Many moons ago I got a Matsushata 36 tooth carbide thin kerf for a Skil 6 1/2″ wormdrive…been a good all around blade. Looking for similar in 7 1/4″. What do you like? Anything new and cool?
EDIT: Hmmm, Prospero blanked the brand name I wrote, musta thought I swore. Replace the second “a” with an “i” for manual workaround.
PJ
Whatever you can do or dream you can,
Begin it
Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. Goethe
Edited 11/1/2004 5:33 am ET by Peter J
Replies
thin kerf marathon
Pete: Try using the Freud Diablo 71/4" blade . You won't't be disappointed. I've used it before and it will even cut thru nails see link below
.http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/index1.html#woodworking
mashush*ta still makes blades. Coastal Tool sells that brand.
I like the Freud TKR303 - finest cut from a circ saw I've ever gotten, better than more expensive blades with more teeth. I use it to trim doors, etc., where the cut quality is important. I assume since you mention 36T on a 6.5" blade that cut quality is what you're looking for.
Here's a link for the TKR303.
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
OPPeter: Let's see what the bluenoses do w/ the name of a mushroom: ####!
People w/ dirty little minds make me want to puke!
Don
If you spell shiitake correctly, the censor doesn't have a problem with it.
Guess my Japanese really sucks.
DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Well, I hope you don't mind the public correction. I just wanted to make sure we didn't miss any good mushroom recipes because you got disgusted with the censor.
I been using the Blu-Maks blades from Makita.
I like em
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
Unc: Not at all! It was downright embarassing that I should have messed it up. Japanese is a language made up essentially of consonant/vowel combinations, mostly in pairs, except for the vowels which can stand on their own. The word shi*ake is almost an impossible combination. It really takes the second i to make sense. So it is sorta like two words - shi-itake.
Woe is me, oh, woe is me!
DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Marathon...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Marathon is my choice too. I keep looking for a better framing blade but I can't find one.
I wish marathon would put out a blade with less teeth however...and a hair more set.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
I used to buy Matsush*ta saw blades at Economy lumber. They are great blades, just too expensive to use if you find yourself cutting a lot of nail embedded lumber (on accident). 7 1/4 inch blades were readily availible.
karl
Marathon
Yeah I like the Marathon's too. Even better is the Marathon black PT blade... great for year round framing. 24 tooth is my preference. Second choice is the Dewalt (believe it or not) 24T framing blade. Cuts isn't quite as good as the Marathon, but the carbide is great....takes a few more nails than the Marathon's will before crapping out. I buy whichever is on sale at the time I'm looking for 'em, and I buy at least a dozen at a time.
Marathon blades all the way. Scarey sharp and very nice cut quality. Slightly better cut quality can be had with the diablo blades but the blade is a little too squirrly in a free hand rip than I am used to with the marathons. So for striaght edge cutting in my pc saw, I like the diablos but for general purpose in my skil saw, I use marathons.
Rob Kress
Marathon. I save the old ones and cut through comp roofing and anything else with them.
I'll send you my old one Rob...You don't mind paying shipping for blades with only two teeth left do you?
I find it amazing at how few teeth you need to keep going.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
I can whack that plumb cut with no line and no teeth, with most of my table gone, and squintin with one eye closed.
I like the Matsuchida 36 tooth. They sell a less expensive framing blade, too. I'm not crazy about their 10" blades, but the 7+1/4 are the best I've ever used.
Get some safety glasses you fool!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Blue
Aint it the truth? half a tooth and they keep on chuggin' through. some times you have to bend the stray tooth back in line though when you get those low RPM nail hits.. You can keep your spares, Blue, i have at least 20. My partner keeps asking me why i keep them all. ;-) How bout that election?? Democracy is safe for four more years...
Edited 11/4/2004 12:00 am ET by robzan
I agree Rob...half a tooth will still cut wood!
