Replies

1. 
   apiersma | Nov 05, 2008 07:23pm | #1

   I'm doing the same thing right now with my cape. I used hardi siding "perfection shingles" with a factory paint job. For trim I used Tuff Board from HD, which is wood and plastic. Its similar to aztek, but cheaper. I plan on leaving it raw, but I still need to find a filler that blends well. I didn't rabbit the trim, instead I used caulk that was color matched to the siding. It looks good.

1. 
   Nick11570 | Nov 07, 2008 12:38am | #3

   Thanks apiersma.

2. 
   enduringcharm | Nov 05, 2008 08:22pm | #2

   Nick:

   Azek can be left "raw" without trouble, but do keep in mind that it has serious expansion and contraction needs based on temperature.  You have to plan that into your design and your construction.

   I'd encourage you to consider the real wood siding again.  Done right, it should last longer than you'll own the home.  It's the trim which usually takes the beating.  Otherwise, the hardi products are very good.

   John

1. 
   Nick11570 | Nov 07, 2008 01:09am | #4

   John,

   Re: Azek - can you give me an idea of its expansion/contraction in the real world?  Also, any suggestions on filling nail holes that will blend well?

   Re: cedar - you are prob right.  one issue is the uneven weathering that occurs, creating a terrible look in the short run that sometimes extends for years.  on the other hand, i know a house that has real cedar...looked like it was stained from the factory from day 1...and the look has not changed at all in over a year.  do you know of a good product like this? and how long is a factory stain job expected to last?

   Thanks very much.

1. 
   enduringcharm | Nov 07, 2008 02:09am | #5

   Nick:

   Well, the expansion and contraction will vary depending on length and how the Azek is attached, etc.  Here in Jersey where the temps can vary as much as 90 degrees between seasons, I've seen 18 foot azek move 5/8 of an inch over length, even though it is thoroughly nailed.  The point is to allow for this change in your design.  Don't pin the ends together and expect them to stay that way in areas where water would infiltrate and cause issues. I did some window trim in azek not long ago and I used butt joints, since miter joints would be a nightmare.  I've used it to wrap porch and deck posts, but I only nail two sides to allow for movement.  I use overlapping miter joints when putting up fascia so that a gap will be disguised.  Just use common sense, that's all.

   As for the nail holes, you can use a vinyl caulk that doesn't yellow in the sun.

   I've never tried a factory stain on shakes or shingles, although I've used it on clapboards.  Whoever does the staining, you just want to make sure both sides are covered.  I prefer at least one coat to be brushed rather than sprayed.  If you want the natural wood look--like the grey faded color of houses in Nantucket--then time will do it as long as you have heavy sun.  If you are in a wooded or shaded area you might be better off with a solid stain that can be renewed.  There are products to protect against UV and water, but that will preclude the grey weathered color.  If you want the same color as when the cedar is first put up to stay--good luck.  That is a losing battle.  You're better off in that case picking a transparent stain (cabot, etc.) that matches the natural unweathered wood.

   J. 

2. 
   RedfordHenry | Nov 07, 2008 03:07am | #6

   Also, any suggestions on filling nail holes that will blend well?

   There's a product called "Bond and Fill" that is made specifically for PVC trim.  I haven't used it yet, but have heard excellent reviews here and elsewhere.  I plan to get some in the near future (if my new Andersen windows ever show up).

1. 
   Bing187 | Nov 07, 2008 05:43am | #7

           Good tip that I picked up here; white crayola crayon for the holes...rub on, wipe off. Matches dead nut. Make sure you use ss finish nails...The galvys will leave the occasional streak.

   Bing