valve"? Is it the same as a yard hydrant? Or frostproof through the wall faucet?

    But standard compression faucet as a stem nut which has packing under it and a separate bonnet or faucet cap which holds the stem. You have to remove that to get the stem out.

    Here is a picture of one. But it is a shower vavle so that the proportions are much different.

    http://www.stemdoctor.com/2_and_3_handle_bath_and_shower_faucet_repair.htm

    You need to remove part #8.

    The one shown has the hex shown on the "top" of the bonnet, but more commonly they hex part will be on the bottom.

    1. carbon | May 09, 2006 04:40pm | #3

      Thanks for the explanation. My plumbing book wasn't real clear on the difference.I almost said "hose bib" (bibb?, bibcock?), but I wasn't sure and the label said "garden valve". What makes it different is that it is meant to mount on a vertical pipe.Anyways...http://www.arrowheadbrass.com seems to be their website, click on products, then "bent nose garden valves". (javascript required).

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | May 09, 2006 10:22pm | #4

        Never seen any like that.Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like they are built "backwards" from the more common styles that I am familar with.It appears that the instead of a bonnet at the top (stem end) that unscrews whole top (valve body and stem) unscrews leave the seat on the supply pipe.

        1. DanH | May 09, 2006 11:04pm | #5

          Yeah, that would be my take too. Not sure what the point is, vs a regular sillcock, other than maybe it allows a hair more flow.

          If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

          1. carbon | May 10, 2006 01:12pm | #6

            You guys are both right. It did unscrew, just took a lot more force than I had tried before. It's got a huge port. If the seat ever needs grinding, I'll probably use a sharpening stone as my little seat grinder isn't going to get the job done. I guess this is another advantage -- taken apart, the seat sticks out above everything else.Thanks!Edit: on second thought, maybe it would be better to clog up a file or sandpaper...

            Edited 5/10/2006 6:15 am by carbon

  2. webby | May 03, 2006 05:23pm | #2

    I don't know about normal but I think it's cheap construction. I have seen the same thing before too. I can't remember the brand.

    I bought a couple 1/2" sweat on sill cock valves,  nothin' fancy, when I went to remove the stem to sweat them on the pipe, the stem would'nt come tru the small hole in the valve body. After looking at it and thinking about it there is no way to repair the valve washer if it leaks, the end of the stem where the washer sits is to large to fit thru the hole in the valve body. I don't know how they made the friggin' thing.

    Back to the box store they went then Iwent to a neighborhood (real) hardware and bought another pair worked great.

    Webby


    Edited 5/3/2006 10:25 am ET by webby



    Edited 5/3/2006 10:26 am ET by webby

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