I'm happy that the election is over and that I was wrong about Kerry fighint and suing. My hats are off to him and his party.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Blue
If you don't use a chalkline, how do you get your first row of sheating straight on those long runs of roof? If you are not perfectly lined up with your wall (parallel with your ridge) the valley might not be the "perfect" angle that you pre-cut the valley sheeting. ( along with other reasons ) You know how much room you have on those steep pitched 2x valley boards. Not much room for error. I usually snap a line all the way from the end of the building through to the valley 4' up hill from my bottom start point (facia board or center of bird block line) I lay the first full sheet close to the valley, even overlaping it some what with the bottom corner. Then i will measure along the chalk line to the center of the valley(perpendicular to the rafters), and along the 4' edge of the sheet to the center of the valley if the corner of my piece runs over the valley. If not, i measure over from the bottom of the sheet to the center of the valley. I cut my fill piece, try it out in place, then use it to scribe my next pieces and cut them in gang as you do. this way i know that the angle will work even if i didn't frame the house. I got this from working on tracts and from working jobs that were not "perfect". Also, i eyeball the valley and make sure it is straight before starting to sheet.
Rob, I was taught the chalkline method and occasionally I still use it. In fact, just yesterday, I used it because of the extenuating circumstances...I didn't have any "bottom" to start from! To alleviate any potential problems, I measured 12' 1" down from the top and snapped that line. I then placed a couple of nails on that line to bump against and started laying the osb one span from the gable end.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Rob, on "normal" situations, where I have a reasonably long overhang, I don't use a chalkline. Instead, I trust that the overhang will be straight (if it isn't, I straighten it before I get started). I then place nails precisely on the center of each truss layout...at the outside corner of the fascia. These "bumper" nails will keep the osb aligned as I lay each sheet. They also serve as an aiming point for nailing purposes. Addtionally, they help keep stray cords, hoses and kickers from drooping down and always pulling away from me (cords and hoses).
The pic shows my bumper nails. That particular overhang has not been pulled up and fastened yet. We set that overhang to theoretical measurements calculated from truss drawings (our trusses weren't available when that wall/overhang was fabricated). We did not end up with a perfet fit, but we adequately was able to make it work.
(Edit: the picture is posted on the prvious post)
Blue
Warning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Edited 11/4/2004 10:12 am ET by blue_eyed_devil
Blue
Nice picture. So you pre-fabbed the whole soffit before you stacked the trusses, huh? That is nice. I like your bumper nail idea, especially the part about aiming the nailing at it. I usually have to stand on the edge and look over to find the nails going through the facia into the raft. tail and start my nailing from that! I miss framing nice big customs. Since i went into business, i have been doing mostly room additions and remodels. They are fun too, but you have to pretty much match the rest of the house, so my creativity is limited.
My hats off to kerry and the democrats too, the concession speech was very classy and i thank God it wasn't a big, nasty court thing. RZ
Yes Rob, we preframe a much as makes sense.
Heres a shot of that same wall just after we stood it up.
Over the years, I've become quite adept at prefabbing the right stuff in the right amount and order. My goal is to be able to quickly and safely lean over the wall, from the inside and finish everything! I hit that mark most often.
Since we've gotten the skytrak, we've become quite a bit more liberal on what we leave for later.
Most of my "systems" went through a re-birth after I started using air tools. In the olden days, it was critical to prefab as much as possible in order to alleviate the necessity of nailing upside down into loose parts. Air guns have changed that equation considerably. I see too many old style carpenters not taking full advantage of their tools.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Blue, your my kinda of framer,
I framed like you, even doing a hip roof w/brick(1x12) box turning the corners
w/fascia(1x8)and soffit(12") Doing it laying on the ground standing it up and for the
most part you are done w/cornice. All that was left was toenailing
the rafter ends into the sub fascia after straighting the cornice line(up&down).
I noticed that (what it looked like any way) on that last picture you only had your
rafter ends cut to a horizontal cut sitting on top of the sub fascia and what looked
like one nail holding it up. Is that okay to do it that way? Every thing I did
was stick framed not trusses.
Even stood walls up with the chimmney chase built onto the
wall. Also stood complete gables(siding, soffit, sub fascia, fascia) up when the rafter
sits on top of the double plate(built laying down on top of joist ). Does any of
this make any sense?
I don't know if this link will work but this is a picture you posted with the round
wall and the gable standing up. I was wondering why you don't finish your cornice
out to the end of your rafter?
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&guid=26697B4F-E689-4309-8413-0FB8BBF2D683&frames=no
Edited 11/4/2004 5:21 pm ET by butch
Butch...every thing made sense even thought the picture didn't come up.
We typically do finish the soffits in total, but those were/are cut back because they will be receiving a flared, curved barge system. Additionally the brick will be doubled on them.
We too put the chimneys on, if it makes sense too. I rarely put the gables on in one piece any more. I prefer to fly them in. Heres a picture of one that we just finished on the sawhorses!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Uh oh! I can see it comin now "Boogerin w Blue" all over again:-)
<every thing made sense even thought the picture didn't come up>
You have to paste it into your browser to get it to work, but all it was
is the last picture you posted with the front of the house with the
round staircase.
Man I sure could learn a lot from you, you almost make me wish I
was still framing. I really did enjoy it, but like they say" ifn you
can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen" and it gets to
hot for me in memphis
Butch, I forgot to explain.
I started cutting the tails level many years ago. I spike through the top and securely nail the plywood every 6' at the bottom. There is normally a good connection on the higher pitched roofs. This technique works very well especially when flying the trusses..specifically when sending in hip units withallthe jacks installed.
Here's a picture of a different gable truss being sent to it's final resting place.
The other gable on the saw horses is ready to go too.
(Edit alert!. That 6' up there in the second paragraph should be 6 inches!)
blue
Warning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
Edited 11/4/2004 10:10 pm ET by blue_eyed_devil
Blue
That is awesome. Do you frame exclusively? I remember vaguely the days of no nail gun, starting all your nails on stuff befory you lifted up your board to nail it. I remember hand nailing off roof decks too as an apprentice. It sucked. I can hardly build without a nail gun now..The Deluge is too slow. That is your sky track? That would be great! I have worked with them on tracts and they are almost as good as a crane. What do those things cost...? RZ
Rob, at this time we only frame. We don't have the personality for remodeling....could you imagine me tossing some homeowner up his own stairs because he wants me to put extra bridging in?!!!!
Its not uncommon for crews to specialize in framing and most framers now have a sky trak onsite. Ironically, I used to believe that the crane was better, but I now will admit that I'd never consider framing a house again without both! If I had to choose only one, I'd take the Sky trak and rent a crane for trusses.
I can't remember exactly, but the Skytrak was about 90k including a 12 jib (essential for handling trusses), a bucket (helps control the mud, pushes snow and debris, and grades the lot), and we added a articulating boom attachment (costly...3k..) which is quite useful for getting under loads and delivering loads at angles up to 45 degrees.
I remember VIVIDLY pounding the entire house, including 8d screw shanked, blunt tipped deck nails into frozen souther yellow pine joist. YOu had to be a real man to drive them home, but theres no better teacher than four straight hours of deck nailing at top speed! I learned a lot about systems right there stooped over nailing.....we never let our knees touch and if a nail head protruded, we'd have to buy a case of beer! I use to slide down most roofs on my rear, setting and slamming ( I loved 6d commons....they were easy swingers) and if you didn't set the nail, you were going to ventilate your rear end.
To this day, I know that all apprentices should hand drive till they learn how to handle the hammer. My main man Ben wasn't allowed to use a gun till he could prove to me that he knew how to hammer like a man.
Ahhhh the good old days...
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos
Additionally, don't take any political advice from me. I'm just a parrot for the Republican talking points. I get all my news from Rush Limbaugh and Fox and Friends (they are funny...try them out)!
WE like the freud diablo 7 14. It stays sharper longer. Another good blade is the Timberline. They can bought at http://www.toolstoday.com. I bought a box of 25 and got a good price break. It is an Amana blade. I have the Porter Cable saw boss which takes a 6 inch blade and Timberline makes a blade just for that saw.
James Hart
One more blade that really like, but forgot about, is the Tenryu 24T. Sometimes I can get them for a little over nine bucks.... I snap 'em up when I see that deal. They also make a PT framing blade that is nice but a little more pricey.